oil pan gasket

[Dodgecrawler2011]

Cant seem to get a straight answer on this. Do I have to loosen the motor mounts to get the oil pan off. Also do I have to remove the pick up tube. Its a 92 4x4 5 speed. I dont really have access to a cherry picker thats why I ask

[dazedandconfused]

I know on my 2wd there is no way you could get the pan off without lifting the engine. I still doubt it would come off then.

[matthewh]

Yes, to do it properly, you have to loosen the motor mounts, and disconnect a bunch of stuff to pick the motor up enough to remove the oilpan. BC847 has a good writeup over on DTR, I believe its in his twins thread.

Now.....

When I did mine last fall, I jacked the frame up until the front tires were off the ground, braced the front crossmember under the motor mounts, and cut out the section of cross member. Did the oil pan, and rewelded the cross member back in, fishplated and boxed it. My truck is a '92 4x4 Auto

If your truck is in nice shape, I wouldnt recommend the above method

[Dodgecrawler2011]

Plan on doin mine this weekn is it safe to jack front of motor up with the crank pulley

[BC847]

is it safe to jack front of motor up with the crank pulley

You know your luck better than anybody. Around my house, it'd wobble at best when I was done.

Ya need to lift it by the hoop at the alternator/thermostat housing.



IIRC . . ..
- Lift frame till the front axle is in full droop.
- Remove the bottom engine mount nuts.
- Remove radiator fan shroud.
- Disconnect the charge-air plumbing at one end or the other (if you think you need to).
- Disconnect lower radiator hose.
- Lift the engine a little.
- Drain oil. (Duh!)
- Remove pan bolts.
- Drop pan down so as to remove the oil pick-up tube's single mount bolt as well as the two flange bolts. (Don't forget a gasket for that). Let tube fall into pan.






- You'll need to lift the engine a little at a time so as to allow the back of the oil pan to clear the engine/transmission adapter plate. Don't think it outlandish to remove the rear valve-cover cause it's against the firewall, and you need just a tiny-weeny bit more . . . . .

Head against firewall . . .



- With that, you can start pulling the pan out the rear of the engine.




-* You most likely will need to roll the engine over a little so as to have the front of the pan clear some crankshaft throws.

I've got to replace mine as well. It leaks like a sieve at the front. I've got a new one right behind me leaning on the wall.

** I would recommend you consider . . ..
- Cleaning the engine block flange so you can glue the new gasket to it.
- You CAN NOT glue the new gasket to the oil pan's flange as it's Teflon coated along with the rest of the pan's interior.




- If you insist on putting the gasket on the pan, you'll have a fit trying to get all the bolts started and the front wont sit right and tear where it crosses over the crankshaft.

- And %*#g leak.


Just say'in . . . .
-

[Dodgecrawler2011]

Thank ya I was actually looking for this exact thread. And I just put in fresh antifreeze too. Dam

[Alec]

Slippery pan flange -- DOH. That explains the trouble I had . . .

I recommend everything that Dave said above, EXCEPT, I took the two bolts out of the transmission mount plate (not the ones through the rubber mounts, the other two) and actually slid the whole assembly forward a little bit to get the clearance I needed @ the firewall. Depending on your lift set up, a couple of chunks of 2x4 to go flat between the engine mounts and the crossmember and hold the engine up might be handy too.

I ended up lifting the transmission UP about 3/4 inch to get enough clearance between the axle and the flywheel housing, but more axle droop would have probably solved the problem. As I recall, the hard part is not positioning the assembly to get the pan in and out, it is the 36 screws & getting dripped on.

Alec