kubota

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kubota

Postby txs » Tue May 29, 2012 5:39 am

Neighbors got a b7100 hst kubota for sale, went over with hot battery last night and got it started. Had to crank a long time but it finally took off, noticed a lot of blowby coming out vent tube while cranking. Tractor sat for about 3 years, stuck oil rings or run away like the wind? Widow woman askin 2000, it needs front tire and water pump. It does have 3 point blade, 3 point finish mower and newer kelly loader with it.
93 w250 6 speed 4" exhaust, caution, work truck, she's no beauty. building 1 ton dually 4x4, dana 80, 48rh, 205 Scratch the one ton, bought frt. dually 4x4 98 12 valve with the tiny rear doors. rides so much better than the 93.
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Re: kubota

Postby ellis93 » Tue May 29, 2012 6:46 am

I'd buy it in a heart beat. They're really good little machines. Far as the blow by, I'd run it and see what happens. Could be as simple as stem seals.
93 D250 ,5 speed,4.11s,k&n autometer tach pyro trans boost guages,GDS 60mm h1c 14cm,honed 5x10,hplp/reg,1/8 timing,M+H M2 fuel pin, tims cooler tubz
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Re: kubota

Postby dazedandconfused » Tue May 29, 2012 7:39 am

We got one that had allot of blow by and found they had run gas in it. Had injectors gone through and 3 new pistons and rings.
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Re: kubota

Postby oldestof11 » Tue May 29, 2012 2:30 pm

IF you have to pull the head, don't pay anymore than $1000. To rebuild will cost you $600 in parts. I know this from experience. My father in-law ended buying a B7100 standard trans with a 60" Wood 3pt mower for $1900.

BTW, there is no water pump on these things. They operate by thermosiphoning. Water gets hots and rises up to the highest point, the top of the radiator and cools on its way down through the radiator. If it needs a radiator, $500 from Kubota, $350 on Fleabay. Radiator cleanliness is VITAL to it running right.

The old tractor that dropped a cylinder sounded like a cheby with an exhaust, bubbly. New(er) tractor with all 3 cylinders working sounded a little more crackly. It takes the new one only 0-10 seconds on the glow plugs and 10 seconds of cranking to get it to start. Old one took 1 min of glow plugs and about that long to crank before it started catching.

Good luck! Like I said, no more than $1000. You can find good running ones for $2000 with a mower, $2500 with loader and mower.
Jon
93 D250~ Mismatch of cheap parts, trying to look fast going slow
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Re: kubota

Postby dazedandconfused » Tue May 29, 2012 5:04 pm

We got $3400 out of ours with rebuilt motor, new tires and the belly mower. Kubota is proud of there parts by the way.
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Re: kubota

Postby ellis93 » Tue May 29, 2012 6:18 pm

I think that's a good deal with the equipment that's with it. I sell that kinda stuff all the time. I find them(or like it)on the Ms market bulletin,buy them,fix and paint as needed. I'd bet,dollars to donuts,he could sell that thing fixed up for 4500 or more, in good working order.
As far as parts, if bought thru Tisco,they're not that bad. I've had dealings with the radiators but have always had them fixed.
93 D250 ,5 speed,4.11s,k&n autometer tach pyro trans boost guages,GDS 60mm h1c 14cm,honed 5x10,hplp/reg,1/8 timing,M+H M2 fuel pin, tims cooler tubz
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Re: kubota

Postby ellis93 » Thu May 31, 2012 5:25 am

Turd pic of a listing this morning,I need a better phone :lol:

Image
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Re: kubota

Postby dazedandconfused » Thu May 31, 2012 6:47 am

Just depends on the area i guess as to what they go for. Around here they go cheap.
Big Andy
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Re: kubota

Postby txs » Thu May 31, 2012 1:47 pm

thanks for the input guys, friend in tenn says same thing, that tractor dont have water pump. the little bugger started hard, had to crank a long time, but i didnt know how to turn on the glow plugs so that might help. i think im gonna try to scrape up the money.
93 w250 6 speed 4" exhaust, caution, work truck, she's no beauty. building 1 ton dually 4x4, dana 80, 48rh, 205 Scratch the one ton, bought frt. dually 4x4 98 12 valve with the tiny rear doors. rides so much better than the 93.
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Re: kubota

Postby PToombs » Thu May 31, 2012 5:13 pm

Tom, try turning the key backwards. The other option I have seen is off, on, glowplug, and start. Spring loaded in glowplug and start position, you think you're in start and go right thru glowplug without realizing it.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Re: kubota

Postby Diesel » Sat Jun 02, 2012 3:06 pm

I got a kubota engine in my bobcat. They aren't cummins thats for sure so it requires thinking to start them. Try this:

Set throttle to full
Turn key backwards for about 45 seconds (you want to get the cylinder hot because they don't fire on compression cold anywhere near as well as our trucks)
Immediately turn the key to start.
If it catches then good. If it doesn't catch and stumbles immediately turn the key back to plugs. After another 10-15 seconds of glow plugs try to start again.

Once it starts pull the throttle back.
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Re: kubota

Postby 49COE » Thu Jun 07, 2012 3:45 am

If you do end up getting it, make sure that you keep an attachment on the 3 pt while using the loader, or better yet, make a weight. Loaders on small tractors are nearly useless without some tail weight. Potential congratulations on your new machine.
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Re: kubota

Postby PToombs » Wed Jun 13, 2012 5:28 pm

Tom, did you get it?
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Re: kubota

Postby txs » Sun Jul 01, 2012 5:12 am

Pete, i bought it yesterday ( 6-30 ) went and got tire for the front and went to put it on and the kid at the tire shop mounted it backwards. They closed at noon so it will be monday before anything happens. I'm thinking pull the radiator and have it boiled out?
93 w250 6 speed 4" exhaust, caution, work truck, she's no beauty. building 1 ton dually 4x4, dana 80, 48rh, 205 Scratch the one ton, bought frt. dually 4x4 98 12 valve with the tiny rear doors. rides so much better than the 93.
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Re: kubota

Postby PToombs » Sun Jul 01, 2012 4:52 pm

Probably won't hurt anything. Maybe pull the cap and see how it looks? Or see what kinda crap comes out when you drain it.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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