AFC Valet Switch issues

[LandTug2]

Hi folks, hopefully this is the right area for this. I just finished building and installing my AFC valet switch. Was really excited about this. Jumped in and took it for a spin. Didn't notice any difference at all... crap. So disconnected the boost reference line completely and plugged the manifold port. Boost topped out at 20ish but the smoke and everything else seemed the same. So spun the fuel pin around (denny T stage 1) and tried it like that. This had the most change with power at about halfish and smoke was also down, which is what I was looking for for around town. So there isn't anyway for the fuel pin to be forced down without the reference tube right? I would really like this to work out. The solenoid is clicking off and I tested it with air pressure to make sure it was working, which it was. Any ideas?

[DodgeFreak]

Have you tried tightening the afc spring and backing the Allen screw out on the top of the afc?? Where does the slide pin ride on the fuel pin?? Is it at the bottom or part way on the ramp?

[LandTug2]

The allen screw is flush with the cover and the spring is two turns out from stock. The slide pin starts near the bottom and makes it most of the way up. To be honest it could go further in. I was under the impression that cutting the air to the afc would affectively cut the cuel to the engine meaning less power/ smoke but it seems like it is still able to draw the fuel in. I thought about throwing the stock fuel pin nack in to see if that would change anything. I am wandering since the front of the denny ts are a bit flat below the ramp instead of round that maybe it is kind of prefueling. Turning the fuel pin around kind of supported this

[Ryker Carruthers]

I put an electric solenoid on mine as well, I have a stock fuel pin that is ground on, the afc top is milled out, did some measuring to get it to where the inner pin rides on the bottom ring of the fuel pin at no pressure. The plastic washer on the fuel pin was removed too. I get full travel on the pin, with valet on it is a turd, will still smoke some till 11psi then it cleans up for the most part, I make 20 psi max with it on valet and 1000 degrees is all I have seen on the pyro. With valet off I hit 40 psi and can see 1450-1500 deg. Easiest way to see if it works is leave the valet on off, so boost applied to afc, mat the pedal and hit the switch. It should shudder and loose some go go power. then flip it back and it should come back. what switch exactly did you get? One with 3 ports? the afc should have atmospheric pressure applied to it with valet on so the solenoid needs to vent it.

[LandTug2]

I get the same sort of effect when I turned my fuel pin around... I am thinking I am going to have to go back through and take a look at getting the fuel pin to run properly. I tried flipping the switch while under boost and it didn't seem to make any noticeable difference. The solenoid I am running is this one: http://www.grainger.com/product/6JJ52?g ... 01171716:s. It is a three port, two way. I have it set up with "normally open". It is exhausting to atmosphere.

[Ryker Carruthers]

Is the afc spring to stiff? put some grease on the pin and run it, see how far the pin rubs off the grease.

[LandTug2]

Well when I drove it today I opened it up and in WOT you could definitely feel the difference. Boost went from 22 psi to 42 psi in a second and it pulled harder. Just 2asnt what I was expecting. Im thinking that the fuel pin design has alot to do with it. I wound up taking out the nylon callar and turning the starwheel down two more turns. Not sure if I see any noticeable difference.

[Ryker Carruthers]

Where is the star wheel at from stock?