Coolant, oil, exaust temps

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Coolant, oil, exaust temps

Postby spencerdiesel » Thu Oct 13, 2016 2:43 pm

With my mild fuel settings I can usually see around 1300 (more with higher outdoor temps) on the pyro before I get to 90. If I pull a 6% grade in the summer I can hold around 72 mph at 1250, but the factory dummy temp gauge climbs. I don't have an accurate gauge for coolant or oil temps, but I'd like to get a better radiator.

Big question: If one has proper air but makes higher hp and egts aren't nuts, can you still get warm on coolant temps? I'm wondering if a properly aired higher hp motor can still see high coolant temps because more air AND fuel is going in the combustion chamber, thus more pressure ect....

If you have a VE making 400 whp but only sees 1100 egt at WOT, will coolant temps be any different than a stock engine running 1100 egt?

*Basically, are engine temps and egts directly correspondent to each other, despite the hp the engine produces?*

Thanks
1992 W250, 5 speed, 4.10, Ext. cab Ext. bed, 12.5k winch, 75 gal. fuel tank

H1C/18

Fuel: THD 6x10 VCO sticks, THD 12 psi piston pump, THD fuel pin, 366 spring, fuel screw 2 turns in, timing to the head/ >1/4”
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Re: Coolant, oil, exaust temps

Postby Remps » Fri Oct 14, 2016 12:18 am

At a constant 400 hp the cylinder head, and the cam somewhat, are way out of their efficiency range, which means higher boost, higher cylinder pressure and temperature. Which can add more heat soak than the stock rad can deal with on a constant basis. Which leads to higher oil temps, which leads to higher coolant temps, which leads to still further higher oil temps..and trans temps if an auto with stock cooler. Advanced timing has the heat move lower in the engine as well. I'd recommend a 180* t-stat if you want to push a stock cooling system at 400 hp. Temps won't "snowball" as nearly as quickly, although a bigger rad would be best. I also recommend cleaning the stock rad fins (and a cooling system flush) before chucking it. Powdered laundry detergent packed in the fins will pull out 10x the dirt than straight water. To really do this properly the rad has to be pulled out and laid flat.
'90 D250 R/C,727,IC,6x.009's,1/8" bump,fuel psi,straight pipe w/5" stack.
'90 W250 R/C,47rh,K@N,HX35,1/8" bump,2nd gen IC,boost,egt,trans temp.3.07's.
'96 2500 S/C L/B,2wd,NV5600,3.54 L/S,cai,egt,pacbrake,mbrp exhaust,10 plate.
Bring back the Bank of Canada, PRE- 1974.
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Re: Coolant, oil, exaust temps

Postby spencerdiesel » Fri Oct 14, 2016 3:23 am

Thanks Remps. Any recommendations on a certain radiator?
1992 W250, 5 speed, 4.10, Ext. cab Ext. bed, 12.5k winch, 75 gal. fuel tank

H1C/18

Fuel: THD 6x10 VCO sticks, THD 12 psi piston pump, THD fuel pin, 366 spring, fuel screw 2 turns in, timing to the head/ >1/4”
Muffler delete

Minimum 60% WMO full time since Sep. 2018
spencerdiesel
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1106
Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2015 4:02 pm
Location: Brevard, NC
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Re: Coolant, oil, exaust temps

Postby Remps » Fri Oct 14, 2016 5:32 pm

The biggest one you can stuff in there. Possibly a 2nd or 3rd gen, or even a medium duty replacement rad could be made to fit, depends on how much fab work you want to do. I'd think some businesses must have rad measurements, specs, and inlet/ outlet orientation, to compare to the stock rad. Can only go so big before one would have to re-fabricate intercooler piping to accomodate a larger rad as well. I might test fit my 2nd gen rad on my W250 this winter, if I have to use it's head on the 1st gen.
'90 D250 R/C,727,IC,6x.009's,1/8" bump,fuel psi,straight pipe w/5" stack.
'90 W250 R/C,47rh,K@N,HX35,1/8" bump,2nd gen IC,boost,egt,trans temp.3.07's.
'96 2500 S/C L/B,2wd,NV5600,3.54 L/S,cai,egt,pacbrake,mbrp exhaust,10 plate.
Bring back the Bank of Canada, PRE- 1974.
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