full power screw

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Postby 1991cummins » Fri Jul 20, 2007 8:55 pm

another question... with the stock injectors on an intercooled model will it be able to run away or will it need bigger injectors to do it
1991 D350, reg cab, five speed, 4" dp 5" mitre cuts, 32 gsk, pump max, piston lp, POD injectors, S300, 3" cooler tubz, coolingmist, boost, pyro and tach... dually rockstars black, and custom fit 2nd gen towing mirrors
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Postby PToombs » Sun Jul 22, 2007 4:49 am

Oh yeah! Some trucks will runaway, some won't. It's all in the pump, how worn, how it reacts, etc. Never take a chance!

I just saw the other question! The fuel screw is on the engine side of the pump, near the back. It has a thin metal cover on it. If you take the cover off, you can see the hex head and the lock nut. The screw goes into the cover, not the main body of the pump. The idle screw is towards the front more. You will need to turn that down if you turn the fuel in.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby 1991cummins » Sun Jul 22, 2007 11:19 am

thanks with the stock injectors how much more power do you think i can get out of that pump
1991 D350, reg cab, five speed, 4" dp 5" mitre cuts, 32 gsk, pump max, piston lp, POD injectors, S300, 3" cooler tubz, coolingmist, boost, pyro and tach... dually rockstars black, and custom fit 2nd gen towing mirrors
1991cummins
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Postby Power Ram Man » Sun Jul 22, 2007 1:27 pm

i done it with tomtoms help over the phone i turned the full power screw until it hit the collar believe me it was frustrating but i got it and wow the power i got i can realy power brake and acually break loose on pavment!!!
92 3/4 Cummins with coverted getrag 5 speed, 4x4 PODS,3200 Gov spring,16cm housing, 4inch exhuast homemade downpipe, water meth,hx35 turbo,5 inch stainless intake with AFE filter, fuel turned up, timing bumped boost,pyro guages, Denny T fuel pin,coolertubz,piston lift pump
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Postby PToombs » Sun Jul 22, 2007 4:03 pm

1991cummins wrote:thanks with the stock injectors how much more power do you think i can get out of that pump


You should get close to 300 pretty easy. I'm around there and I still have stockers.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby 1991cummins » Tue Jul 24, 2007 2:32 pm

does anybody know of a good way to get the cover off... ive tried pullin on it, ive tried vice grips, ive tried even prying it off but nothing works
1991 D350, reg cab, five speed, 4" dp 5" mitre cuts, 32 gsk, pump max, piston lp, POD injectors, S300, 3" cooler tubz, coolingmist, boost, pyro and tach... dually rockstars black, and custom fit 2nd gen towing mirrors
1991cummins
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Postby 1991cummins » Tue Jul 24, 2007 4:19 pm

nvm that... i just clamped down onit with vice grips and started yankin the $hit out of it, and twisting it around and it finaly came off
1991 D350, reg cab, five speed, 4" dp 5" mitre cuts, 32 gsk, pump max, piston lp, POD injectors, S300, 3" cooler tubz, coolingmist, boost, pyro and tach... dually rockstars black, and custom fit 2nd gen towing mirrors
1991cummins
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Postby PToombs » Tue Jul 24, 2007 4:36 pm

Oh Yeah! If all else fails, beat the piss out of it! :lol:

Glad you got it off! Now take the screw out and remove the collar, it's spot welded on. :wink:
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby 1991cummins » Tue Jul 24, 2007 5:19 pm

thats a good theory lol, but anyways, once its turned all the way up will i have any temp issues, i dont have the money for gauges, but their next on the list, but with it up all the way should it be safe or should i wate till i get guages :?
1991 D350, reg cab, five speed, 4" dp 5" mitre cuts, 32 gsk, pump max, piston lp, POD injectors, S300, 3" cooler tubz, coolingmist, boost, pyro and tach... dually rockstars black, and custom fit 2nd gen towing mirrors
1991cummins
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Postby 1991cummins » Tue Jul 24, 2007 5:27 pm

do i take the screw out or the entire bolt and everything, cause i thought i just took everything out and then took off the collar so that i dont lose the known position
1991 D350, reg cab, five speed, 4" dp 5" mitre cuts, 32 gsk, pump max, piston lp, POD injectors, S300, 3" cooler tubz, coolingmist, boost, pyro and tach... dually rockstars black, and custom fit 2nd gen towing mirrors
1991cummins
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Postby gman07 » Wed Jul 25, 2007 12:01 pm

Yes, when you turn it up the EGT's will go up... how much depends on the pump, but maxing out pretty much any pump will create big issues. Get a pyrometer on there.

Take the nut off, then mark the threads to remember where to put it back. Take the screw off, get the lock collar off, clean the threads if necessary, and put the screw back in.
1992.5 W250 pump tweaked, straight pipe, gauges, 3200 Gov. spring, AFC lever partially ground, timed at 1/8", Fuel pin ground, BHAF, HTT Stage IV H1C/E 60/12wg (ported), Transgo shift kit, KDP clothes-hangered, 202,000 miles - 36psi, 1250°
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Postby PToombs » Wed Jul 25, 2007 4:33 pm

Don't turn it in until you get gauges! At least get a pyro, then you know what it's doing. If you melt it, it'll cost more than gauges. :shock:
pete

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Postby TWorline » Wed Jul 25, 2007 5:18 pm

What Pete said! I recently tore a Cummins 8.3 down, it had #3 & #6 piston melted, not a pretty sight at all. If you do that on a 5.9 it would cost you a new motor, some of the grooves in the sleaves were 1/8" deep. :shock:
Tim Worline
1992 W250 Club Cab LE, S300 62/71, 5" stainless intake, 4" into 5" exhaust, ATS exhaust manifold, SDX 5X18 Injectors, AirDog 150, Borgeson shaft, Coolingmist Vari-cool, Con OFEK, 3" Stainless CoolerTubz, 354/749.

http://www.CoolerTubz.com/
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