Advice on VE pump

[nooblet]

My VE pump is leaking fuel from the bottom of the pump. I've decided to buy a rebuilt one and put it in, but I'd like your advice on where to get it, and anything I should do when installing it. I will not be installing it myself since I lack the expertise on how to time the pump to the engine, but as of now I'm thinking I will buy it from Midwest Fuel Injection and get it installed either by a diesel shop, or by a friend who owns a diesel performance shop. What i would like to know is:

1. Is MWFI the best place to buy a rebuilt VE pump?

2. Should I do anything to the pump before it is installed?

3. This pump went 310k miles, but is there anything I should to do the pump to make it last?

Those are my three biggest concerns, since I'll be paying $1,000+ I want to make sure and get this right!

Thanks in advance,
Chris

[Ace]

As far as #3 goes, for lubricity, in particular, I run filtered waste oil and/or MMO along with other things depending on the season. #2 ain't what it used to be (ULSD). I think we'll be seeing pumps wearing out alot faster, generally speaking, if they're not getting additional lubricity from fuel adds.

[KTA]

I believe Scheid diesel has rebuilt VE's in the $600-700 range.

[nooblet]

Sheid doesn't list 1st gen pumps on their website, I guess I'll have to call them.

Thanks,
Chris

[PToombs]

2 stroke oil is the new hot ticket for lubricity. The cost is reasonable, it's easy to get, and it's made to burn clean.
I'd check around for pump prices. Check with GDS, http://gdsdieselparts.com/
They are good to deal with, I bought turbo parts from them.
Buy a factory service manual, shows you how to do that stuff, and is loaded with good info!

[rlyons]

These folks have them for $755.00 or $700.00 if you buy it off Ebay.
http://www.mwfi.com/VEPump.htm
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge-VE ... dZViewItem

[nooblet]

Yea, MWFI was the best price i've found so far. I'll call shieds monday and see what they run. I'll give gdsdieselparts a call also.

I spent yesterday and today trying to figure out why my truck is "overheating". The quotations are because i'm now thinking its the gauge telling me stories. In the last week i've replaced: water pump (old one was good i think, but $50 for the peace of mind), thermostat and seal, radiator (old one had a busted core anyway), and hoses. The only thing left in the coolant system that i can think of that would still be causing it to overheat is the heater core, or am i missing something? I swear when it rains it pours. I'm just waiting for my getrag to blow up now.

One thing at a time right?

Thanks for the help guys,
Chris

[nooblet]

I found a shop locally that is going to rebuild my pump. They told me it will cost me $650-1000 depending on what needs to be replaced. I don't know this shop at all, as I've just recently moved here, but I'm pretty skeptical. I also asked the guy at the shop if I bought a 3200rpm spring if he would install it for me while he's rebuilding the pump and he said yes. I ordered that from piers.

So...now its time to start pulling the pump, which I've never done before. I've heard that there is a pin or a key or something that can fall into the front end of the engine and ruin your life Whats the deal with this? Just a rumor? What do I need to look out for? Anything else I should do while I have this thing pulled out?

Thanks,
Chris

[sdstriper]

You have got to do yourself a favor and buy the Factory Service Manual Diesel Supplement ASAP, preferably before you get into anything serious like removing the injection pump. You can always get the FSM later or get them both if money is not an issue. Seriously, get the manual, the Factory Service Manual Diesel Supplement. Nothing else compares, I wouldn't wipe with a Chilton or Haynes, they are a bad joke in comparison.

[Rampower]

I bought my rebuilt injection pump about 8 years ago from Oregon fuel injection for 800.00. Might give them a call.

[nooblet]

Where can I find the manual? I've searched for it many times online with no luck, everyone tells me to get it, but no one can tell me where.

Chris

[nooblet]

I found the manual and ordered it, it won't be here for 4 days, so I'll have it in time for the re-installation.

Tech: 1-800-544-3312 is the number you need to call to get the Factory Service Manual Diesel Supplement. This cost me $64 after shipping and tax. I asked how much the manual that covers the whole truck was and they told me $75 + tax and shipping. You need the $64 manual for the engine and the $75 manual for the rest of the truck (is my understanding).

I know it was not required to do this job, but I pulled the fan and harmonic balancer and the gear cover. As I've never done this before I wanted to make sure I could see what was going on so I didn't mess anything up.

Question: the "key" or "pin" that needs to be lined up at the top, is this the little pin hole I can see behind the nut holding the injection pump gear on? I can see half of a hole behind the lock washer (which i was told not to put back on). I don't see any other type of pin or key, so I'm going to assume thats it and put it up top when I pull the gear.

I have taken a lot of pictures of this and will post them up for people to comment on...what I did wrong, what I did right, etc. I had a hard time finding any information about this with pictures and so on, so I'm gonna make it at least a little easier for the next guy.

Chris

[PToombs]

#1, FSM, www.genosgarage.com $85
#2, If you have the timing cover off, do a search for KDP,(killer dowel pin). This is the time to tab this pin, and remove, clean, and loctite the case bolts. 5 bolts near the cam, hold the timing case on. These are known to come loose.
#3, under the IP (injection pump) there is a plastic pin, push/pull, goes about 1/4 inch. This is the timing pin. It's easier to remove this complete and look thru the hole. There is a dimple in the cam gear that this goes into. This is TDC. (Always pull the pin out when you get TDC. If not, you can break the tip off. When you get the IP back, it will be set on #1. Ask the guy at the shop how to release the pump. It has a set screw holding it on #1, so it wont turn. The shop guy can show you better than we can tell you. He can point stuff out. You will get a new lock washer with the IP.

[nooblet]

Thanks.

Chris

[nooblet]

I did a search for KDP and killer dowel pin and came up with very little. Is this just one of those things you buy a kit for? I'd rather do it myself since my pump will be rebuilt in less than a week. I don't want to wait on putting my IP back on until I get a kit for this in the mail, but I understand its importance, and know I need to take care of this now.

Thanks again,
Chris