full power fueling screw

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Re: full power fueling screw

Postby ahale2772 » Tue Jul 19, 2011 8:09 am

Not to step on your toes Mark but, I did exactly that fuel screw about 3.5 turns in, low idle bottomed then ran the idle screw out till it made the truck idle fine..... But it still hung at rpm and started to climb when I bumped it off idle... backed it off .5 of a turn and it was ok, it will still runaway but not right when you start it up, I agree it's certainly the smarter way of doing it
84 CCLB W350 project
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Re: full power fueling screw

Postby oldestof11 » Tue Jul 19, 2011 1:04 pm

The way I did my spring and not break my fuel lever was fishing line. Next time though, I am taking it out.
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Re: full power fueling screw

Postby Mark Nixon » Tue Jul 19, 2011 1:28 pm

ahale2772 wrote:Not to step on your toes Mark...

Step on 'em if you like. 8)
Just please stay away from the big toe on my left foot. ;)

Mark.
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Re: full power fueling screw

Postby ahale2772 » Tue Jul 19, 2011 5:26 pm

Pull the screw, push the throttle shaft down and keep it on the spring/tophat ... Easy as pie in my opinion :lol:
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Re: full power fueling screw

Postby ivel_86 » Wed Jul 20, 2011 6:41 am

Wow now I am very confused. I have been wanting to turn my full power screw in but have been very scared to. (possible run away) Now I am scared and confused. You are talking about breaking the fuel lever and what not? I know were the idel screws are and the full power screw and even read about the internals of the pump but what does the fuel lever have to do with anything. Are you talking when changing the gov spring? And what is this turning in the idel screw and than turning up the full power screw? Thanks for any help you guys can give!
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Re: full power fueling screw

Postby 1arock » Wed Jul 20, 2011 8:52 am

If you remove the top to change governer springs the fuel screw will hit the top of the fuel lever in the pump when you try to reinstall the top. The easiest way to do this is to just pull the screw all the way out before reinstalling the top. If you do not remove the top (ie. governer spring or resealing ) there is no danger of bending the fuel lever. Marks method of turning the fuel screw up is imo the easiest way and probably most correct way to turn it up.
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92W250 w/a 68D100 skin,tach, pyro, boost, trans temp guages, rebuilt a518 w/a PTC converter, 4in muffeled exhaust, 3200 gov spring, he351cw,M@H dynamic timing, 5x12s,M@H M3 pin, pump jacked with, 3.54s, 6+ lift, 14.5x36r rubber,nearly done,"What was I thinking?"
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Re: full power fueling screw

Postby Remps » Wed Jul 20, 2011 9:06 am

You can break-bend internals on the pump if you take the top off to change the gov spring, and reinstall without removing the fuel screw. One could possibly do damage with a lengthened screw if you're not careful. Now turning the idle way down, and bringing back to normal idle with the fuel screw is an easy way to get the pump close to its max settings, but always have the turbo intake hose off and a nice flat board ready if you are gonna max out the pump. Always rev the engine a couple times after turning up the fuel screw to make sure it won't run away. Sometimes a pump on the verge will idle ok after you turn it up, but when you blip the throttle it'll just keep revving. If this happens I'd first try to kill it with the fuel kill lever on the side of the pump, then kill it with a board if you have to. Easy peazy, just gotta take precautions.
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Re: full power fueling screw

Postby ivel_86 » Wed Jul 20, 2011 9:36 am

Ok I think I can do that (hope) but... isnt there two Idel screws. Like a low and high? I might be wrong but I thought there was. Do I turn the idel screw out that is closest to the block? Than nock the collar off the full power screw and turn it in? Sorry to be asking so many questions but I know you guys have the experince so thanks again.
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Re: full power fueling screw

Postby BILTIT » Wed Jul 20, 2011 12:49 pm

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Re: full power fueling screw

Postby oldestof11 » Wed Jul 20, 2011 1:07 pm

The one closest to the block is the idle screw.

The one towards the fender is the high throttle stop. Remove it. It will help with obtaining the RPM's in a more efficient matter. According to my phone, it knocked .2 sec off in the 1/4 mile alone. It seems to have gotten the engines torque curve to nicely match the torque converter efficiency range.
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Re: full power fueling screw

Postby DieselLam » Wed Jul 20, 2011 9:25 pm

What is this adjustment near the fender? I got the part about the idle adj. And full power adj. I pulled the screw out and found a o ring, now I am wondering if you running the screw in will effect sealing? What is the o ring for?
1993 D-250 straight pipe, PDR intake, Pump tweaked. KDP DDP fuel pin.
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Re: full power fueling screw

Postby Mark Nixon » Wed Jul 20, 2011 9:38 pm

The adjustment nearer the fender is the high RPM screw, you can remove it, no issues there.
To get it's full potential, you should adjust the linkage so that the little tab that would hit it, hits the casting where the screw used to go through.

The O-ring just seals the screw from leaking, all I do is re-lube it with diesel or light oil and stick it back in.
After I remove the damnable collar, of course. :D

Mark.
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Re: full power fueling screw

Postby 1arock » Wed Jul 20, 2011 9:49 pm

The screw closest to the fender is the high idle screw( ie. wide open), back it out all the way and forget about it. II won't turn enough rpms to hurt itself unless you screw the fuel screw in too far, then it's the governer thats making it run away not the high idle stop screw.Rocky
92W250 w/a 68D100 skin,tach, pyro, boost, trans temp guages, rebuilt a518 w/a PTC converter, 4in muffeled exhaust, 3200 gov spring, he351cw,M@H dynamic timing, 5x12s,M@H M3 pin, pump jacked with, 3.54s, 6+ lift, 14.5x36r rubber,nearly done,"What was I thinking?"
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Re: full power fueling screw

Postby DieselLam » Wed Jul 20, 2011 9:51 pm

Must be a large sealing surface in there. OK IL give that a try
1993 D-250 straight pipe, PDR intake, Pump tweaked. KDP DDP fuel pin.
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Re: full power fueling screw

Postby ivel_86 » Thu Jul 21, 2011 6:23 am

Well I adjusted my throttel linkage (needed to be done) than I adjusted my steering (also needed to be done) but I feel that I am actually putting off turning up the full power screw. So I plan to tonight. Any ideas how to get the collar off? And should the truck be running while making the adjustment? How far should I turn my idel screw down? Is it a one for one (one turn idel out and one turn full power in?) Very sorry that I hijacked this thread but I have been getting more and more courage to do things and this is kinda the next step for me. Thanks.
US ARMY SGT
OIF 08-09

'93 W250, 4in Sky Lacker 35in Kelly Safari, Pump turned up, Fuel Pin ground, Pyro and Boost gauges, Straight piped, Home made air cleaner assembly.
ivel_86
fuel screw!!!!
 
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