GM 14 bolt dually drums on D70 dually rear

[stillsmokin]

I know Andrew and myself saw a thread about this somewhere a while back, anybody else remember what forum it was on?

[Mark Nixon]

It's on here, I believe, I remember seeing it.
Damn search here doesn't recognize "14" and "GM", too common of term and too short.

It could also have been on DTR, but I distinctively remember it being here.

Mark.

[stillsmokin]

I was thinking the thread had an obscure title, 14 bolt wasn't in it? Wish I could find it...

I ended up with a set of free brakes off of a bread truck. 13x3.5 shoes and beastly GM drums would make for nice brakes on the old W350 with hydraboost. It was a later style 14 bolt with the thick single spindle nut which is keyed to the spindle groove and the key is held with a snap ring. Initially it looks like the 14FF spindle is the same as a dodge dana 70/80. The 4 bolt pattern on the flange appears indentical. The offset of the backing plate 4 bolt flange on the axle tube is what needs to be looked at now since I don't have a bare dodge 70 dually spindle to look at.

All my GM K30's will put you through the windshield with a little to much pressure on the brake pedal, they will stop on a dime. I'm tired of having to adjust my driving style for the dodge.

[Mark Nixon]

Then do yourself and a Chevy a favor.
Put a Cummins in a Chevy.

Mark.

[stillsmokin]

Yes Mark, the crew cab K30 will finally be getting a 12v this year. But the w350 needs a more positive and safe brake system.

[Mark Nixon]

Yes Mark, the crew cab K30 will finally be getting a 12v this year. But the w350 needs a more positive and safe brake system.

Then, if you haven't done it already, by far the single most good thing to do is get rid of the ABS valve on the frame.
Additionally, if you still feel the rear brake response is "lacking" smaller rear wheel cylinders can and do help.
So does a hydroboost conversion.

Sometimes it's not the brakes SIZE that matters, but what controls them.

Mark.

[stillsmokin]

Yes Mark, the crew cab K30 will finally be getting a 12v this year. But the w350 needs a more positive and safe brake system.

Then, if you haven't done it already, by far the single most good thing to do is get rid of the ABS valve on the frame.
Additionally, if you still feel the rear brake response is "lacking" smaller rear wheel cylinders can and do help.
So does a hydroboost conversion.

Sometimes it's not the brakes SIZE that matters, but what controls them.

Mark.

I plan on deleting the RWAL system in the spring, it actually "works" and the light stays off with the controller plugged in, which is almost unbelievable. The dodge RWAL never worked right from an engineering standpoint so I plan to delete it anyway.

My reasoning for the GM drum brakes is pretty simple, it was a real good brake design. Problems were minimal and stopping power was more than needed. About the worst problem they had was a bad hub seal or wheel cylinder from age. The shoe wear was real good too due to the large surface area of the shoes. The super part was the parking brake is alot better than the first gen had. That little cable in the dodge brake broke on me several times on the puller when it was my DD. Also had a major issue with aftermarket parking brake cables popping off the shoes in the drum (luckily I park with the manual transmission in reverse)! I never had to work on the rear brakes of a truck as much as I've had to on these old dodges. Love the trucks... not so found of the brakes.

[dazedandconfused]

Did anyone ever find out if this works? It would be useful info for the future.