Broke fuel screw/is my inj. shop dumb?

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Broke fuel screw/is my inj. shop dumb?

Postby RumbleFish » Mon Jul 30, 2007 2:31 pm

So my fuel screw is broke off inside my pump (thats a story I'm not getting into here :oops: but its not what you think). Getting inside the IP is sort of intimidating me. So I go over to the local injection shop and tell them whats going on. He says he can remove it from the truck, open it up, and put it all back together for the cost of parts and $500 labor. I poo'd down my leg. He said he really didnt want to do it on the truck. I said fine, then while you are in there, how's 'bout a 3200 spring? He replies with a reaffirming "huh?". He literally had no idea what I was talking about. I said its a governor spring that will allow the motor to go to 3200 rpm, and he tells me that it should already with a stock spring. Then he says all I gotta do is turn a screw to get more rpm out of it. WTF?!?!

Should I attempt to do it myself? I've never been inside a pump, and I'm kinnda afraid of screwing it up more. I'm not sure where another injection shop is, and if I did, who knows if they are better or worse than this one?

To make it all worse, my better half says "see, I told you you should get a newer truck...this one is nickel and diming you to death."

ARGGGHHHHH :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:
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Postby 90firstgen » Mon Jul 30, 2007 2:40 pm

The shop I went to had no idea you could swap springs either. They told me it was a bad idea because stretching rods is a possibility. I just gave them a part number and told them to do it lol.
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Postby wannadiesel » Mon Jul 30, 2007 3:32 pm

$500's not too hateful if he's going to R&R the pump for you, but I think you can do it yourself.

If the pump's not leaking or running away, you can just leave the broke off stump in there indefinitely. :)
'93 D350 LE Club Cab dually, Getrag, 3.54 Pow-R-Lok with: DPS EDM's, HTT Stage IV/14wg, Con-FE, Snow Stage 2 water/meth, custom fuel pin, Walbro secondary fuel system.

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Postby RumbleFish » Mon Jul 30, 2007 3:55 pm

Yeah, its leaking pretty bad. It broke right at the skinny part where the o-ring sits. I just don't want to get in over my head and make things worse.

Now where is that puking smilie?
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Postby PToombs » Mon Jul 30, 2007 4:46 pm

Jeff, it's not that bad. I was really nervous too. Follow the directions to remove the top. (i know you've seen them) Make sure to write down where the index marks are. Brakleen and air help to clean them. Since you can't back out the fuel screw ( :roll: ) It will make a SNAP when the top comes off. Push the throttle shaft out of the cover, THEN remove the gov spring. (way easier!) Then grab the end of the screw and turn it out. (Obviously it's got to go out the way it came in.) Put in new gaskets, o-rings etc., new 3200 spring. Leave the screw backed off, put the throttle shaft in the cover, put it on. Assemble everything. Bleed system. Turn the fuel screw in to about where you think. Get a helper with a board to prevent runaway, then start it. You may need to give it some throttle if it doesn't start, if it starts giving it gas, you need to re-index the throttle. If you have any problems, call Scott! :lol:
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby Begle1 » Mon Jul 30, 2007 4:55 pm

WOO HOO!!!

I felt really stupid when the exact same thing happened to me a couple weeks ago... I had to get towed 40 miles home and everything...

But now I'm not alone! YIPPEE!!!


The good news is that a couple hours gets it out, and a 3200 spring in there while you're at it.

This picture is worth a thousand words. The screw in the upper left is the (broken) fuel screw; you can grab it with pliers from the inside and it threads right back out. The spring hanging there is the governor spring.

There are only 4 bolts that hold the top piece to the bottom piece of the pump; as long as you have a set of metric Bondhus drivers they are a breeze. The hard part is the governor spring; half is attached to the top-hat assembly in the bottom of the pump, and the other half is attached to a nug on the top of the pump (as seen in the above picture). You have to put the spring on the top hat, then hold the top of the pump in such a way that the attachment point is as close as possible to the top hat, and then you use needle-nose pliers in your other hand to attach the spring to the nug. Then you carefully rotate the top of the pump 180 degrees so it is orientated correctly, and you hold it there while you reinstall the bolts with your Bondhus drivers.

Here is the guide that most people use.
http://dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/Governor ... index.html

Alright, the part number for the full power screw is 1-463-402-423(-000). It costs $20. (I carry a spare in my glove box now...)
The part number for the governor spring is, according to DTR's list, 1-464-650-366. That should cost a little under $20.

Note that the O-ring doesn't come with the screw. A seal kit is DGK-121, but that has more seals and pieces than I even begin to know what to do with... I don't think the O-ring is really a generic metric size, but my stock O-ring went bad a few months back and I pulled a generic one out of a box at the local speed shop and it sealed fine. I forget what size it was, though...
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Re: Broke fuel screw/is my inj. shop dumb?

Postby mhuppertz » Mon Jul 30, 2007 5:25 pm

RumbleFish wrote:To make it all worse, my better half says "see, I told you you should get a newer truck...this one is nickel and diming you to death."
ARGGGHHHHH :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:


Don't you just hate that? My wife called my truck "The Big Red Money Pit" until I set her down and did some new truck payment and insurance math.. She got a little more patient after that...
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Postby 2muchtq » Mon Jul 30, 2007 5:44 pm

I just learned how to do the governor spring. When you take the pump top off... you will be attached by the spring. Get an extra set of hands. Where the spring is attached to the lower portion of the pump is a tophat. Hold the thing toward the front of the motor while someone takes the gov.spring off. If you dont it will make use of the little spring attached and fling across the engine compartment.


Just an FYI.


Mark
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Postby MikeThomas » Mon Jul 30, 2007 6:28 pm

Do not fear the pump, if you make a mistake you go back and fix it...simple. DTR has a good write up in the sticky so check that out. All the instructions make it sound like a scary thing, but as soon as you start you realize its about as simple as anything else under the hood. You will never learn unless you do it, plus you will save 500 dollars!
1993 W250, 5SPD, ne370's, HTT STAGE IV/14wg, DennT Pin, BHAF, P-PUMP, PUMP TWEEKS, 4" EXHAUST, 366
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Postby RumbleFish » Mon Jul 30, 2007 6:59 pm

Do I want to pull the pump off the motor to do this? Philip told me I can pop the top off while leaving the pump on the motor, but he says it takes long skinny fingers (thats not me) and some cut down allen wrenches. I think I would feel more comfortable with the pump on a bench in front of me, but if thats a bunch more work then I won't bother. What the heck is a Bondhus driver?
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Postby TWorline » Mon Jul 30, 2007 7:03 pm

2muchtq wrote:I just learned how to do the governor spring. When you take the pump top off... you will be attached by the spring. Get an extra set of hands. Where the spring is attached to the lower portion of the pump is a tophat. Hold the thing toward the front of the motor while someone takes the gov.spring off. If you dont it will make use of the little spring attached and fling across the engine compartment.Mark


If you push the throtle shaft down threw the pump top as Pete wrote, you do not have that problem or the problem of getting everything lined up upon reassembly. Jeff would you like some help? I can still come to Indiana, I think. :wink:
Tim Worline
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Postby Begle1 » Mon Jul 30, 2007 7:06 pm

"Bondhus" drivers are the Allen wrenches with the balls on the ends, so you can get to the allen-headed bolts from an angle.

Image

If you have big hands it's a sign that you have enough strength to break the bolts loose.

Taking the pump off would more than double the amount of time the job takes; it's just 4 bolts and a spring holding on what you need to take off.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby MikeThomas » Mon Jul 30, 2007 8:49 pm

Do it in the truck. When you go to do it, loosen the pump and retard the timing as much as possible (pull pump away from the head). It will allow even the fattest of fingers in there. Just get a couple 5mm allen wrenches and cut them different lengths to find the best setup, and the ball allen drivers do speed things up.

PS. I did not intend on any innuendos in this post :lol: :oops:
1993 W250, 5SPD, ne370's, HTT STAGE IV/14wg, DennT Pin, BHAF, P-PUMP, PUMP TWEEKS, 4" EXHAUST, 366
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Postby bgilbert » Mon Jul 30, 2007 9:56 pm

Didn't pay attention last SOP during VE class eh :wink: ?? If you could get it to me I'd be happy to fix it for you.
Bill Gilbert
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you dont

Postby seeker1056 » Tue Jul 31, 2007 5:21 am

you dont need to do all that friggen around with the spring tryin to git it attached to the tophat assembly

You attach the top hat to the spring first - then slip the spring/tophat down the slot in the arm, and then pull forward to seat it, Removal is the same.

its a piece of cake to do - dont know why nobody figured this one out years ago.

Yes the ball socket allen wrench makes life very easy - no need to unbolt and rotate the pump or anything.

I might a been an hour start to finish puttin in my spring.
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