how did you do your cable shut down before i scrap my truck

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how did you do your cable shut down before i scrap my truck

Postby rattlebox93 » Tue Sep 08, 2009 3:45 pm

how have you guys put your pull cable shut downs i put mine in and it worked great for 2 days now it is binding up and not shutting the truck off i fed the cable housing through a hole in the bracket that is bolted to the pump head with 2 speed nuts on it one on either side of the bracket it worked great but now it is binding up and not shutting the truck down...i am about 10 seconds from taking a baseball bat to this peice of junk sending it to the junk yard and buying a commonrail
93 d350 extended cab dually, 5 speed, he351cw, industrial man ported, ported head, 60# springs, 6x16's, ballanced, coated slugs, lowerd comp, 354 spring, piston lp, 1/2 lines, con f, home made water in the works still not running but getting close
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fuel screw!!!!
 
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Postby Ace » Tue Sep 08, 2009 4:01 pm

Here's a few pics of my shutdown cable. The key to getting mine working smoothly was routing the cable straight through the firewall so it has very little to no bend in it. The wire itself is firmly secured to the shutdown lever with a bolt-in through-hole and I also tapped a hole into that bracket to hold it with a screw tightened down on the sheath. I removed the return spring so it stays either open or closed wherever I leave it and have not had a single problem with it since I came upon that solution about 2 years ago.

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbum/1 ... TD_194.jpg
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbum/1 ... TD_195.jpg
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbum/1 ... TD_196.jpg
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbum/1 ... TD_197.jpg
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14mm rotor
 
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Postby rattlebox93 » Wed Sep 09, 2009 11:16 am

thanks i think that is my problem i have mine where my power mirror switch used to be and it snakes all around....it weird tho i worked perfect for 2 days and now its giving me problems ind i might just use the 5th gear brake and clutch method of shutting it down.....i also see that u have a p pump style lift pump how did that work out for you i was going to use a electric and run a relay from the wire that controlled the shut down solonid for and electric pump but if that worked out good i might go that route
93 d350 extended cab dually, 5 speed, he351cw, industrial man ported, ported head, 60# springs, 6x16's, ballanced, coated slugs, lowerd comp, 354 spring, piston lp, 1/2 lines, con f, home made water in the works still not running but getting close
rattlebox93
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Postby peobryant » Wed Sep 09, 2009 1:26 pm

rattlebox93 wrote:thanks i think that is my problem i have mine where my power mirror switch used to be and it snakes all around....it weird tho i worked perfect for 2 days and now its giving me problems ind i might just use the 5th gear brake and clutch method of shutting it down.....i also see that u have a p pump style lift pump how did that work out for you i was going to use a electric and run a relay from the wire that controlled the shut down solonid for and electric pump but if that worked out good i might go that route


If you want to stay around 400rwhp or lower, (maybe a little higher as well) the low pressure piston pump would be my first choice. Pete made right under 400rwhp with his piston pump, and if I recall correctly, the fuel pressure barely dropped.

I have a picture of what all is needed, if your interested I could post it for you. (Thanks again, David. 8))
Parker
1991 Dodge Ram D350, Cummins Turbo Diesel, A518
1972 Mercedes-Benz 220D, OM615 Diesel, 4 Speed Manual
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Postby Ace » Wed Sep 09, 2009 2:56 pm

I think the piston pump is a great upgrade. But even more important is upgrading the stock 5/16" supply line from the tank and the tank pickup. That made more difference than anything else in my fuel pressure stability. Before upgrading the pickup and supply line I could pull the pressure down 4-5lbs under load with stock injectors and the piston pump. Now the pressure stays in overrun mostly (16-17psi), pulling down just a pound or 2 to 15psi (pump relief pressure) under full sustained load.
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14mm rotor
 
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You need

Postby ZSkibo » Thu Sep 10, 2009 5:58 pm

To keep the cable in as straight a line as possible. The more bends in the cable, the more resistance you'll have pulling on it. I have mine right next to the dome light/ bed light switch.
92 W250 Pump bombed, AFC out, 366 spring, 18* timing, KSB hotwired, HX35 12cm non wg, New Era 6x18's, BHAF, 60 lb in/ex springs, 4" PAC Brake, onboard air, Nathan P3 horns
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