In truck overhaul?

[Fnschlaud4620]

Well I took a chance with a used engine, Now I hear a knocking noise.

I am loosing oil pressure. at a slow rate.

I cut the oil filter apart and found quite a bit of material in it.

I am going to remove the oil pan and inspect the bearings.

My first question is, Can I change all of the main bearings in this Engine without removing the front cover or rear main seal? just by sliding a new bearing around the crank?

If I find no problems with the crank and bearings then odds are it is a piston.

I never have had the EGT gauge over 1100 deg. So I wouldnt think that it is piston but you nver know?

So if I have to pull the engine to get new parts, What kind of stuff should I get.

I have heard that these engines are not wet sleeve, and the block has to be bored for new pistons.

Should I get the marine pistons, Even though the injectors I have are for automotive spray angle?

Are there Big bore kits Avaliable?
Should I get the pistons ceramic coated?

If I have to major it. I will be fireringing it too. Is it best to get the rings cut into the head or block?

I apprecieate any thoughts and advice

Thanks Fnschlaud4620

[wannadiesel]

If you can get the pan off you can roll in new bearings. Depending on how tight it is in your conversion it may be easier to yank it back out and do it on a stand.

Get an oil analysis done on the oil - if you have high lead and copper it's bearings. If you have high aluminum you have a hurt piston.

[Fnschlaud4620]

The knock is not very bad, but my engine is definatly louder and has more of an individual hammer noise than others, You have to listen for it when it is warmed up, but when it is cold you can definatily tell something is wrong.

When I cut the filter apart I found on average 3 flakes of something per fold of the filter.

If it is bearing material, Wouldn't there have to be a bad spot on the crank to be throwing out bearing particles?

Is there a easy way to fix a riser without having the crank ground? can you just file it down and polish it?

I dont know?

probably just installing new bearings wont fix it for long will it?

[JLeonard]

I have heard that these engines are not wet sleeve, and the block has to be bored for new pistons

Yes this engine has "parent bores" meaning it is not sleeved either wet or dry.
You can bore one or more cylinder oversized, that is a Cummins authorized reapir. You can also bore and sleeve to standard size if you want.
Hope that answers your question.
Jay

[Begle1]

I'm surprised that I hear people talking about boring only a single piston oversized. I would tend to think that wouldn't be the best thing to do for the sake of balance.

Altough, if you bore all the cylinders over .030, then you get to say that you have a 6.0 Cummins. And that's always fun.

[PToombs]

Yeah, too bad oversize only comes in .020 and .040!


My buddy had 1 bad hole in his excavator, he bored the one and sleeved it back to stock. Then he can still go twice more. If he did them all .020, he only had 1 before he had to sleeve them all.

[dpuckett]

In a diesel, the power balance is determined by fuelling, though the larger cylinder would have slightly lower pressure, but not enough to really notice.

If you are losing oil pressure, I'd check into the oil pump. Is this with a real gauge, or the OEM (doesnt matter the brand, they are all junk) jukpile?

Timing and an injector can also make it knock weird. What RPM/ LOAD does it knock at? I am by no means saying you DONT need a rebuild, or that I am surprised (hey, these things are 15years old, that's a lot of poor maintenance), just throwing out simpler things to check first.

Daniel

[Fnschlaud4620]

well I took it out of the truck

I decided that it would be easier to do, after looking at the bearings, they are all junk

Well I bought a good crankshaft out of a 98 12 valve, I hope it works in my 91 block

If everything else looks ok I plan on reusing the pistons and rods, cam and as much as I can.

If it looks bad I was wondering you guys opinion on the 370hp marine pistons with the coated skirts if I have to get the block bored.

1st question will it start? I wont be driving it in winter but I dont want to either it all the time in summer to start it.

2nd question will the injectors I have that have an automotive spray angle work with the marine bowl design?

my next question is "Is there a company that offers a removable camshaft gear"? Just in case I want to go to the dark side and P-pump it in the future, I was thinking I dont want to mess with removing the cam and holding up lifters to change the gear housing.

Thanks alot guys
Fnschlaud4620

[KTA]

I just finished building a guy a 600rwhp street motor 12v P-pump with DDP4's a worked over stock injection pump one of my cams, Marine 370 Pistons Coated Top and skirts, and a custom s400 turbo by me. It drives pretty good on the street and even with high timing has started fine soo far, but its never been cooler than 60deg here since it was finished, but I have another less radical truck with the same pistons stock cam and a hx40 that is 450rwhp trailer puller and he drives it all year and says he only has to plug it up when its below 40deg. Other than the low compression pistons make the engines haze white smoke ALOT when cold I don't see any drawbacks.

[wannadiesel]

If you disable the intake heater there's always ether...

[Fnschlaud4620]

Well I found a cam with a bolted on cam gear, They are offered by formula 1 diesel. I am sure you guys have heard of them. It is a 200.00 option on a $750.00 cam ( I am looking at their F2 cam) Just wondering your opinion. I didnt think that they would be so expensive though, I have seen some companies offering regrinds for around $400.00 I know that the F2 is from a new core, but does that make that big of a difference? I would have to think that someone out there can make a bolt on gear go on a cheaper regrind bigger than stock cam.

I am going to call them and see if I can purchase only the bolt on gear part, Then I will have to find someone who can put it on a cheaper regrind.
http://www.f1diesel.com/helixspecs.html

[Fnschlaud4620]

Oh yeah I forgot,

I read on their website that the marine 5.9 cams have a removable gear, does anyone know the specs on the marine cams?
Thanks
Fnschlaud4620

[KTA]

The cam gear is removeable on ALL cummins cams. The bolt on gear is totally unnecessary for a VE pumped truck. The purpose of a bolt on gear is to keep high injection pump loads from pushing the gear off the nose of the crank. If you are really worried about it you can drill and tap the end of your cam for a 7/16 or 1/2 by 1" countersunk bolt and fab a retainer to hold the gear on. Total height of the retainer can not exceed .4" or it will rub the front cover.

[Fnschlaud4620]

mabe I am confused as to why they make a bolt on gear?

I thought it was so it could be easily removed in a matter of minutes rather that having to heat the pressed on gear and pull it off or hold up the lifters to pull the cam? Kinda like the 3 bolts that hold the cam gear on a 350 chevy for example, If this is not the case I guess I am not interested.

I am on a limited budget with this, so my goals were to build the short block very well and skimp on the head and injection pump for now. then upgrade them later. I dont have the funds for an 887 or 913 P-pump right now so I thought that If I could eliminate having to pull the cam, front grill, radiator, and AC condensor later, I would be willing to spend $200.00 not to risk dropping a lifter into my oil pan later.

I want to use my Ve pump for now considering that I spent money for the injectors and I never got to fully expirence the power potential of the ve due to my torque converter sucking so bad. I Picked up an NV4500 for my truck. That 4L80E POS is definatly not going back in. I think it will be alot faster and more fun to drive.

[KTA]

The bolt on cam gears are still pressed on. The retainer bolt is in the center of the cam, so it cant serve to drive the cam. It therefore relies on the friction from the press fit and the key to keep it from spinning the gear on the cam. If you have a steering wheel puller you can modify you can make a tool to pull the cam gear while still in the truck to get the front cover off. You then drill and tap the cam and use a bolt to re install the cam gear when its hot from your easy bake oven. I have replaced a bunch of front covers by that method.