Number 6 cylinder knock

[Luther Grimace]

The smoke looks grey to me. It's not white like coolant or blue like oil.

[Luther Grimace]

I am going to try to unplug the ksb tonight and see if that effects the knock. I am hoping that the pump is so advance (all the way to the head) that it is causing detonation early. I'm hoping but we'll see.

[Luther Grimace]

I know this is a late update but I found the knock for anyone that is wondering.




Here is the knock before I took it apart. I have been doing a cab swap and just got it back going.


I bought a long block 2nd gen that I am going to use and put my first gen parts on. I think I should prolly still buy new injectors after reading this.

[dazedandconfused]

Ouch any idea how many miles on that motor?

[Luther Grimace]

I don't know because when I bought the truck it didn't have a gauge cluster. The previous owner estimated 250-350K. I bought a 98 12 valve long block and I'm in the process of swapping stuff over. The spray angle for the 91.5-93 is the same as 94-98 from what I've read? Also I think I should redo all my injectors as a safety precaution. That link to Southern Diesel Extreme isn't working that you previously posted. They seemed like a good price. I don't want them to smoke bad and I wanna keep good fuel economy. I am also swapping out the cam so I will have the intercooled VE cam in the P pump engine. Also any other recommendations would be appreciated. Thank y'all!

[Mark Nixon]

While the spray angle may be the same, the pop-off pressures are higher on the P-pump injectors.
The threads are also different where the lines screw onto the injectors.

Mark.

[dazedandconfused]

SDX is out of business but the injector maker opened his own company .
http://dfi-performance.com/

[Luther Grimace]

Yeah I wasn't going to use the 98 injectors because of that pop pressure and the injector line size. I was wondering if the 98 injectors had good sized nozzles? I thought about getting the 98s checked and if they were good swapping them into the 91.5 bodies.I just didn't know if the stock 98 nozzles would flow more or less than the stock 91.5 nozzles. Which size would yall recommend?

[Mark Nixon]

I always like to check out the top post in this thread if I have questions on stock injector sizes for VEs or P-pumpers:

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6793

Mark.

[DodgeFreak]

Unless the 98 is a 215 hp pump you'd be going backwards, If its a 215 5x.010s which is ever so slightly bigger than the stocks. I'm running 215ppump nozzles in mine and not sure if they made a noticeable difference because of size or just because my stockers were wore out.

[Luther Grimace]

Depending on what I find when I check those part numbers, I will probably just reuse mine for now as nasty as they are. I will try to save my money for some 5x12s down the road. I thought about seeing if an injector company would buy the 98 sticks for core price since I don't need them. That would make me more apt to get them now.

I pulled the engine last night to start swapping the parts. I think I will swap the VE cam into the P pump long block as I have heard no ups or downs to using the P Pump cam. Do yall think I should reuse the P pump lifters with the VE cam or am I asking for trouble? I will have the pan off so it might not be that bad to swap them. What do yall think about a timing tooth advance? I thought about skipping a tooth but I don't know if advanced timing is hard on these engines with the earlier detonation and all. I want power but after spending money to fix this truck I want longevity too. My VE pump is currently pulled all the way to the head. Also where do yall recommend getting the oil cooler gaskets? I thought about buying some conversion gasket set from advance.

Here are some pics from last night pulling it out.

[Mark Nixon]

The cam will make no difference either way.
Keep the lifters with their individual cams and in order.
DO NOT MIX AND MATCH THE LIFTERS, run the lifters that came with their respective cam!

I see you have a STORM block as a replacement.
Make sure it's not the big numbered "53" block and check it closely for cracks at the passenger's rear corner, around (under) the freeze plugs.

If you jump a tooth advanced, put the pump full retarded and adjust timing from there.

What are you going to do with the P-pump remains? I'd take them off your hands.

Mark.

[Luther Grimace]

Mark can you go into further detail on this STORM block and 53 casting? What is STORM block?

[Mark Nixon]

STORM is the abbreviation for the design of the block.
The letters mean "Standard Thread O Ring Metric", which, IIRC is in reference to the main cap bolts, which are 12mm on a STORM block and 14mm on the 1st gen and most 12 valves.
The STORM block is, generally speaking, a 1998-2002 24 valve block (And some industrial apps much later), but as you've probably figured, some later 12 valves have the STORM block, also.

Generally speaking, it's not usually a big issue on the very earliest blocks used in the 12 valves, I can only recall ever seeing 2 that were cracked and both were the large "53".
If yours doesn't have a large (3/4 inch tall, or so) "53" anywhere on it, don't worry about it.
If yours DOES have the big number "53", but it's also over 200,000 miles, don't worry about it, either.

There is another version of "53" block, but I have NEVER ever seen one of them broken.
They have a smaller "53" cast in under the A/C compressor mount, near the water outlet.
You have to remove the A/C bracket to see it.

Mark.

[Luther Grimace]

Thanks for all the info. I will sure enough be checking it tonight. The engine came out of 98 with 250K so Lord willing it will be ok. And i'll be selling the P pump remains by the way so PM me.