Turbo housing install

[Diesel]

I know this is an easy install but when i go to separate my stock exhaust housing from the compressor I don't want to mess up any seals. Is there a big seal in there? I certainly don't want a leak. I have been soaking all the bolts in kroil since yesterday awaiting my disassembly and installation next week. Would these 21 year old seals be things that you would replace anyway?

[CumminsPower59]

I don't think that there is a seal in there if you are wanting to split the housing from the center section. The few that I have messed with have never had a seal or anything between the exhaust housing and the center section...all just held together with bolts and such

[Tacoclaw]

The exhaust side should just be 4 or 6 bolts holding some circular clamps down. Break them loose, take out as many as you can, and start hammering the housing off. I say as many as you can, because one or two might unscrew up into the oil feed and drain area. Do not try to unscrew them past that, they will strip their holes out.

You can use them as pusher bolts, but again they strip easily so I would only reccomend using them to keep light pressure on it as you hammer. As you hammer it off don't let one side get ahead of the other. You will bind the turbine bades up in the housing and bend them. If you have to heat the housing; I always have, it makes it easier, use a really hot torch and get the housing hot ASAP. Don't keep heat on it any longer than you have to, it'll bleed Ito the center section and melt the seals. Those seals are tough, but they're not torch-tough.

When putting it back on, nev-R-sieze anything that touches anything. Once again, make sure your housing goes on straight so it doesn't hurt the blades, and remember to start those screws before you put it together since they won't be able to thread in once it's back together.

Oh, and there's no gasket on the exhaust side of the turbo. Its interference-fit, with a rust-gasket, which you'll ruin when you take it apart, but it'll seal back up when you put it together.

[Mark Nixon]

Here's how I separate the housing from the CHRA (Cartridge Housing Rotating Assembly) WITHOUT HAMMERING!:

The following it BEST done with the compressor housing and wheel removed!

Go to the hardware store and procure TWO 1/2" thread bolts and nuts that will fit between the COMPRESSOR backplate and the exhaust housing, a slightly longer bolt won't be a problem, because you can just screw the nut on and grind the threads back to clear.
The aim is to have the bolts sit between the housing and backing plate as snug as possible.
Remove, or loosen, the retainer bolts, whichever is necessary, then, screw the nuts down the bolts.
With the NUTS POINTING INTO the backing plate, wedge the bolts in 180* degrees from each other, between the compressor back plate and the housing.
Once that is done, using 2 wrenches, evenly tighten the nuts against the backplate while alternately removing the bolts left in the retainers.
If you feel you need to heat it, do so with some pressure on the bolts, but be very sparing with the heat and heat in 180* positions so the housing expands somewhat evenly.
BE WARNED! Make sure you have the bolts positioned as closely to the center of the housing (as it will allow) to minimize flexing of the backplate!

In truth, it only takes under 1/4" of movement of the housing to separate it from the CHRA.

Mark.

[Diesel]

Sounds like the continuous Kroil soaking is the way to go before the parts arrive next week.

[Tacoclaw]

I've never tried Mark's method, but as much as he screws with these truck you can bet it's a good method.

However, if you take off the compressor wheel, take a scribe/marker/paint marker and mark exactly where the shaft and wheel were aligned before you take them apart. It's a balanced assembly. Also, remember the nut that holds the compressor wheel on is LEFT HANDED THREAD As in, righty loosey, lefty tighty.

Good luck.

[Diesel]

Does anyone tinker with these trucks more than Mark!?

I won't be touching the compressor wheel this time around. Just a simple exhaust housing swap so I can get rid of my 21cm boat anchor and possibly have my low end act and feel like a diesel

Hoping to advance the timing a bit at the same time. If I like what these two things do I think I'll want to get some injectors that flow a couple percent more than the non-ic injectors. Probably won't do more engine mods until next year though.

[Mark Nixon]

Does anyone tinker with these trucks more than Mark!?

LOL, tinker is all I do, getting something productive done, that's a different story.

My latest "tinker" is doing an injector install on a commonrail and making it run on the ground, which was a success, I might add.
Don't let that fool you, I have taken a LOT of Commonrails apart and did a Bible's worth of reading and some brain picking, to know what to do to one of these things to even attempt it.
In the end, it's no different than firing a Dodge Magnum gasser up on the ground, but the prep to do it was tedious.

Mark.

[Diesel]

Now go ve/ppump and 12v a 6.7! That's the engine I want in my cc 1stgen.