Fuel Pressure Gauge Signal

[SChandler]

For those of you who are running a fuel pressure gauge, where do you get the reading from? I was thinking about replacing the bleeder screw with a banjo bolt/fuel pressure gauge tap that I got from Geno's Garage (assuming it fits, they list it for 24 valve motors). Would that cause problems or is there another place to pick up the reading?

[bgilbert]

For those of you who are running a fuel pressure gauge, where do you get the reading from? I was thinking about replacing the bleeder screw with a banjo bolt/fuel pressure gauge tap that I got from Geno's Garage (assuming it fits, they list it for 24 valve motors). Would that cause problems or is there another place to pick up the reading?

Yep you got it. The tapped banjo bolt from Geno's listed as a 24 valve part, works just fine. Many of us use it. Place it post filter, where the other tapped/bleeder screw banjo bolt is.

[SChandler]

Thanks Bgilbert. Guess I need to get out in the garage and do it now.

[SChandler]

So, I was installing the fuel pressure sender and the banjo bolt and everything went well. I have not installed the guage yet (no free time yet) but I got to wondering about the sender or banjo bolt cracking. I bought this fuel pressure guage: http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WM-FPKT-16 which uses this sender: http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WM-FP-SEN-38716V2. I was looking at directions Geno's has on their website for the install and it states that the sender needs to mount vertically? There was a 45* fitting with the sender that would point it up at a 45, but then it would hit the dipstick tube. Or I could use the Vulcan fuel pressure guage line that Geno's carries along with the sender mounting bracket to mount it on the fenderwell vertically. Or I could just not worry about and leave it as it is now, horizontally mounted hanging off the end of the tapped banjo bolt. Any suggestions?

[SChandler]

So, I was installing the fuel pressure sender and the banjo bolt and everything went well. I have not installed the gauge yet (no free time yet) but I got to wondering about the sender or banjo bolt cracking. I bought this fuel pressure gauge: http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WM-FPKT-16 which uses this sender: http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WM-FP-SEN-38716V2. I was looking at directions Geno's has on their website for the install and it states that the sender needs to mount vertically? There was a 45* fitting with the sender that would point it up at a 45, but then it would hit the dipstick tube. Or I could use the Vulcan fuel pressure gauge line that Geno's carries along with the sender mounting bracket to mount it on the fender well vertically. Or I could just not worry about and leave it as it is now, horizontally mounted hanging off the end of the tapped banjo bolt. Any suggestions?

[bgilbert]

I've had mine mounted sideways for some time now with no problems. Well, it's actually not mounted on the engine. It's mounted on a fuel pressure regulator on the driverside fenderwell. Prior to that, I had it mounted straight up and down via homemade bracket and a 12" length of hydraulic hose. Some use grease gun hose with the correct pipe thread couplers. I'm pretty sure the grease gun hose has 1/8npt male threads.

You really should mount it off the engine or not direct. I would use a section of hose like above or maybe the kit from Geno's. From reading, the direct mounting on the engine can shorten the life of the sender.

[SChandler]

Thanks bgilbert. That's pretty much what I was thinking about the sender (engine vibration killing it). I ordered the bracket today. It should be here sometime next week. I'll stop by Napa tonight and pick up a grease hose and mount the sender with a zip tie until I get the bracket.

[SChandler]

Got the fuel pressure gauge installed using an 18" piece of grease gun hose to isolate the sender from the motor. Worked ok, but I think I'm going to add another grease gun hose to is so I can mount the sender to the fenderwell. Idle's at 4-4.5 psi and drops to 1 psi on a full throttle 3rd gear blast. Need to change the fuel filter to check and see if it's time for a piston lift pump or not .

[Ace]

I think the piston pump upgrade (or any better pump, for that matter) is a must-do mod for these trucks. Dodge probably only went with the stock low-press diaphragm pump as the minimum requirement for a 160HP engine as a cost savings. You'll be surprised how much better it runs throughout the rpm range with the VE inlet seeing a constant higher pressure of at leats 10 psi all the time. And no worries about filling the crankase with fuel after the stock pump decides to crap out.

Mine never pulls down below relief pressure (15psi) any more with a bigger filter/mount and the pickup modded for 3/8" i.d. running stock injectors. I think I saw it dip to 14psi on a long hard uphill pull once a couple months ago.

[randyswelding]

how hard is it to change out the stock lift pump to the pistion pump,any picks i think mines takin a crap on me

[Ace]

On a 1-to-10 degree of difficulty scale I'd give it a 3. No special tools required, two bolts and the fuel connections. Need a few additional parts, spacer, new line to the filter, etc. There's a good writeup by BC847 in the DTR sticky performance section.

[PToombs]

And you have to grind some of the insulation off the tappet cover. If you don't, the line will hit and you'll tear your hair out going WTF!

[whereswaldo250]

I don't mean to hijack but I want to put in an isspro fuel pressure gauge but I was wondering if it is safe to run a mechanical gauge due to fuel being in the cab? Which reads more accurately a mechanical or a electrical? Any other suggestions for parts that make it easy to install before I buy one?

Thanks

[Ace]

If you're really worried about it you can use an isolator to keep fuel out of the cab, but they're expensive. I put a needle valve and snubber on the FP line. The valve is just cracked open, so even if the line was cut in the cab it would only drip. Maybe a fast drip, but nothing to worry about too much if I pull over, pop the hood, get out and close the valve.

I prefer mechanical gauges. More reliable. JMHO.

[whereswaldo250]

If you're really worried about it you can use an isolator to keep fuel out of the cab, but they're expensive. I put a needle valve and snubber on the FP line. The valve is just cracked open, so even if the line was cut in the cab it would only drip. Maybe a fast drip, but nothing to worry about too much if I pull over, pop the hood, get out and close the valve.

I prefer mechanical gauges. More reliable. JMHO.

Ace if it is not too much trouble could you post or send me a picture or two of your set up. Thanks