Brake pedal stays down after pressing

[Diesel]

Why won't my brake pedal return quickly? Is there a reason I have to pick it back up with my foot then it stays. Got remanufactured booster and master. Could it be one of those? Front brakes and calipers been replaced but the rear I haven't looked at yet.

[ahale2772]

yes, probably your booster. Ive had terrible luck with buying boosters and masters from napa, advance. I swear 1 out of every two either leaks within 5000 miles or is junk right away

[Diesel]

I see. So you also pick up on the pedal with your foot? If I don't pick up on the pedal it will return back up but it won't come high enough so it will drag the brakes. What can I do about my booster? Can I buy a new one somewhere? Or is there a good reman available?

[ahale2772]

ive had the pedal thing happen once, its an internal issue on the booster, also could be a broken spring inside the master...but my money is on the booster.

you can pull off your vaccume line as well and see what its putting out for vaccume.

they are available from most regular auto parts stores, i reccomend napa.

of course my 3 year old napa master is currently pushing brake fluid past the front seals into the rear resivoir and spilling out the top.

honest to god I must have 10 used masters laying around the yard IDK why ive had such bad luck with them

[PToombs]

Alex, just drill a hole in the wall bewteen front and rear and the fluid will run back on it's own. All the new plastic masters have a slot for that.

[Diesel]

Rock auto has a booster that say uses USA made seals. The spring in the master was firm so I am guessing it's the booster. The one I have now is an A1 Cardone and it's not working. The rockauto one is made by "prior" but I've never heard of them. Any input on prior brand boosters? If my steering is power assisted I guess the pump is making vacuum.

[ahale2772]

Pete, have you ever seen a master do this? if i fill both masters 1/2 inch from the top a 10 mile drive will take the front resivoir down to half then the rear with be 100% full...if i leave it like that it will last for 2 months before i need to add some again

[PToombs]

I was joking buddy! I have seen them do that, and the seal is bad on the piston in between the sections. Your top must have a good seal to the master to keep the fluid from coming out, usually it just runs over the rear until the front section is empty.

[Tacoclaw]

I was joking buddy!

Heh, you shouldn't have said anything. I was heading out to look for a drill. It does seem like a halfway decent idea. My master does this as well. The one that came on it, the 2d reman I put on it, and the 3rd reman that's currently on it tried to do it as hard as it can. I put another thin piece of rubber between the stock one and the cap, with holes cut for the diaphram to move. I then took a giant-ass really fine file and made it as flat as I had the patience to make it. It still seems to leak, but at least it's not spitting it all over the booster and ruining my already-questionable paint.

[ahale2772]

I was joking buddy!

I wernt raising my voice, Honest!

just curious, ive done so many of these masters at this point its sick.

sticking with mine for now because despite the leaking and ruining of "questionable" paint, it feels good...

ill try the drill thing, why do they seperate the resiviors anyways? hmmm.. seems like a "Does the light stay on after you close the door?" kind of question

[ellis93]

they separate the two so if a wheel cylinder or calipers fails or leaks then one or the other will have fluid to work enough to get you stopped,I think

[ahale2772]

yeah....duhhh i forgot about that.

i alwasy think of those "shuttle valves" that close off one system if it blows

[PToombs]

I think a little hole near the top or a groove in the top of the web would be ok. You only need a spot for the fluid to travel back to the front, but it does this because there is a problem in the bottom.
Levi, just make sure you get all the filings from drilling it, or you'll be changing the master, and all the drilling will be in vain.

[Tacoclaw]

As much trouble as I've had with these brakes, I'm ready to throw metal shavings in it to see if it'll help. I just can't get my front brakes to work. I get fluid to them, and they bleed, but once it's back together they never work.

I'm decently sure only my right rear brakes works, though both rears will after a couple pumps. I've bled the left rear for almost 15 minutes one day and it never stopped giving me air. I just gave up and ran it. No tailgating for me.

I've wondered if it could be the proportioning valve, but it's little peg sticks out when the pedal is pressed... Maybe some "taps" from a hammer will help it.

[ahale2772]

my fronts seem to hardly work as well. they wont give up any air but clearly they arnt doing what they could.(1ton front pads, rotors, calipers) I just put my traction bars back on because the D80 was doing all the work and wrapping my wimpy 1ton springs when towing

what other masters would fit??? that is the question. clearly the seal/piston design on our masters blow...