valve spring change ?

[jethro]

I was planning on doing a 3200 rpm gov. spring. Would I want to replace the valve springs with stronger ones ?
60 pound over stock OK ?

Also - if I compress the spring and remove the keepers- how do I prevent the valve from sliding downward ? I can bring the piston up to TDC- but I don't think that will hold them up all the way...... When you go to compress the new spring to put the keeper back in- what holds the valve stem all the way up to get the keeper in ? (with head ON )

Tim

[RCCUMMINS89]

The piston will hold the valve up.

What are the future mods to the truck going to be? 60#s will be fine unless you are planning on high boost and high rpm. Like 50psi + or 4000rpm +.


We've had absolutely great reviews on the Toxic Diesel valve springs, and they are the most affordable too. If you need more than 60s you'll want to go with the Hamilton 165

[jethro]

since I have a stock ford f-350 clutch I - AND - I want good mileage- and it will be all around daily driver/work truck/suv type
function- if I was to do any increases I think I would want them to be on the conservative side - I am guessing 200hp-250hp
max (do they even make injectors that go up that little I will not be pulling big loads- or mudding or anything unusual.
Might drive in the mountains and want to have enough power to drive up the steep 7 Degree grades on the big roads ( like fancy gap on I-77 at nc-va border) with enough guts to maintain 65 and have some headroom leftover.
(have 6 speed ZF-6) Maybe do a better atomizing injector later on after I have run it awhile......?

If I do a 3200 spring I don't want any possibility of a damaging interaction between the valves and pistons...... and I would expect that stronger springs might increase the HP a little in the middle RPM ranges where the sag might otherwise start.
(im not expecting to need to go over 2200-2500 rpm- but Im just guessing on that----- )

I have the engine still on the stand- valve covers off and about to order the a1 17-22 studs- would be easy time to do springs
looks like....
It has only 50K miles on it since new(1993) - was going to NOT take head up - keep existing gasket. Does that sound reasonable? Don't really want to have the head resurfaced if I can help it ! (is that normaly needed from the head being completely released from all the torque from the headbolts ?- that is does the flat underside become a new shape when released- and then need a cut ?

Sorry that's a lots of questions/info- just hoping if Im about to do anything stupid someone will flag me on it before I do it!

The springs you suggest I will go check rite now- thank you ! (have to make a spring compressor I guess)
I just made some for Lycoming aircraft engines- they go through the rocker pin- but they have 2 rocker bearing supports
where the cummins has a single one in the center. wouldn't want to load only one side on that.....

thanks-
tim

PS saw a guy on youtube inject 50 psi air into injector hole to hold valves up. rather not take injectors out for that if pistons
are close enough at TDC to to valves to be able to get keepers back into valve stems. !

[PToombs]

There is a small compressor that fits well with a star shaped handle, I think it's a Lisle brand. I know Genos Garage has them for a reasonable price. Make sure it's on tdc for whatever cylinder you are doing and it will be fine. I've done several and had no problems. The valve will only drop a little, like less than a 1/4 inch. If you do use the 60lb springs, I put them in the compressor, then screwed them in a little to get some preload before compressing to squeeze them down far enough to get the keepers back on.
No way would I do air. What happens if the hose comes off or you lose air? Valve drops in and then you're pulling the head anyways.

[jethro]

yes- I tend to agree that air alone in the chamber trust would I NOT ! (Yoda accent)
I have genos catalog- will look up leslie tool

Thank You !

Tim

[ellis93]

There is a small compressor that fits well with a star shaped handle, I think it's a Lisle brand. I know Genos Garage has them for a reasonable price. Make sure it's on tdc for whatever cylinder you are doing and it will be fine. I've done several and had no problems. The valve will only drop a little, like less than a 1/4 inch. If you do use the 60lb springs, I put them in the compressor, then screwed them in a little to get some preload before compressing to squeeze them down far enough to get the keepers back on.
No way would I do air. What happens if the hose comes off or you lose air? Valve drops in and then you're pulling the head anyways.

Each to thier own but I've used air to hold them forever....in gas stuff thru the spark plug hole,never had an issue. On our engines I'd just get it to tdc and get it done.

[PToombs]

In a gasser I'd use air also. I have a tool I made from a sparkplug for that purpose. In a diesel it's faster to use the TDC method.

[ellis93]

In a gasser I'd use air also. I have a tool I made from a sparkplug for that purpose. In a diesel it's faster to use the TDC method.

I just use the compression tester hose....it'll plug right into a "m" style quick coupler.

[PToombs]

But I don't have a compression tester, unless you count the rubber end one for a Briggs and Stratton.

[Richie O]

But I don't have a compression tester, unless you count the rubber end one for a Briggs and Stratton.

Your truck is so worn out it doesn't have any compression to check anyway.

[jethro]

Got my 60# springs from Toxic Diesel- arrived in 2 days - Utah to Florida - USPS flat rate box. (yeah)
hoping for A1 stud set maybe tomorrow.
May build a home brew spring compressor -
tim