How to identify non vs IC'd injectors?

[xohcef]

Well I keep reading about the 7mm vs the 9mm difference between the two. I'm just curious as to where that measurment is being taken. Sorry guys total noob here. Also is there normally a part number on the injectors that can decipher the two?

[skilletky]

that is the diameter of the nozzle itself( where the fuel comes out )

[xohcef]

Awesome, thanks for the fast response. Here's my deal. I have a 93 that I bought turned up and didn't know what turns were put on what, on top of that it had a gutted AFC. Well pump took a sthi, bought a new one (supposedly a 90 non IC pump)and put it on. Now I'm finding out that the delivery valves and KSB and or FSS were supposed to be different. Turns out none of the above had to be changed (As if someone already put a 90 pump on my 93, or do I have a 90 motor swapped into my 93 chassis? Who knows?). The only deciding detail I know on what would tell the pump apart is the fact that it needs 12V to be running and cut when not. What year would that make the pump? Assuming my motor is a 93 what sized nozzles are the ones that I'm going to need? Sorry for all the previously answered questions but I've searched for the last 3 hours.

[xohcef]

I think I have 7mm nozzles correct If my head is still original 93?

[skilletky]

both intercooled and non intercooler pumps need 12 volts to the fuel shut off solenoid to run. the intercooled ksb needs 12 volts to advance the timing and i think the non intercooled pump are oppisite. i have seen a few intercooled trucks that had a non intercooled engine swapped in. the intercooled injectors have 7mm nozzles and non intercooled have 9 mm nozzles. post a pic of your pump and engine if ya can.

[xohcef]

Pump

Engine bay shots



and a pic of the extra injectors I have if some one can just eye ball em by experience. I'm currently at work and don't have them with me or else I'd just measure.

[cmann250]

I think you have a non-intercooled pump, because it looks familiar to me, but I could be wrong. You do have intercooled injector lines and you can tell what injectors you have by the number of holes. 4 holes=non intercooled, 6 holes=intercooled and both situations assume they are stock.

[xohcef]

Once again thanks for the fast responses. Can anyone tell me just by looking what year motor i have? I was told that the truck fell victim to a KDP incident and was told that the motor was rebuilt. At this point who knows what year it could actually be because this guy that I got my new pump from said that it came off a 90 (which looks like cmann is confirming) My old one was identical so I think the guy I purchased the truck from used a non IC pump on it. IDK what's going on with this frankenstein of a mess.

[cmann250]

After a closer look, you have an intercooled KSB on the side, but from the angle, it looks like a non intercooled pump because of the short delivery valves. You do have an intercooled thremostat housing and radiator setup. Does the vacuum pump have pods on the side and bottom, or is it a vane style?

[xohcef]

Well I just hope that whatever extra injectors I do have work in my head. I do not recal off the top of my head what the vacuum pump looks like. I will have to check on that tonight once I get back to the truck.

[PToombs]

Are there injectors in the truck? If so, there's no need to change them just because you are changing the pump, unless there is a problem with them. And if you have the non-IC head (9mm), you need the adapter washers to put in the IC (7mm) injectors. The adapter washers take up the 2mm between the narrow tip and the hole in the head.

[xohcef]

Are there injectors in the truck? If so, there's no need to change them just because you are changing the pump, unless there is a problem with them. And if you have the non-IC head (9mm), you need the adapter washers to put in the IC (7mm) injectors. The adapter washers take up the 2mm between the narrow tip and the hole in the head.

I understand that, I guess I wasn't thourough enough in explaining my situation. After the new pump install I had a HEAVY overfueling condition. Wouldn't barely idle, chugged the white/greyish smoke (horribly) I have a 93 (IC) which as stated earlier was a KDP victim. I didn't know if the old owner swapped in a new motor or the old one was repaired. The reason to speculate was cmann said my pump looked like it was a non IC version. The new one I recieved looked exactly like it so I was beginning to think maybe I had a non IC application installed into the truck after the KDP deal. Got to reading and hearing how injector lines were different and then how injectors wont work one half generation to the next because the 7mm and 9mm nozzle differences. So basically I didn't even know what I had year wise between a pump/head/injectors/lines. Well this overfueling/missing condition had my help and myself thinking a stuck open injector so I just wanted to get some advice on that and wether my extra set of injectors would work. Turns out that when you have a gutted KSB on the previous set up and the current one works like it should you should probably hook a 12v source up to it. That and actually figuring out physically where the pump needs to be tightened down at made a huge difference, like to where she's running perfectly. I would've never guessed a timing issue. These diesels trick the simple minded gasoline engine mechanics.

[xohcef]

So next question. I bought a stock pump with all the original stops and caps/covers on it. Once I figured out that it needed a 12v source to the KSB we had to ratchet strap it to the head just to get the horrible miss to go away. Now she runs right just thought it was weird that it took it being on the head to smooth out. Does this mean we're off a tooth on the pump gear timing? I thought the mark on the back of the timing case was right in the middle. (mine has been polished down so no more mark)

[PToombs]

Glad you got it running! Yes, it sounds like the gear may be off a tooth. And the mark is usually close to the middle . You may have to pull the timing cover to see the marks on the gear, the dot should be on the "E" on the pump gear. If you have it running decent where it is, you may want to leave it and not mess with it anymore, up to you though!

[xohcef]

Exactly what I wanted to know. Unfortunately and fortunately for me I dropped the key into the case. AAAAAGGGGHHHHHHH!!!! It did however allow me to put it on letter E and physically see it was there. The cummins manual I was using had the letter E and another letter for a 6BT 5.9 but it said some thing about CARB and figured that was an emission option (probably California related I'm guessing) Thank you though Pete I'll leave her there.