engine wont shut off!

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engine wont shut off!

Postby rattlebox93 » Thu Jul 23, 2009 5:12 pm

ok im and idiot i treid taking the fuel pin OUT i put a bolt throught the diaphram hole and away i went ran great but puked fuel everywhere ok i put it back togeather and now the engine wont shut off i have power to the shut down soulinoid when the key is on and no power when the key is offit dont run nearly as good with the key off but ir run regardless so i have obvously broke somthing inside the pump any ides thanks dj
93 d350 extended cab dually, 5 speed, he351cw, industrial man ported, ported head, 60# springs, 6x16's, ballanced, coated slugs, lowerd comp, 354 spring, piston lp, 1/2 lines, con f, home made water in the works still not running but getting close
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Postby PToombs » Thu Jul 23, 2009 5:54 pm

Take the solenoid out and check the tip of the plunger. I bet you chipped it. Pushed enough fuel with the cone out that it ripped the rubber on the tip when you let off. You can put it in a drill and sand it down smooth again, but if you push lots of fuel it will do it again.

The other option is to remove the plunger and spring and hook a cable to the manual lever on the side of the pump.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby rattlebox93 » Thu Jul 23, 2009 7:46 pm

so i basicly need to turn the pump back down to keep sds's in it or just jerry rig a manual cable?...i really dont like either of those ideas but i guess i will just turn the truck back down :( what do the guys like urself and tworline bgilbert do with there high hp trucks do u guys use a cable? or are u using the electric sds? thanks dj
93 d350 extended cab dually, 5 speed, he351cw, industrial man ported, ported head, 60# springs, 6x16's, ballanced, coated slugs, lowerd comp, 354 spring, piston lp, 1/2 lines, con f, home made water in the works still not running but getting close
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Postby RumbleFish » Thu Jul 23, 2009 7:52 pm

if it were me, id turn the pump back down, or look for hp somewhere else. i despise the pull cable idea.
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Postby rattlebox93 » Thu Jul 23, 2009 8:51 pm

yeah i despise the pull cable my truck is way!!! to nice for that....i guess i need some bigger sticks then before i do to much i thought 235hp with a stock truck with cooler tubz and homade intake was pretty dam good tho lol
93 d350 extended cab dually, 5 speed, he351cw, industrial man ported, ported head, 60# springs, 6x16's, ballanced, coated slugs, lowerd comp, 354 spring, piston lp, 1/2 lines, con f, home made water in the works still not running but getting close
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Postby Begle1 » Thu Jul 23, 2009 8:56 pm

What's not nice about a pull cable? Mine looks factory and comes in handy all the time, not to mention it's more reliable and means that there is no electrical problem that can stall my engine, and that it opens up the shut-off solenoid port for a pressure gauge.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby RumbleFish » Fri Jul 24, 2009 6:31 am

personal preference. just like i dont care for mustard, tomatos, or the head games women play. for the love of god, all i want is a cheseburger with onion pickles lettuce ketchup and mayo, and a wife that doesnt belong in a mental institution. is that so difficult????
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Postby Ace » Fri Jul 24, 2009 7:04 am

RumbleFish wrote:personal preference. just like i dont care for mustard, tomatos, or the head games women play. for the love of god, all i want is a cheseburger with onion pickles lettuce ketchup and mayo, and a wife that doesnt belong in a mental institution. is that so difficult????

You expect too much! :lol:
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Postby PToombs » Sat Jul 25, 2009 5:06 am

Ace is right! :lol:

Rattlebox, bigger injectors don't chip the tips as bad as stockers. It's the backwash from when you let off that chips it. If you let off slow, (if you can remember it!) it won't do it. I cleaned the rubber off mine, welded up the small hole in the tip, and run it like that. Another guy I know welded a small nut to the end to keep the original length of the plunger. Mine still "diesels" to a halt every now and then, but usually it shuts right off.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby 1dumrednek » Sun Jul 26, 2009 10:16 am

My sds quit on me too after I had my pump rebuilt. I just said the heck with it and put a $14 cable on. Why does a guy wanna remove the rubber tip and spring if your running a cable?
A.J.
91.5 Power Ram w250 LE 5spd reg cab... totalled... again

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Postby Firstgen1 » Sun Jul 26, 2009 10:38 am

the same thing happened to my truck this weekend, where do you guys put the manuel shut off cable?

thanks
1993 w250 pin ground, 3 turns on fuel screw, starwheel maxed, custom intake,4in exhaust, guages, 16cm housing, piston lift pump, dtt converter, shiftkit, 35 psi of boost
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Postby PToombs » Sun Jul 26, 2009 3:26 pm

You remove those parts so they don't get in the way. More rubber can erode off and plug things up downstream.


The cable goes on the lever on the fender sider just below the AFC housing.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby Firstgen1 » Sun Jul 26, 2009 5:05 pm

ok, where do you guys put it in the cab

thanks
1993 w250 pin ground, 3 turns on fuel screw, starwheel maxed, custom intake,4in exhaust, guages, 16cm housing, piston lift pump, dtt converter, shiftkit, 35 psi of boost
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Postby 921stgen » Sun Jul 26, 2009 5:16 pm

I put one where the power mirror switch is on LE trucks, and one beside the piece under the steering column that holds the fuse box, there is about an inch of flat space that is sqaure with the dash.
91 W250 pods, , pull cable, Isspro FP gauge, Isspro boost, pyro, 366 spring, 91 W350, sold-92 W250, 40 hp Injectors, Bully Dog Fuel Pin, Isspro-tach, boots, pyro, AM electric fp gauge, 3200 GS, 5" AEM intake, 4" exhaust 5" stack
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Postby bigred cummins » Tue Jul 28, 2009 9:10 pm

Yup, shutoff solenoid is bad. Shave down the edges like some of the other members have suggested.
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