The PROPER (OEM) manual tools, along with a pipe for a breaker are all you need on the roadside.
That would be the stock Budd wrench and crack bar, or something equivalent for a crack bar.
If you're bending stock crack bars, then the nuts are too tight.
Also, an impact is not the way to torque the lugnuts down, or, really to remove them, it rattles the splines in the studs loose, though a BIG impact is LESS likely to do that on REMOVAL only because there's less impacts per minute.
I can't tell you how many trucks I have had that ended up needing new rear studs because some idiot (s) felt they HAD to torque the nuts down with a 3/4" impact and stretch the crap out of the studs, so the next poor schmuck comes along and spins the stud in the hub.
Have all of the lugnuts loosened, making sure the threads are clean and not burred or partially missing, as well as a little bit of anti-seize on every stud before you put the nuts on, then re-install the nuts tightened to spec,.
I've found that "close to spec" is out on the end of the stock crack bar, about a 1/4 to 1 full turn after FIRM seating (snugged down, not torqued) of ALL 8 NUTS to the wheel, is within reason of spec.
Mark.