New Injection Pump won't Squirt Fuel

[flashgordon]

I ran a line from the injection pump inlet directly into a can of fuel on the radiator, back when it was loping at idle. When that didn't make an iota of difference I momentarily considered the rest of the fuel system eliminated from contention.

I can check for bubbles with nylon lines tomorrow. I'll see if I can find some compression fittings to put into the port out of the block and the inlet port to the IP.

It's gotta be easier to find than damn metric hose barbs. I think I'm going to order some Swagelok's tomorrow.

I have a somewhat custom sender... It's just a metal pipe that goes straight down and has a screen on the end of it. Pulled the tank three times so far, I don't think there's a problem there.

When using steel reinforced line, make sure you don't short your sender to your lift pump or your fuel gauge will stop working.

I have a piston lift pump, and I know it's flowing good... At idle it fills up a liter bottle with fuel in about 30 seconds when I'm drawing fuel out of a tank on the radiator.

When it stalled I cracked the bleeder banjo and hit the primer bulb. I had lots of fuel come out within a couple pumps; I would think that would indicate a full fuel filter, and a blockage somewhere else.

Pete, if I want to feel better I hold the smoke in for longer.

Anybody know how I can run it with the shut-off solenoid totally removed? Is there something I can use as a plug? If that's screwing up it could be causing all these problems, and wasn't replaced when they rebuilt the pump.

One thing about it, if you put good ends on it. it will be vary simple the next time you question air in the fuel

Flash

[PToombs]

If you pull the plunger and the spring, it's good enough. Plenty of fuel. No need to remove the solenoid.

[Ace]

Mine started leaking at some point after removing the plunger and spring. So I knocked out the entire soleniod assembly and tapped the shell/core for a pipe plug. It's now basically just a pipe plug that threads into the shutown solenoid hole.

[Begle1]

Is it possible to get the injection pump gear a tooth off when installing the injection pump?

Because it is running now, but there's a constant blue haze and a pretty bad valve clatter.

The smoke can be explained by retarded timing, but it seemed when I was installing the thing like there was only one way for it to go on? If I got it off a tooth, I know it isn't off more than one tooth; the holes on the gear seemed to be just as horizontal when I finished as when I started. Could've I smashed the key in somewhere other than the keyway and have the gear just turning due to shaft friction?

I can turn all the pushrods around in their holes and the valves are all adjusted right. What else could be a clatter? Could an injector clatter? Could retarded timing cause a clatter?

[PToombs]

As an experiment, I tried to turn the gear inside the case once. I could not get it to jump a tooth. I tried pretty hard too! I'm not saying it can't be done, but it is highly unlikely it skipped a tooth.
You may have missed the keyway, or the key may have fallen out. Did you try to twist the pump to see if it runs better?

[Begle1]

I could move it to the head and see how much of a difference that makes. If anything I'm a tad above the factory timing mark.

Is there a way to determine if the key is in the keyway? I kind of figured that the key was important enough that it wouldn't run without it. I guess it is pretty close to not running.

I think my next step is pulling off the timing case cover and making sure the gear is on the right tooth, then making sure the key isn't in the bottom of the case...

[PToombs]

Oh, it'll run with out it! MMiller put his pump on, and used the old lock washer (big no-no). He got out on the trails wheeling, and the truck quit. Turns out the washer spit out, loosened the gear, sheared the key. He lined it up kinda close and the truck started. So he finished his day running around in the woods!

P-pumps don't have a key. Slot in the gear, not in the pump.

[One Big Doofus]

You can check your timing without removing the front cover by screwing two bolts in the pump gear, then lay a flat edge on the top of the bolts,..... The flat edge will be located just below the front cover bolt.
One tooth either way out of time and it will result in the flat edge being way off from this pic.

I haven't farted with timing pins in ten years when removing pumps,.... As long as the keyway is down and the ruler lands just under the bolt then it's close enuff for removal and install of the pump.

Set your timing pin and check it out by this ez method.

I set valves with this method also



Bolts screwed into the pump gear

Just under timing cover bolt

[One Big Doofus]

links don't work...

Try this
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-11/ ... C05473.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-11/ ... C05472.JPG

[dpuckett]

If you have a small mirror (a lady's makeup compact mirror or whatever works- Dont tell the g/f), you can remove the nut and lock washer and check to see if the slot in the pump shaft lines up with the slot in the gear.

Pete, getting it off by a tooth is more of a does-it-when-not-trying-to deal. I was in a bit of a hurry in my latter 93, and somehow got the gear retarded a tooth. Might have something to do with turning the engine over with the pump out.

Keep us posted. If you were closer, I'd go over and help ya out.

DP

[flashgordon]

links don't work...

Try this
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-11/ ... C05473.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-11/ ... C05472.JPG

A pic's worth a 1.000 words........thanks

Flash.

[Begle1]

Alright, I had the key smashed in half. Surprised I could smash a steel key like that...

So now it runs fine, again, but I still don't know what the problem was. Or what the problem is.

Don't know why it took so long to start the damn thing either.

[flashgordon]

Alright, I had the key smashed in half. Surprised I could smash a steel key like that...

So now it runs fine, again, but I still don't know what the problem was. Or what the problem is.

Don't know why it took so long to start the damn thing either.

With the fuel being sprayed in late, it's like trying to start a bad low compression diesel.
Compression(heat) is what fires the fuel............with the piston already going down the cylinder when the fuel sprays heat and compression is much lower then it should be.............................................Still don't explain why the injectors had such a hard time bleeding out.

Flash.

[dpuckett]

When reassembling the pump to the gear, it should slide on nice and gentle-like. If you have to put any appreciable pressure on it, realign stuff.

Glad you got part of it figured out.

DP

[PToombs]

Glad to hear you got it! I'll put the bill in the mail tomorrow!