Manual Shut Off Installation

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Manual Shut Off Installation

Postby Begle1 » Wed Apr 04, 2007 4:20 pm

1. I've heard people talking about using it as a anti-theft device; is it common to rig it with some kind of lock so the spring on the lever doesn't pull the cable back automatically?

2. What's the best way to secure the cabe to the hole in the lever? Trying to do this the "non-hillbilly" way. If that's possible.

3. Where do most of ya'll route the knob to? Any pictures of how you routed it to the engine?

4. Anybody ever have the little spring on the lever wear out from everyday use?

Thanks...
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby Rebel Ram » Wed Apr 04, 2007 7:17 pm

I dont have any pictures but I'll try to paint a "mental pic". There is a 3/8" hole in the support brkt at the rear of the pump. There is a 1/4" hole in the shutoff lever. Take a 3/8" bolt and drill a hole down the long centerline to allow the pull wire to fit through. Then drill into the same hole about 1/4" deep at the threaded end the dia of the cable liner. put this bolt in the brkt. (bolt head toward pump)Take the 1/4" bolt and run a nut up to the shank and snug. Drill a hole in the shank 1/8" away from the threads big enough for the pull wire to pass through. Then cut the head of the bolt off leaving the threaded portion and the part of the shank with the hole. Install the 1/4" bolt in the shutoff lever with the shank part facing the fender. Use a nylock nut on the back side and tighten it just so the bolt can swivel enough too opperate but not be loose. From here you can use a simple choke cable setup with a brass barrel to crimp onto the cable wire to activate the lever. I mounted mine next to the hood release.
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Postby Begle1 » Sat Apr 07, 2007 6:26 pm

Alright, I got a flash of inspiration...



I attach the fuel shut-off lever...

To the parking brake.


So when the parking brake is totally down, the lever is pulled. No extra handle retired.


I couldn't use my emergency brake on the street anymore is the only problem. BUT, my emergency brake's don't work worth a crap anyways...
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby Rebel Ram » Sat Apr 07, 2007 7:36 pm

I like that idea. I just need to find a decent cable and housing. The cheapy choke cable is not very smooth.
"Big Ugly"-93 3/4 T extra cab 4X4 5 speed
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Postby PToombs » Sun Apr 08, 2007 12:33 pm

Parking brake is a good idea! :idea: Security wise, who would think of releasing the brake to start? You could use the brake, just add a spot for the shut off cable to attach. If your p-brake doesn't work, may need to adjust up the rears, makes a big difference.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby TWorline » Sun Apr 08, 2007 1:48 pm

PToombs wrote:Parking brake is a good idea! :idea: Security wise, who would think of releasing the brake to start? You could use the brake, just add a spot for the shut off cable to attach. If your p-brake doesn't work, may need to adjust up the rears, makes a big difference.


Pete that is a very good ideal! That would also keep the cables loosened up so they don't rust fast, I think you need a Gold Star for that one :!:
Tim Worline
1992 W250 Club Cab LE, S300 62/71, 5" stainless intake, 4" into 5" exhaust, ATS exhaust manifold, SDX 5X18 Injectors, AirDog 150, Borgeson shaft, Coolingmist Vari-cool, Con OFEK, 3" Stainless CoolerTubz, 354/749.

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Postby Begle1 » Sun Apr 08, 2007 6:30 pm

TWorline wrote:
PToombs wrote:Parking brake is a good idea! :idea: Security wise, who would think of releasing the brake to start? You could use the brake, just add a spot for the shut off cable to attach. If your p-brake doesn't work, may need to adjust up the rears, makes a big difference.


Pete that is a very good ideal! That would also keep the cables loosened up so they don't rust fast, I think you need a Gold Star for that one :!:


Hey man, that's my Gold Star idea...


I decided against it in case I'm ever on the road and watch my oil pressure drop to zero, or something like that... I think there's a big enough chance to have to shut-down while not wanting to lock up your rear tires.

And, ya' know, drifting becomes more difficult.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby TWorline » Sun Apr 08, 2007 7:33 pm

Whoops :oops: sorry Begle1, I did not read the post that you put that ideal out. So you get the Gold Star that is a good ideal!
Tim Worline
1992 W250 Club Cab LE, S300 62/71, 5" stainless intake, 4" into 5" exhaust, ATS exhaust manifold, SDX 5X18 Injectors, AirDog 150, Borgeson shaft, Coolingmist Vari-cool, Con OFEK, 3" Stainless CoolerTubz, 354/749.

http://www.CoolerTubz.com/
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Postby PToombs » Mon Apr 09, 2007 2:48 pm

OH, to have, and then taken away..... Screw it! I'm no poet. :wink:
pete

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Cable and housing

Postby moab4x4 » Sun Oct 14, 2007 3:06 am

Find a hood release cable at a junk yard. I live in my junkyard and pulled the hood release cable from an old Dodge Colt. The hood release mechanism from the Colt was modified to bolt to the 3.8 hole on the back of the IP so the cable management at the business end was already taken care of. I mounted the handle between the Hood release and parking brake release levers in the cab. It just looks like an extra hood release cable but will shut off the engine. :)

No security system like your other ideas, but the cable quality is pretty good.
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Postby BEARKILLER » Sun Oct 14, 2007 9:08 am

:arrow: I often set the brakes and leave the engine running.

That would not be possible if setting the brakes killed the engine. :roll:

If you want something thieves will have a hard time figuring out, install a cam-lever cable in an inconspicous place.

Also, a shut-off valve in the fuel line will see that they don't get far.

My truck will only idle a few seconds, before the lack of fuel shuts it down.
MY TRUCK = 1985 FORD F-350 2wd, 89 1st.Gen.Cummins,Getrag 5-sp,Dana70 3:55

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#4 = 1991 D-350 LE Getrag
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