Fuel filter help.

[coolhand_luke]

I replaced my fuel filter and I cant get that sensor piece that sits on top of the filter to stop leaking. I don't know what it's called and no part stores seem to have a replacement. Can I install the filter without the thing our does it have a purpose? Thanks.

[cmann250]

It's a fuel heater and you can't run without it. The delete stud part number at Cummins is 3925954

[bmoeller]

May need a simple gasket, or if the fuel is coming out of the electrical connector, it'll need to be replaced. Not that expensive either way.

[coolhand_luke]

Where can I buy one?

[Diesel Dawg]

Use the part number in the previous post to get the shorter spud and delete the heater. They leak about everytime you change the filter.

[bmoeller]

They leak about everytime you change the filter.

That's a bunch of crap. I've NEVER had one leak. I've owned 4 Cummins powered trucks. And had one as long as 8yrs.

Seal- http://www.genosgarage.com/CUMMINS-FUEL ... o/3913695/

As cold as it can get around here, I wouldn't run without a heater. Additives or not.

[cmann250]

That's a bunch of crap. I've NEVER had one leak. I've owned 4 Cummins powered trucks. And had one as long as 8yrs.

Seal- http://www.genosgarage.com/CUMMINS-FUEL ... o/3913695/

As cold as it can get around here, I wouldn't run without a heater. Additives or not.

I deleted mine because it leaked and I despise electronics. Thus far this winter, I have not had so much as a hiccup. A few mornings have been in the single digits and it's been several weeks since the morning temperature was above 25*.

[PToombs]

Luke, if you use the sites substandard search function, you may be able to find the o-ring part number. Genos Garage has it too, part number 3913695. (i had the catalog right here ) That may be the cummins number too. Or you can use the delete stud and remove it. I got rid of mine on the '97 and haven't had any problems.

Bryan, on TDR several guys in Alaska deleted theirs as soon as they got the truck. They haven't had any problems after deleting it either. They thought it was better to not have it than risk getting stranded out in the tundra someplce if it craps out.

[coolhand_luke]

Thanks, I ordered a gasket. If that doesn't fix it, I will buy the delete nipple

[Mark Nixon]

If it leaks around the pins in the connector, pull it off, clean the hole around the pins very well with brake cleaner, then use just enough GREY SILICONE SEALER (the oil resistant type typically used for tranny and axle lube applications) around the terminals to seal it, then plug the connector into it and LET IT DRY.
After the sealer cures, it may well never leak again, though if you do pull the plug on it again, you may have to re-do it again.

If the option is to run without the fuel heater, or risk gelling up, I'll go to a bit of hassle to keep it functioning.

Mark.

[PToombs]

Mark, that's where mine was leaking.It kept getting air in it and wouldn't start, but no leaks. I put an electric pump back at the tank, and plugged the return shut at the tank. I had about 15 psi on it and then pumped the LP,30 psi, still no leaks. I was under the truck looking up at the engine, and saw the plug, so I pulled it out. I heard a shhhhhhhhh and was squirming like a SOB to get out of the way when the fuel came shooting out of the plug hole. When I got it out, you could see the plastic was melted around the pins.

[Mark Nixon]

Pete, I've seen them leak before and did the above to cure leaks.
I never thought that the CAUSE could be melted terminals, though it's probably more common than simply having worked the pins loose by tugging on the connector too hard.

I'll buy that the pins in the fuel heater can cause an air leak and hard starting, seems like a pinhole in these things will make them hard starting, but man is it nice to just bump the key to hear them fire when they ARE right!

Mark.

[coolhand_luke]

thanks for the info. Luckily its not leaking out of the connector, just out of the top where the o-ring is.

[1992gen1_fan]

Make sure the stud is'nt loosening up and not tightening when you screw the new filter on. That happened several times to me. Make sure the stud is tight before installing the new filter.

Also, if it does come loose, make sure and clock the fuel heater to where there is no interference, the plug can get against something and cause the heater to not seal against the head. Good luck

[coolhand_luke]

Got the new rubber gasket from Genos and the old one was flat compared to the new one. Put it on and no leaks. I will buy that gasket again next fuel filter change.