VE fuel leak between case and hydraulic head

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VE fuel leak between case and hydraulic head

Postby bgilbert » Mon Dec 03, 2007 10:56 am

Friend of mine's injection pump has started a small leak between the hydraulic head and pump case. I know of the o-ring behind this that needs replaced, but I've never done one nor read how to do one. Seems like I read where someone (with the VE still on the engine) removed the injection lines, delivery valve holders, run/stop solenoid, loosened the screws that hold the hyd head to the case and pulled the head back slightly. Then with a dental pic pulled the o-ring over the square head and replaced it.

We experimented with a hydraulic head I have laying apart on the bench, and it sure looks like you'd stretch out the new o-ring way too much to where it wouldn't seal properly, let alone if you could even pull the head back far enough to get to the o-ring and not have anything fall out or out of place.

I figured at least we'll pull the pump to do the repair, it's easy to R&R a pump. Replace the o-ring on the backside of the pump while it's out and anything else that's easy to get to that is included in the DGK-121 seal kit. But my concern is how to do this repair of the hydraulic head o-ring, anyone? Thanks.
Bill Gilbert
85 D350 crew with 90 6BT intercooled Getrag 3.07's
93 D350 single cab Getrag 3.54's.
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Postby KTA » Mon Dec 03, 2007 11:24 am

It is a pump tear down job out on the bench. I can't see even attempting it opn the motor and not having pieces inside end up where they aren't supposed to be. :roll:
Fleet of Junk: 1989 D350 627rwhp 1300 tq B-1/Hx60 twins, KTA pump/injectors, ported head, BIG fuel supply. 13.75@ 109.5mph 1/4: 1992 W350 Cab-chasis, 1993 W350 ext cab cust.370 inj Hx40/16cm 290rwhp hydroboost brakes,1984 D350 crew-cab another project.
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Postby wannadiesel » Mon Dec 03, 2007 4:46 pm

Bill, have you seen the french VW VE teardown page?

http://translate.google.com/translate?u ... uage_tools
'93 D350 LE Club Cab dually, Getrag, 3.54 Pow-R-Lok with: DPS EDM's, HTT Stage IV/14wg, Con-FE, Snow Stage 2 water/meth, custom fuel pin, Walbro secondary fuel system.

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Postby PToombs » Mon Dec 03, 2007 5:16 pm

Super detailed pics! Except for the language differences, which you gotta figure out once in a while, it's a good write up! :D
pete

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Postby BobS » Mon Dec 03, 2007 5:42 pm

wannadiesel wrote:Bill, have you seen the french VW VE teardown page?

http://translate.google.com/translate?u ... uage_tools


WOW, that one hurts my head...
Try this one instead:
http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6694
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Postby flashgordon » Mon Dec 03, 2007 6:21 pm

I thing if i was attempting to build one of these pumps. I would save both of these links!!!!!!!!!!!!

Daves still has 100% of the pic's,..... and BobS version, is translated much better. ;)

Flash
91.0 non intercooled 3/4 ton 5sd ex.straight piped 16cm housing, timing bumped 1/16...Pump . Full power screw1/2 max with out removing the collar. Gear Vender over drive!
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Postby bgilbert » Wed Dec 05, 2007 6:11 pm

Thanks guys, I've seen that link before, but never had the time or the core to tear into one and learn how. If I could just find a complete cheap core! All the ones I come across are good and cost at least $250. That's too much IMO to tear into for learning. I do have a basket case pump - completely torn down into all it's pieces. I could try to put it back together with the help of that site 8) :D .
Bill Gilbert
85 D350 crew with 90 6BT intercooled Getrag 3.07's
93 D350 single cab Getrag 3.54's.
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Postby dpuckett » Fri Dec 07, 2007 5:22 pm

Doing the o-ring behind the head isnt a bad job. I'd think anyone who has done a gov spring job can do the o-ring. Just be careful with the shims and springs behind the head. I had the best luck holding the pump shaft at a 45* angle. Things didnt tend to come down so fast, yet you didnt have to pull stuff up and out, either.

Definitely take it off the truck. Put a gov spring in it while ya have it all apart and the seal kit there.

Daniel
His- 93 W250 club cab LE, auto to Getrag conversion, piston lift pump, 3.54 LSD. 400k+
Hers- 04 QC 4x4. Built auto, Triple Dog, Air Dog. Funny Round truck that aint so quiet.
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Postby Greenleaf » Thu Dec 13, 2007 10:49 am

The link is a good one. I had a friend copied each and every page then I took them and installed them all into plastic sleeves. Installed them into a three ring binder. I now the manual version.

If someone is so inclined, you could make a killing on selling them to the gen populus. Please give me 10% for the idea. And NO, I don't need one, mine is fine. (and I insured it against theft) ;-)

Please keep in mind, the pump has some part(s) that are different and or NOT used in our pump. Just an FYI (Look, I racked my brain trying to figure out what part(s) I lost!!! LOL )

The job of O ring R&R. OK, look here. If you want to replace JUST one O ring then go ahead. You'll be pulling that pump again to replace more. LOL Have fun.

Pull the ENTIRE pump down. Inspect EVERYTHING and replace ALL the springs and seals. If your pump operated fine, then freshen it up w/springs and seals. If it don't work, pull it down anyway to locate the damages. A pump shop will charge you for a rebuild. What was rebuilt and how do YOU know what was bad? LOL
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Postby bgilbert » Fri Dec 14, 2007 9:03 am

Greenleaf wrote:Please keep in mind, the pump has some part(s) that are different and or NOT used in our pump. Just an FYI (Look, I racked my brain trying to figure out what part(s) I lost!!! LOL )

Isn't that the truth. I'm putting together this pump I bought that was supposed to be complete but in a million pieces etc. Well according to the 103, 114 pump's exploded diagrams and that website I either have a bunch of stuff missing or each or some pump parts are pump/application specific etc.

I'm not very computer literate, I would pay someone to print out all those pages, but you know me, I'm cheap! Maybe I'll give it a try.
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Postby PToombs » Fri Dec 14, 2007 6:12 pm

Cheap?! :shock: Dry bearings make less noise than you when you gotta pay for something! ;) :lol:
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby TWorline » Fri Dec 14, 2007 6:31 pm

PToombs wrote:Cheap?! :shock: Dry bearings make less noise than you when you gotta pay for something! ;) :lol:


OUCH!!! :shock: :mrgreen: Bill you will need to use this emoticon in response to that one!:eye:
Tim Worline
1992 W250 Club Cab LE, S300 62/71, 5" stainless intake, 4" into 5" exhaust, ATS exhaust manifold, SDX 5X18 Injectors, AirDog 150, Borgeson shaft, Coolingmist Vari-cool, Con OFEK, 3" Stainless CoolerTubz, 354/749.

http://www.CoolerTubz.com/
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Postby PToombs » Sat Dec 15, 2007 3:15 pm

Bill knows I'm just pokin fun at him! ;) (I hope! :oops: )
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby Greenleaf » Mon Dec 17, 2007 7:50 am

LOL ROF

You's Guys.......

Crack me up.

GL
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Postby PToombs » Mon Dec 17, 2007 6:05 pm

Scott, isn't that what I'm here for? :lol:
pete

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