Another VE Injection Pump Reseal Thread(How to)

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Another VE Injection Pump Reseal Thread(How to)

Postby rustybottoms88 » Mon Nov 27, 2017 2:11 pm

I had a hard time finding a complete thread that detailed how to reseal the VE pump. Most all of the older good threads on various sites have the pictures missing. I know if you have little to no experience with these pumps it can be intimidating when it comes time to reseal them. I can say its not as complicated as you might think.
This guys blog was probably the most helpful to me. http://rotordesign.com/1993cummins/category/bosch-ve-pump/page/14/
I want to try and document my experience here. I didn't get as many pictures as I would of liked but here goes nothing.
You will need a rebuild kit and here is the one for the VE pump on Dodge First Gens. Be sure to lube up all your seals and orings with oil or diesel fuel. I used STP oil treatment and it worked great.
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First off you will need to remove the injection pump from the truck this is pretty straight forward and is covered very well on the interwebs.
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You can get to the majority if not all of the seals without completely disassembling the pump. The first part I replaced was the power valve seals. You will need a 10mm open end wrench and I think the small end of the hard line is a 8mm.
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Here it is removed from the pump.
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Remove the hard line and the old orings and then just match up the old orings with the new orings.
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After the powervalve the next easiest seals to get to are the KSB valve seals. There will be one of these on each side. Careful, there is a spring under the cap.
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Here it is with the cap removed on the opposite side of the pump from the previous picture.
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Next I did the gov shaft seal. I was perplexed on how to do this one for awhile. The link i referred to earlier the guy didn't really say how to get to the seal. I did find a thread later that explained that once you take the retaining nut and washer off you turn the shaft out just far enough to expose the oring.
This is the shaft prepped and ready to put the new oring on. I used the tape trick to cover up all exposed threads to protect the new orings from being damaged.
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Next is the main shaft front seal. I made a seal puller out of an old flat screw driver, only after I stabbed myself with a ice pick. This screw driver works great it popped right out. No need for complete disassembly!
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Here it is ready for the new seal.
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I installed the new front mains shaft seal using a 7/8 deep well socket and a small ball peen hammer.
Here is the new seal all installed.
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I changed out the throttle shaft seal. Be sure to make note of and mark where the throttle shaft is indexed in the housing. The throttle shaft pushes down and out of the top of the top cover. Its pretty straight forward. Watch a few videos on utube that document changing out the gov spring. It will give you a better idea of how the top comes off. Just know that you will have to unhook one side of the gov spring to take the top off. Don't force it off!
Throttle shaft with old oring.
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With the top off the pump I took the liberty of installing a 366 gov spring while I was at it.
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Now for me the hardest part was replacing the pump head seal. It wasn't really difficult I just didn't know what I was doing but once you get the head off and figure out how all the parts go together its just a matter of getting the head back on with everything else staying in its proper place and going in the correct holes. Here you can see there are 4 (If i recall correctly) torx bolts that hold the head on. Pay attention to the orientation of parts as you slowly pull the head off. There is a shaft that goes in the middle of the head and it will try to come out with it. Just reach in and push it back down into the pump as you lift the head off.
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Here is what the inside of your pump should look like.
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Odds are when you pulled the head off everything came out of place. The shaft is should be attached via a socket that is in the side of the shaft to a small ball on the part you see in this picture that is black and has the numbers 4180 on it. ( You can see I am very technical :mrgreen: )
You will need to mate these back together before you put the head back on.
Here is a picture of the socket in the side of the shaft. I filled it with grease to help hold the ball in place as I put the head back on the pump
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There is also a shim under the shaft and make sure it is in place. Some grease will help hold things in place as you try to put the head back on. The link to the blog I referred to is better at explaining this step then I am. Altho he does more of a complete disassembly of the pump then I do.
There are two spring that will fall out of the head when you initially remove it from the pump. Some grease will help hold them in place as you put the head back on the pump.
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From here just line everything up. The springs with the pins in the middle of them will fit into the two boss on the top of the end. It took me a few trys to get it back together but just be patient and take your time.
As you put the head back on go slow and make sure the bore that the head is going down into and the green head seal is well lubed. I may edit this as I rember things. If anyone else has suggestions for changes or if you can make clarifications please feel free to chime in.
rustybottoms88
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Re: Another VE Injection Pump Reseal Thread(How to)

Postby BC847 » Mon Nov 27, 2017 4:29 pm

Nice!! 8)

Added to The Sticky. ;)
David

1993 12mm VE Fueled W250 CC, Green
12.67 @ 103.35
Your basic farm truck ;)
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Re: Another VE Injection Pump Reseal Thread(How to)

Postby PToombs » Mon Nov 27, 2017 4:59 pm

Good write up, simple yet clear. 8)
FYI, most of the pictures are gone because Photobucket has started charging, and if you don't pay your pics don't show.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Re: Another VE Injection Pump Reseal Thread(How to)

Postby rustybottoms88 » Tue Nov 28, 2017 6:45 am

PToombs wrote:Good write up, simple yet clear. 8)
FYI, most of the pictures are gone because Photobucket has started charging, and if you don't pay your pics don't show.

Ya they have ruined threads that I had years invested in. I didn't want to pay there ransom. :bom: I have started to redo some of them but it's a lot of work!
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Re: Another VE Injection Pump Reseal Thread(How to)

Postby rustybottoms88 » Tue Nov 28, 2017 6:51 am

PToombs wrote:Good write up, simple yet clear. 8)
FYI, most of the pictures are gone because Photobucket has started charging, and if you don't pay your pics don't show.

Thanks. Glad to hear you say that. Sometimes I know what I am trying to say but others do not. :?:
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Re: Another VE Injection Pump Reseal Thread(How to)

Postby rustybottoms88 » Tue Nov 28, 2017 6:54 am

BC847 wrote:Nice!! 8)

Added to The Sticky. ;)

Great. Thanks I hope it will help others. I was able to track down all the info I needed but it took some time. Maybe this will be a thread where one can find the information in one place. If there is anything I need to clarify or add to it feel free to let me know.
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Re: Another VE Injection Pump Reseal Thread(How to)

Postby monoblock » Thu Mar 03, 2022 11:09 am

Thank you all for the time you take to post photos and sources of repair projects. And a pox on photobucket for burying our previous work in their new fees.

I have a couple of suggestions and questions assuming you plan to keep your 1st Gen for ever.

1. "If one seal is leaking, the rest will fail soon " - so best to remove the entire pump and replace all seals with DGK 121. Is that true/wise ? Who wants to R&R the pump multiple times !! I plan to keep the truck.
2. Given the complexity and specialized nature of the resealing process, is it smarter to send it out for resealing ,not diy ?
- my D250 has only 60k miles from new so I don't want an exchange/reman. Reseal Cost is around $600 online. Reman with core is a little more.An up-power reman pump is $1000.
3. Looong term is it better to buy a brand new pump ,keep the original as a spare to get resealed eventually.example is Dieseltuff stage 1 $2000.
https://www.dieseltuff.com/product/new- ... tg-1-pump/
Note the "scratched-out" part number .
Any experiences with the Made in China VE pumps ?
I already fitted the upgraded lift pump from Hungry Diesel. Works fine.
Interested to read any referrals and experiences.Thank you !
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Re: Another VE Injection Pump Reseal Thread(How to)

Postby monoblock » Fri Mar 04, 2022 3:11 pm

I decided on Option #3.
No tax to pay :-), No core required, New not recon. The Stage 1 pump seems like a smart upgrade ? About $500 more than a stock-power,generic ve china pump.
I also bought a complete DGK121F (not DGK121) seal+gasket kit to redo the old (60k miles/30 yr old) pump.
Will fit a brass-tipped pin for the solenoid(FSS). The troublesome solenoid was bypassed with a mechanical shut-off decades ago. I fear that the rubber tip has since disintegrated and small rubber debris is scattered through the pump. I'll find out when I dismantle for the reseal.
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Re: Another VE Injection Pump Reseal Thread(How to)

Postby Richie O » Sat Mar 05, 2022 11:30 am

Why a scratched off number?? Are they stolen? Are they actually " Bosch " new?
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Re: Another VE Injection Pump Reseal Thread(How to)

Postby monoblock » Sat Mar 05, 2022 4:50 pm

See the Dieseltuff link I posted above.
It is new
It is Bosch
It is modified (Stage 1) so (?) the serial number is scratched out per their website item listing.
https://www.dieseltuff.com/product/new- ... tg-1-pump/

Update - I ordered the pump a week ago and when I asked about Tracking I got this:
"It will be approximately 2.5 weeks before I can fill your order. Sorry
DieselTuff https://www.dieseltuff.com/"
+ shipping time from Canada.
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