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by **CDReyn** » Sun Mar 30, 2008 2:44 am

OK, I recently had a tighter torque convertor installed( an RV-HD one), and am pleased with how it drives empty, but am still getting sub-par mileage ( 16mpg) and upon towing the trailer for the first time today, was disappointed in the lack of power! From the start of the hwy on-ramp, it took almost 5 miles on level road to get up to 65mph! :cry:

at 70mph, I was dropping speed going up slight hills.. and fuel mileage dropped to around 10mpg..

I cant afford the 200 bucks for a pyro right now, so what can I safely do to the pump or elsewise to increase the power?
I am gonna bump timing up 1/8 as soon as I can find a wrench for that bottom bolt, but what else would help?

BTW the trailer was a 20 foot gooseneck with two QH's, so probably around 7000lbs total weight.... shouldnt have noticed it back there.......

by **cummins king** » Sun Mar 30, 2008 6:25 am

you can put the fuel screw all the way in or untill it runs away, star wheel, you can grind your fuel pin, these are all free options that will give you a some more HP, also a 16cm exhaust housing would really help, and that would help with mpgs and your etgs will be managable

by **bgilbert** » Sun Mar 30, 2008 7:38 am

CK did you miss the part about his 5 mile pull to reach 65mph?? With his stock settings for that period of time I bet the temp in his exhaust manifold held a steady 1250*. Now you're wanting him to fool with the pump with no gauges? I wouldn't touch it until you have a pyro. You might be ok after the first 5 miles, but by the time you reach the top of the first hill you'll be on the side of the road :roll:

.

Running around empty with a turned up pump and no gauges is one thing, but towing is completely different. Put a load behind them, start working them and you'll see.

Where you seeing a $200 pyro? I thought one could be had in the $120-$150 range? Then again its been a few years since I've bought one.

by **cummins king** » Sun Mar 30, 2008 10:29 am

what wrong with 1250, with the mods its only going to take him half as long to get to the speed

by **bgilbert** » Sun Mar 30, 2008 10:35 am

Nothing's wrong with 1250*. I'm just saying with stock setting's under load it will run there all day long. Now factor in a 'pump turn up', and you'll see more than the safe line of 1250*.

by **bgilbert** » Sun Mar 30, 2008 11:27 am

Nothing's wrong with 1250*. I'm just saying with stock setting's under load it will run there all day long. Now factor in a 'pump turn up', and you'll see more than the safe line of 1250*.

by **CDReyn** » Mon Mar 31, 2008 6:41 am

Bill, most of the ones I hve seen are in the 135 up to 189 range..
Dave sent me a list of things to check on, so thats a start, I just know that having an auto cant be making this much of a difference from teh way my past trucks with a 5 spd have run..
theres somethign out of whack in there! just got to figure out what..

and yes , I KNOW... I NEED a pyro asap...

by **seeker1056** » Mon Mar 31, 2008 9:58 am

I bought my autometer pyro off ebay brand new for $60.

There are good deals every day there.

No excuse not to have one

What does a motor cost? :cry:

by **burnt_servo** » Mon Mar 31, 2008 11:08 am

seeker1056 wrote:I bought my autometer pyro off ebay brand new for $60.

There are good deals every day there.

No excuse not to have one

What does a motor cost?

i'll second that , there's a bunch of pyrometer's on ebay under 100.00 right now ...... been looking for one myself lately .

by **CumminsPride** » Mon Mar 31, 2008 11:28 am

There's a digital one on there for 59.99 buy it now that is ready to go in.

by **CDReyn** » Thu Apr 03, 2008 3:48 am

You guys are making a very valid point..
going shopping today.....pyro and gauge pod...

by **dpuckett** » Thu Apr 03, 2008 10:40 am

CDReyn- yes the auto can make that much difference if the transmission is stock, or worse yet, a stock rebuild with sub-OE parts.

Daniel

by **CDReyn** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 2:14 am

dpuckett wrote:CDReyn- yes the auto can make that much difference if the transmission is stock, or worse yet, a stock rebuild with sub-OE parts.

Daniel

John from Floor-It Diesel installed a tighter TC for me and upgraded valve body, adjusted the bands and reported everything looked good in there, so i am satisfied the tranny is in good shape.
I checked all the stuff Wanna mentioned and turned the fuel pin. it seems to have helped so far, at least its more responsive to the throttle...havent checked fuel mileage yet.
While doing that, I found I am missing a nut on the pump to timing cover studs, and am beginning to think the timing isnt right..

I have a bid in on a Autometer pyro on Ebay and ordered a gauge pod,
but I think the next thing I need to do is check the timing and bump it up a bit.
Once I see where my EGTs are at, I may want to look at the fuel screw or a 3200 spring...
sound reasonable??

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