Turning down an injection pump

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Turning down an injection pump

Postby Fnschlaud4620 » Wed Apr 18, 2007 9:16 pm

This may baffel some of you guys here, but I am in need of the knowledge of turning down the pump on a JD 5010.

The story starts 10 years ago when the tractor was rebuilt by the local tractor guru. I was 13 years old at the time, I didnt know anything and things went bad fast. The so called guru was nothing but a parts changer.

When the old 531 was torn down it was found that the block webbing was cracked between the cylinders at the top that hold the liners. I now know that this is a common problem in the 531 and 619 due to deere using the block as part of the frame. The guru insisted we get a new block from JD. The last new casting of the 531 5020 block is now in our 5010 at the cost of 4000 dollars. Now the guru says that all the parts need to be JD or no warranty. New oil pump, new this new that, new everything, old good or not. and the normal stuff like rebuilt injection pump and injectors. Well when it was all said and done the grand total was $17,000 10 years ago.

Ever since we got it back it smoked white and black horriably, We had an Egt gauge on it and never took it over 1000. We put 700 hrs on it in 10 years, This tractor was never abused and mostly ran a fork lift. last spring we thought that it would do the tractor some good to be used so we used it to subsoil some lanes, after the tractor was warmed up very well, we started to rip with it. we stayed in 2nd gear for a while and it was doing great. We shifted into 3rd and it was doing well for a while. The tractor started to pull up a grade and faster than it could be shut down the tractor labored, smoke rolled and it seized.

About 20 seconds later the starter finally was able to turn it over again. ever since then it has made a funny noise on number 6. The noise was getting worse and worse, so now I am 23, I know how to do some things and I tore it down, #6 piston was scorn around 2/3s of the cylinder and piston. So right now I am in the process of replacing number 6 with new parts.

Before the so called guru rebuilt the tractor, the 5010 had a M&W turbo kit on it. It was dynoed by the local JD dealer @ 165hp. It ran great, untill it was just worn out. After the guru rebuilt it he said that the turbo was what caused the block to break and he would not warrenty it with the turbo. So it was removed and the tractor was left natural. The guru then dynoed the tractor at 130 pto hp. The poor old tractor had more fuel pushed through it natural, verses when the turbo was on it. It got a little hot didn't it?

After the tractor is fixed what do you think I should do, put the whistle back on or detune it to 4020 power? I think that more than likely she will be a sleeping giant the rest of its life. My dad and uncle put way too much money into it to get rid of it, but we dont want to keep doing repairs. We dont need the power, we have bigger tractors now. I know that we were screwed and now I do all of the repairs.

The moral of this story, well there really isn't one, I just kinda felt like typing and venting. Well I guess we have learned a lesson no one but I touches our stuff any more. And some people really arent mechanics, the are only part changers.

I really need to be typing my papers instead of on here
Fnschlaud4620
1998 GMC K3500 180,000 1st gen Cummins H1E/HT60 twins PPE 435 injectors 5" exhaust 4l80e
Truck Pics: http://www.cummins-conversion.com/photo ... ppuser=556

http://s283.photobucket.com/albums/kk300/Fnschlaud4620/
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fuel screw!!!!
 
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Postby KTA » Thu Apr 19, 2007 4:20 am

Put the turbo back on and enjoy. I am not shure what 531 block you got as a replacment, but it probably has piston cooling nozzles. I would check the #6 one very carefully as unless someone pinched the o-ring on the liner when installing it thats the usual cause for a scuffed piston/liner. On the other side to turn it down if it has a DB2 pump on it like I suspect you take the top off and back the screw out that is in the rotor assembly in the pump.
Fleet of Junk: 1989 D350 627rwhp 1300 tq B-1/Hx60 twins, KTA pump/injectors, ported head, BIG fuel supply. 13.75@ 109.5mph 1/4: 1992 W350 Cab-chasis, 1993 W350 ext cab cust.370 inj Hx40/16cm 290rwhp hydroboost brakes,1984 D350 crew-cab another project.
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Postby PToombs » Thu Apr 19, 2007 4:59 pm

I'd put the turbo back on. Then no adjustment is necessary. You can listen to the whistle, you have all the power you need, you just don't have to use it! Lots of these tractors ran M&W kits, most with no problems. :D
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby Fnschlaud4620 » Thu Apr 19, 2007 6:41 pm

Thanks for the input guys,

If I would have known then what I know now It would have a 619 with and A-pump and a big charger, around 350 hp! but that is not my situation.

Do you think that the m&w charger is good for the tractor or should I find a wastegated one like an s300 or hx40?

Thanks
fnschlaud4620
1998 GMC K3500 180,000 1st gen Cummins H1E/HT60 twins PPE 435 injectors 5" exhaust 4l80e
Truck Pics: http://www.cummins-conversion.com/photo ... ppuser=556

http://s283.photobucket.com/albums/kk300/Fnschlaud4620/
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Fnschlaud4620
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 209
Joined: Sun Jan 14, 2007 1:29 pm
Location: North Branch, MI
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Postby KTA » Thu Apr 19, 2007 7:07 pm

Unless something is wrong with the M&w which is probably a Ray-Jay Id leave it. Oh and if it is currently smoking white when it is ideling and warmed up I would say it is out of time.
Fleet of Junk: 1989 D350 627rwhp 1300 tq B-1/Hx60 twins, KTA pump/injectors, ported head, BIG fuel supply. 13.75@ 109.5mph 1/4: 1992 W350 Cab-chasis, 1993 W350 ext cab cust.370 inj Hx40/16cm 290rwhp hydroboost brakes,1984 D350 crew-cab another project.
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