Offset turbo flange?

How the engine works

Moderators: Greenleaf, KTA, BC847, Richie O

Offset turbo flange?

Postby JimmieD » Sat Mar 10, 2007 5:42 am

Looking at installing a 4" exhaust right out of my H1C using a 3" to 4" adapter. That's going to put the downpipe right up against the wall, so wondering if anybody has seen some kind of offset flange/adapter, cast iron for turbo exhaust inlet, to let turbo move forward? Thought I saw some somewhere and can't find them now.... Thanks!
JimmieD
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 126
Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 12:02 pm
Location: Mid-Cal

Postby cumminsram » Sat Mar 10, 2007 8:33 am

To make my 4'' exhaust fit I just had to cut a 1'' lip that sticks out on the firewall and mine fit. Sorry dont know about the adaptor.
03 duramax reg cab 4x4 6sp blue, daily driver
93 w350 reg cab 4x4 5sp single wheel
sold: 1993 auto 4x4
SOLD:1990 power ram 250 4x4 5sp
cumminsram
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 106
Joined: Thu Jan 11, 2007 4:07 pm
Location: Northern Indiana

Postby JimmieD » Sat Mar 10, 2007 1:40 pm

Thanks, C/R. Mine will need an adapter from 3" to 4" right at turbo exhaust outlet, then my downpipe elbow. The space taken up by adapter will add at least 2.5" to 3.5", and that will put the downpipe elbow up against the firewall.

Fortunately it's an older truck that I just did extensive floor pan, firewall and cab support work to. Not all that big of a deal to pop out the floor section over there to clear downpipe, but an offset turbo flange seems easier, if I can find one. Thanks!
JimmieD
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 126
Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 12:02 pm
Location: Mid-Cal
Top

Postby dpuckett » Sat Mar 10, 2007 2:34 pm

I had a 3-4 adaptor, then installed it right at the end of the 90deg elbow bed. Trimmed the end of the stock DP just far enough back to install the clamp, welded it to the adaptor. It cleared the firewall nearly as well as the stock 3" piece (2" clearance or so). Wish I had a picture of the truck to show y'all.
His- 93 W250 club cab LE, auto to Getrag conversion, piston lift pump, 3.54 LSD. 400k+
Hers- 04 QC 4x4. Built auto, Triple Dog, Air Dog. Funny Round truck that aint so quiet.
dpuckett
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 2196
Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2007 4:33 pm
Location: Perryville MO
Top

Postby JimmieD » Sat Mar 10, 2007 3:43 pm

Thanks dpuckett! I may have just found the correct adapter that is only about 1" in transition from 3" to 4". This will solve the problem. My install is in a 60's Dodge truck so things are a little different from a normal 1st Gen. Thanks, and I'll post the part if I find it.
JimmieD
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 126
Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 12:02 pm
Location: Mid-Cal
Top

Postby PToombs » Sun Mar 11, 2007 4:20 am

I took a 3 to 4 adapter and cut the center transition piece out of it. Welded the flange to one end and elbow to the other. It figures that it is the worst looking weld on the exhaust, where you can see it! :roll:
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
User avatar
PToombs
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 11367
Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 6:13 pm
Location: Syracuse NY. Snow central!
Top

Postby JimmieD » Sun Mar 11, 2007 6:34 am

Thanks, Pete! Y'know, I've got a really great old Millermatic 35, been welding for 40 years, and my downpipe came out SOOooo ugly ha haha! Some days ya got it, and some days?

I couldn't find the part I needed because I was looking for a 3" to 4" ADAPTER, then I remembered 'plumbing' is different. I typed in 4" to 3" REDUCER in search and there it was! Instead of a long taper it's a no-transition reduction from 4" to 3".

http://www.supertruckusa.com/products/77620_962.htm

Price is right, and I hope it's a heavy enough wall thickness. This is not the 'adapter' that I mentioned above, but a different part.
JimmieD
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 126
Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 12:02 pm
Location: Mid-Cal
Top


Return to Engine

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 11 guests