should the valve pushrods look like this ?

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Re: should the valve pushrods look like this ?

Postby DMan1198 » Sun Jan 04, 2015 3:59 pm

Looks like heat discolouration due to welding to me
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Re: should the valve pushrods look like this ?

Postby PToombs » Sun Jan 04, 2015 5:34 pm

Put them all on a bench and even out the bottom with a straight edge, then see if any of the tops look shorter than the others. They don't look too bad to me either though.
pete

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Re: should the valve pushrods look like this ?

Postby jethro » Sun Jan 04, 2015 8:13 pm

I just remembered I have a 24 inch dial micrometer- I don't know what the length should be-
but I can see if they are all the same !

Will let you know the results......

Tim

OK just dialed each pushrod.
The 12 rods ranged in length from a low of 10.895 inches to a high of 10.906 inches.
3 of them were exactly 10.900
6 of them were +or - .oo2 of 10.900

I may upgrade them anyway to a one piece 4130 with a thicker wall-like a max-spool or similar. from what I have read-
a stronger pushrod is a win-win thing.

Tim
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Re: should the valve pushrods look like this ?

Postby Michael Yankovitch » Fri Jan 09, 2015 5:08 pm

That is perfectly normal. The pushrods are assembled by inductive/resistance welding process where the ends are pushed into the tube and welded simultaneously. That is why you see heat staining and the weird seam which you thought was a crack. I would be more concerned about the surface finish and condition of the socket and ball (even shape with no scoring or fretting). I would put them in some "vee" blocks with a dial indicator and check for run-out if your that concerned.
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Re: should the valve pushrods look like this ?

Postby jethro » Fri Jan 09, 2015 8:51 pm

OK- that's useful info to know about the induction welds......
I will rig up something to lay them in and dial indicate in the middle.

One other visual thing that bothered me was that it looked like the upper socket was tilted a little bit crooked
in the tube- like the socket is not "pointing" parallel the the bore of the tube body.

Tim
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Re: should the valve pushrods look like this ?

Postby oldestof11 » Sat Jan 10, 2015 11:34 am

Run FAR away from Maxspool and that narcissistic egomaniac.

Hamilton, Manning Motorsports are 2 I would heavily recommend for customer service and quality,
Jon
93 D250~ Mismatch of cheap parts, trying to look fast going slow
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Re: should the valve pushrods look like this ?

Postby DMan1198 » Sat Jan 10, 2015 2:38 pm

The Hamilton stuff is definitely a nice product. I've been running their springs and pushrods in my 4th gen for a while now, and have been very pleased
Ducati- professional nap taker, and thread derailer extraordinaire
Brownie: 80 dodge heavy half. Ghost cummins under the hood, and some sinister plans
The Roo Hunter: 93 w250, lifted, 2 whistle machines, and a bunch of other go fast goodies, uhh..... not there yet
Jaeger: 12 ram 3500. Lifted, exhausted, and fed an excessive quantity of air
The Huntress: 02 Jetta TDI. No muffler, egr, horsepower
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Re: should the valve pushrods look like this ?

Postby Michael Yankovitch » Sat Jan 10, 2015 6:33 pm

jethro wrote:OK- that's useful info to know about the induction welds......
I will rig up something to lay them in and dial indicate in the middle.

One other visual thing that bothered me was that it looked like the upper socket was tilted a little bit crooked
in the tube- like the socket is not "pointing" parallel the the bore of the tube body.

Tim


From your previous pictures, I couldn't see any issues. must be a very slight angle. If there is a severe angle to the socket when it was pressed/welded than it could cause irregular wear on the ball or socket. Compare it to your other ones that are aligned straighter and compare the ball on your rocker arms to the other ones. If they all look the same, I really don't see the need to be worried. Although I must say from personal experience, buying a genuine Cummins replacement part when in doubt gives you a warm fuzzy feeling. After suspecting the previous owner of my engine replaced the turbo with a Chinese "Ebay" turbo I bought a Holset CHRA. Feels good knowing I have a good quality part instaed of uncertainty.
(In progress project)
1978 GMC body swap onto 1991 non-ic Dodge W250 4x4 (A727, np205, D60 & D70 with 3.07s)
Full de-computerize. Removing PCM and simplifying wiring to its most basic form.
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Re: should the valve pushrods look like this ?

Postby jethro » Sat Jan 10, 2015 10:01 pm

OK....... I wont touch max-spool !
I may just do new cummins- depending how they price out compared to the other chrome-molly ones.....

Tim
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Re: should the valve pushrods look like this ?

Postby DMan1198 » Tue Jan 20, 2015 9:23 pm

Hamilton extreme duty pushrods are about $300 a set. I Figured for my goals they're worth it on 2 of my trucks at least
Ducati- professional nap taker, and thread derailer extraordinaire
Brownie: 80 dodge heavy half. Ghost cummins under the hood, and some sinister plans
The Roo Hunter: 93 w250, lifted, 2 whistle machines, and a bunch of other go fast goodies, uhh..... not there yet
Jaeger: 12 ram 3500. Lifted, exhausted, and fed an excessive quantity of air
The Huntress: 02 Jetta TDI. No muffler, egr, horsepower
DMan1198
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 2255
Joined: Sat Aug 10, 2013 6:26 am
Location: Slave Lake, Alberta
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