1stGen.org

by **cougar** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 1:10 pm

What gives? I can't keep rotors straight on this thing for nothing. I'll turn them and within 1000 miles they are warped, again. I'm not a brake rider and most of my miles are long highway miles. The reason I have to replace them is from being turned too many times.

Any ideas?

Any better quality discs out there?

by **burnt_servo** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 2:02 pm

what are you torquing your wheel nuts to?

by **dpuckett** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 2:44 pm

I would be more concerned with the rears not doing their job, thanks to the useless junk Anti-stop Brake System on these trucks. Bypass the RWAL hydraulic module, and your rotors should last considerably longer, as your rears will actually WORK. Another side effect is having to relearn how to stop with 4 brakes instead of 2.

Daniel

by **sdstriper** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 4:43 pm

burnt_servo wrote:what are you torquing your wheel nuts to?

This is a good point.

And, what pads are you using. Find new old stock organic pads is my advice.

by **cougar** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 5:55 pm

I think I am the only one that uses a torque wrench on my truck, everyone else just beats them on with an impact. How do you disable the RWAL. Is there a "teckie" link out there?

by **921stgen** » Tue Jul 07, 2009 4:00 pm

Disconnect the lines going in and out and go to napa for the couplings that you need. Also unplug the RWAL module behind the glove compartment.

by **cougar** » Tue Jul 07, 2009 6:22 pm

921stgen wrote:Disconnect the lines going in and out and go to napa for the couplings that you need. Also unplug the RWAL module behind the glove compartment.

Thats what I was thinking of trying. I just need to figure out what size fittings I need, town is a long way away. Option may be to gut the valve?

by **wjones** » Wed Jul 08, 2009 1:49 am

Part numbers for the brake fittings to bypass rwal from napa WH202x5 WH252x3

are your calipers sticking at all?

by **PToombs** » Wed Jul 08, 2009 5:45 pm

Gutting the valve is not an option!
The other thing you can do is replace the line from the front to the connection with the hose. No special fittings needed that way, just bypass the valve with the new line. The hose connection is a normal fitting.

by **cougar** » Sun Jul 12, 2009 8:56 am

Thanks guys!
Well, got the truck into a brake shop and :sad:

both rear axle seals had blown soaking the shoes. What is strange is there was no indication from the outside. Usually you will see 90 weight dripping or slung off the edge of the drum. Nothing, dry. The shoes were still adjusted properly, but being oil soaked they don't work like they are supposed to.

So, turned the rotors (the pads were like new), turned the drums, new shoes, new axle seals, and unplugged the vent. The axle vent had rusted closed :mad:

No more death wobble on braking, no more shimmy going down the road. We shall see how long this lasts. I am still going to remove the RWAL.

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