turbo drain tube materials

[jethro]

put my turbo back together today and mounted it for the first time (re-clocked- cleaned and painted)
The oil supply line barely fit- (since the turbo is about 4 inches farther back now)

Was looking at the drain tube.
I found a copper pipe the exact same size as the steel one. The steel one has the diamond flange silver soldered into the tube.
I can un-solder it and possibly re silver solder it to the copper tube- which I can either bend to add copper elbows to make it go to the drain snout in block. Any good reason copper wouldn't work ? Only issues I can think of might be corrosion or fatigue resistance..... (can paint the outside- )

Another possibility I remembered was more unusual-
I have a piece of all stainless soft flexible air ( I think) hose. It is composed of 3 layers of stainless steel- inner - middle and outer.
One is a braided mesh, another is interlocking short tubes, and I cant remember what the other layer looks like.
Some how I guess it manages to be airtight. It is very flexible (at least as much as heater hose)
Anyone used this ?????? I believe it was terminated with silver soldered-on ends. (has none now)
I don't even know what this stuff is called ..... never seen a piece this long either......
It is about 3/4 ID and about 1 inch OD and about 5 feet long.....
I think it is like this (http://www.metraflex.com/flexmet_superflex.php )

Also- are there any rubber hoses (oil proof) with external braid that would be reliable enough ?

Tim

[PToombs]

When I built my twins I cut the stock drains and used copper to plumb it back in. I used 3/4" silicone heater hose to connect everything. It is oil and heat resistant and is almost the same as what our stock hose is.

[fatty]

I put a spacer between my manifold and turbo about 4 years ago and it made my stock oil drain too short. I just cut it in half and hose clamped a piece of hose that I got from a hydraulic shop in between the cut pieces. It hasn't given me a problem yet.

[jethro]

I heated up the flange and pulled it off (it is brass!)
I found a length of chrome-molly steel tube which fits perfectly back into the diamond.
I will cut and weld the bend areas to take it close to the block and forward to the dump tube.
I also remembered I had some surplus blue silicone heater hose which should make an OK connection.
I will try this for a while and see if it works OK.

The flexible stainless tube I had would probably work too but a little more trouble to attach.

Tim

[PToombs]

I thought about removing the flange from mine, then decided to just solder a copper bend on the end of the drain after I cut it back.

[jethro]

Ended up just welding one up out of some 3/4 seamed steel tubing. Put a bushing on each end to bring the diameter up just a little.
Seems to work OK.

T