The black hole wants to be fed ! (head gasket ?)

[jethro]

OK ! Got the 60 LB springs which are going on now. Got the 17-22a head studs-
head is still on. Was planning on doing the studs with the head on. As far as I know
it is the original head gasket - 1993 but with 50K miles-
Ran it for about 10 hours before and did not see any leaks- though no boost on and no load.

I have the suspicion that if I take the head off to put on a new gasket on the head will "change shape" once the torque is off
and I will have to have it cut- opening a new can of worms. Would I be stupid to risk changing it simply because it is old- if it does not seem to be leaking ?

The engine is running really well as far as I can tell with it on the stand......
I am all ready going further with it than I had intended to......

( when I was in high school- my dad bought a 1925 pierce-arrow in untouched condition. he said - well we'll just raise the body up and clean the chassis a little and let it back down. 2 years later we ended up with a 98 point show car - took every single part apart and restored it one piece at a time...... so much for what we tell ourselves .... the engine was so smooth you could balance a nickel on edge and hand crank it and let it run- the nickel would not fall over ! amazing workmanship in 25 ! )

Tim

[dazedandconfused]

Honestly I would just run it if it was mine and not worry about it. Are you planning on turning up the engine?

[ellis93]

If it was and aluminum head I wouldn't chance it but being cast and never being ran hot,I'd slap a gasket on it and torque the head back down.

[PToombs]

I'd do the gasket too.
#1 is most of these trucks had issues with antifreeze oozing from below the thermostat housing.
Another is you are so close you will be pissed if it pops in a year or so.
And you can do a better job on tapping the holes with the head off.

[jethro]

Yes- I keep talking myself into doing whatever I think I would do later- cause its WAY easier on the engine stand now......
Most of my upgrades were intended to prevent yanking the thing out 6 months down the road.
So- yes that wee little voice in my dead is telling me the same thing.........
Are Cummins gaskets considered the best quality? (their new and improved version)
Several people like it better than the victor-reinz version......
Tim

[PToombs]

The Victor Reinz are just as good. That's what I put in mine. They are what all the Case equipment uses as original gaskets.

[Richie O]

The Victor Reinz are just as good. That's what I put in mine. They are what all the Case equipment uses as original gaskets.

I thought they made ketchup

[jethro]

OK-
I am heeding my inner child/diesel mechanic ......
Gonna do a new head gasket. Yes... its just TOO easy to do it now.

Going to try to find a cummins 3283335 (standard thickness)

There is a little flat on the edge of the block for an overhauler to stamp-letter in how much was shaved off it
has ever been reworked. Can I depend on that- or is there a way to verify the gasket thickness once I have the head off....
Can I just measure the gasket ? I assume it would be a little thinner than it started out...... what should a std. gasket measure that's been compressed for 23 years ? (yes I know that's a crazy question !

I am guessing that you will say to depend on how the block is (or is not ) stamped........

Tim

[SWI Don]

Get the one that looks like this. Its a Victor Reinz 4068. It matches what the guys are getting from Cummins right now at least according to some pics I have seen. Note the silver places along the bottom where the gasket is wrapped. I may have just the head gasket out of a set that I got but found out I needed the thicker one as my block had been decked. I haven't opened the set to see if it is the newer style or not. I don't think I can PM on this message board yet.




To see if your block has been decked there should be some X's either 0, 1, or 2 on the back side just below the head surface. Mine was on the RH side of the back of the block and was not real deep. I believe the block SN should be on the LH side in about the same location just other side.
0 - not decked
1 - decked 0.010
3 - decked 0.020



Don

[RCCUMMINS89]

Victor Reinz used to have a two piece pos gasket. I've been told that they have updated it, though. Looks means nothing.

[jethro]

Thanks for the info on the rear side of the block. I just cleaned and painted that area not too long ago
and I don't remember seeing any marks. (don't remember seeing a block sn either..?)
But I will check again with a strong light and magnifier.
I think I have located a good gasket about a mile from where I live.
I will continue doing the valve springs in the mean time.

Do I HAVE to take the injectors out of the head to change the gasket ?

Tim

[PToombs]

No, but if you pull the head and slide it across the bench when you set it down you will be!




The tips stick out of the head and will be broken off if you slide it on the bench. Guy at work did that many years ago, the boss wasn't happy to buy a new set of injectors.

[fatty]

What is the intended use of the engine?

I would just put the studs in and not worry about it. The worst that will happen is that the HG will pop and you'll have to replace it in the truck. That can be done easily enough and unless you plan on getting pretty crazy with boost and timing it'll probably never have an issue.

[jethro]

OOOOKKKKAAAAYYYY !!!!!!!
I get the picture on the injectors--- I expect those things are INCREDIBLY sensitive to being touched with
anything harder than a wet noodle ( I expect the slightest touch or bump near the orifice will crumple the
cross section of the spray hole....) probably similar to jet engine fuel nozzles can only be touched with a soft tooth brush)

I may order the little puller tool tomorrow from geno's (or build a home made one maybe)

I believe the gasket is OK- but it is 23 years old and it hasn't seen any load in maybe 10-15 years minimum-
(even though it only has 50K miles)
As it is going into an f-350- I am converned that once it gets shoe horned in there I wont have reasonable access
to the rear half of the head/block. And even if I do---- it wont be fun. The upgrades are about 80% for reliability and about
20% in case I want to bump it up a little with a fuel pin or SLIGHTLY better injectors. Don't need to be over 300 HP
(or maybe even 250) as I have a standard street ford f-350 clutch. It is meant to be a daily driver and go anywhere SUV
and maybe light duty work/welding rig. (if I get more into welding)
Im just trying to bulletproof it !

Thank you all for you kind feedback on all my questions- this is my first BIG diesel project- it has been fun so far.
If it turns out good- I might do another.

How about a restored 1947 ford 2 ton flat bed 4WD with a 6bt first gen. ? wouldn't that be cute ?
Or a similar year f-300 4WD with a 4bt ?

T

[PToombs]

OOOOKKKKAAAAYYYY !!!!!!!
I get the picture on the injectors--- I expect those things are INCREDIBLY sensitive to being touched with
anything harder than a wet noodle ( I expect the slightest touch or bump near the orifice will crumple the
cross section of the spray hole....) probably similar to jet engine fuel nozzles can only be touched with a soft tooth brush)

T

Not quite that soft, but close! I remember another story, A guy pulled a set of injectors and wanted to clean the tips. Took them to the wire wheel and proceeded to clean the soot off. Put them back in the machine and it wouldn't run. oops!

I'd do the '47! I have my grandfathers '53 ford F500 I learned to drive on. I'd like to restore it and put a 6BT in that.