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by **DieselSharker** » Wed Aug 12, 2009 7:35 am

Hey guys. I was talking to a fellow 1st-genner today and he was asking if I had ever heard of the full power screw being stripped and if there is any way to fix it. He said it runs fine but I myself would be worried about it. He then informed me that he can't get the screws off the housing to get to the diaphragm and fuel pin. Tried penetrating oil and all kinds of stuff and tried a screwdriver with pliers but they won't budge. Sounds like previous owner went a little nutso on the VE and got in over his head. Any ideas?

by **slingshot** » Wed Aug 12, 2009 8:24 am

The bolts on the top of the diaphragm housing are on there pretty good from the factory, at least mine were. I had to take a screwdriver bit from an impact driver (dont use the impact driver,just the bit) and put it in a socket, then I had to put all of my weight on the business end of the ratchet and break them loose.
As far as the power screw stripped, if it is the housing that is stripped, he may want to keep an eye out for a new/used top.

by **dpuckett** » Wed Aug 12, 2009 12:52 pm

10" Vice Grips on the end of a big screwdriver work, too. Oops, not supposed to mention Vice Grips, and I?

by **PToombs** » Wed Aug 12, 2009 7:31 pm

As long as the 'Grips are on the screw driver it's ok.

Mine were tight as heck too. Maybe some gentle heat with a propane torch on the bottom side to loosen them up?

by **gear jammer 91"** » Wed Aug 12, 2009 8:38 pm

When mine wouldn't come loose I tapped on them with a hammer to loosen them up. It worked great, you just have to understand that you are tapping on aluminum that cam break easy.

by **slingshot** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 5:45 am

Also, I replaced mine with allen head bolts so it is much easier to get them now.

by **TTipswprd** » Fri Aug 14, 2009 11:33 am

I used a torque srewdriver. You just hit the top of the tool with a hammer and it uses that energy to turn the screw. Can do the same with a regular screw driver. put all of your weight into the screw driver while a buddie hits the top with a hammer.

by **DieselSharker** » Sat Aug 15, 2009 2:42 pm

Thanks guys. I told him when I talked to him about the vice grips. He said he tried it already but who knows. Didn't even think of the hammer trick even though I've done it before on other parts and vehicles. I'll pass the info along.

by **TTipswprd** » Sat Aug 15, 2009 2:54 pm

Dont have a link but do have a piece of advice. When you put the top half of pump back on be absalutley certain the fuel screw does not get caught on top of the little lever in the pump. I found out the hard way. over a grand to get rebuilt tuned and re timed. :grrr:

by **DieselSharker** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 2:17 pm

TTipswprd wrote:Dont have a link but do have a piece of advice. When you put the top half of pump back on be absalutley certain the fuel screw does not get caught on top of the little lever in the pump. I found out the hard way. over a grand to get rebuilt tuned and re timed.

Yeah I found a link last night that showed using a wire to hold back the lever while you put the top half back on and then yanking it out after you get the first screw a few threads down. How do you reckon rotating the pin will affect my egts? Right now I'm running max 1250 on a non-ic truck.

by **PToombs** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 4:52 pm

Don't waste your time doing the wire thing. It sucks! When you have the cover off, back the screw out so it's flush with the inside of the cover. Count the turns. Then you can put the cover on easily, and turn it back in the same amount, and be right where you started. Much easier. and also a good time to take the lock collar off the screw too.

by **TTipswprd** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 5:11 pm

not sure with no intercooler. on my 92 i have never even hit 1200 egts.

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