Timing marks on IP differ from pump to pump?

[JWNathan]

Tried searching but nothing really answered my question, are the timing marks on a VE pump different from pump to pump regarding application? The AG pump I'm installing on my '93 has a timing mark (on the outside mounting ear) is much further down away from engine compared to my factory IP. Are these added to a finished engine after it's been timed with a dial indicator? Thanks.
-Jesse

[RCCUMMINS89]

Yes they are.

[JWNathan]

Figured they were but wanted to verify. Hmm, time to start looking for the sleeve to mount an indicator. Wish I could get it to run in the first place to see how it behaves. It's acting right now as if it is severely retarded, white smoke and doesn't really even try to run. Advanced it all the way and it tries to catch but won't fire. Back to the drawing board!
-Jesse

[RCCUMMINS89]

Double check the keyway. You might have gotten it off a little, trust me it is very easy to do.

[JWNathan]

Yup verified that, looks just fine. I was worried about it as the original key was pretty buggered up when I pulled it all apart. Did get it to fire up, pretty embarrassed to say that I still had the idle screw adjust all the way out. Gave it a few turns and it fires and runs, still huge plumes of white smoke even if it idles realatively smooth. Any ideas Eric?
-Jesse

[RCCUMMINS89]

Try advancing the timing as far as you can and see if it helps.

[JWNathan]

Tried that, also took the shims outta the advance so there was barely any preload on the spring trying to see if it would try to go to full advance to help verify if the timing is that far retarded. Also giving it any fuel does nothing, picks up maybe a couple hundered RPM but that's it. Gonna yank the AFC housing off tomorrow and see if everything is moving in the pump, I was wondering if maybe that sliding collar that controls the fuel could be hanging up on the shaft. Need to study the cutaway drawings again to wrap my head around it all.
-Jesse

[RCCUMMINS89]

Timing, air, extremely poor injection pressure (such as bad injectors)..... can cause white.

[JWNathan]

I'm gonna pull the front end apart today to check the bolts, the cam retainer, stake the KDP. Maybe when hanging the pump I somehow managed to turn the gear. Several say it's flat out impossible but have heard that in a rare case there's enough room in some.

As for the injectors being bad, I hope not, just got them from you! Hahaha
-Jesse

[RCCUMMINS89]

Did you put the pump and injectors in at the same time?

[JWNathan]

Yes I did. Took forever to bleed out the air with doing both at once. Cracked the return and pumped until it leaked out there, then did the lines, after figuring out my no start (idle set too low) and got it to run, all but one injector seemed to bleed out real quick and had good snap when I opened the lines again while running. Now when I did #2 fuel would spray out as well as foam, not bubbles but foam.

Overall I'm still convinced it's a timing issue. One other thing that popped into mind was that this pump was a new take off and never had fuel in it before, some things were quite sticky. So perhaps the advance barrel is stuck in the housing not allowing any dynamic advance. Still wouldn't solve the problem but might be a step in the right direction.
-Jesse

[RCCUMMINS89]

Sounds to me like an air issue.

Run a hose from a tank of diesel (5 gallon bucket, or whatever), by passing everything and running it straight into the injection pump.

[JWNathan]

Thanks again for the help Eric. I'll try that out and see what happens. And the bane pump is stronger enough to pull fuel from a bucket a few feet away?

[RCCUMMINS89]

Oh yea, no sweat..... at least for idle, etc...

[JWNathan]

Nope no change, still skeeter killing clouds.

So last night I took the AFC housing off, made sure everything was moving as it should and re-comparing it to my original pump. Nothing seemed off, did take the opportunity to make a longer AFC pin and reverify my fuel screw setting.
-Jesse