Brake disc discussion

everything but the drivetrain

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Brake disc discussion

Postby cougar » Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:17 am

I am fed up with made in china warp master rotors. I can not go through a winter without having to turn them more than once. I have used Napa, Schucks, and Car Quest rotors and those supplied by Midas and Meiniky. None of them will last without warping badly in a winter. It's not my driving or some other problem, it's the conditions and poor quality discs. So far all the discs I've used have been OEM replacements.
First part is what would cause a disc to be warp prone.
Second would be design and/or processes what would improve there resistance.
My thoughts on the cause is heat treating and temperature stabilizing either not being done or not done properly. Also a poor quality control over the metal and casting process.
RIP 91.5 W250 5 speed. The great experiment.
92 W250 HD 47RH with Compushift. Upgraded H1C to 62/60/16, Scheid Lightning VE, 60# valve springs, DAP 7X.010 injectors, 4" DE exhaust, home made cooler tubes.
01 2500 "the work truck".
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Postby Remps » Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:01 am

I know what you mean,I try not to even touch the damn brake pedal,and the stupid things warp.The next set of rotors will be getting cryogenic freeze treatment before going on the truck.Supposed to strengthen and even out the molecular structure of the metal or something.Doesn,t seem to be any aftermarket brakes for 1st gens.
'90 D250 R/C,727,IC,6x.009's,1/8" bump,fuel psi,straight pipe w/5" stack.
'90 W250 R/C,47rh,K@N,HX35,1/8" bump,2nd gen IC,boost,egt,trans temp.3.07's.
'96 2500 S/C L/B,2wd,NV5600,3.54 L/S,cai,egt,pacbrake,mbrp exhaust,10 plate.
Bring back the Bank of Canada, PRE- 1974.
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Postby lectro_static » Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:14 am

Im wondering if slotting the rotors would help any. It would dissipate the heat better, im just not sure it would be enough. I started to do mine today, first thing I broke the allen wrench for the hubs, found another one then did a bit more reading on it and discovered I am in need of a few more tools that I dont have. Guess it will have to wait.........
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Postby dpuckett » Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:58 am

I agree that stuff isnt made like it used to be, and in the words of (I think) PToombs, made in china + made of metal = junk. But, have you guys made absolutely SURE your rears are working properly? Either by adjusting and/or bypassing the RWAL/antistop valve. I havent had the rotor issues some have had. I could be lucky, but I think it's probably the fact that I adjust the rears every oil change, and bypass the RWAL on nearly every vehicle I get.

DP
His- 93 W250 club cab LE, auto to Getrag conversion, piston lift pump, 3.54 LSD. 400k+
Hers- 04 QC 4x4. Built auto, Triple Dog, Air Dog. Funny Round truck that aint so quiet.
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Postby PToombs » Mon Feb 08, 2010 6:55 pm

dpuckett wrote: and bypass the RWAL on nearly every vehicle I get.

DP


And then forgets to put fluid in until 11 pm when the wife wants to leave. :lol:
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Re:

Postby cougar » Sat Feb 13, 2010 10:53 am

dpuckett wrote:I agree that stuff isnt made like it used to be, and in the words of (I think) PToombs, made in china + made of metal = junk. But, have you guys made absolutely SURE your rears are working properly? Either by adjusting and/or bypassing the RWAL/antistop valve. I havent had the rotor issues some have had. I could be lucky, but I think it's probably the fact that I adjust the rears every oil change, and bypass the RWAL on nearly every vehicle I get.

DP

Yes I'm sure, I've had problems with the rear in the past loosening up so I keep on top of them. The RWAL works as advertised and I choose to keep it because of the road conditions here in the winter. I'm pretty sure were and when it happens. I have two places on my route were the brakes are used harder than usual. Both are steep down a hill at high way speeds. One has a stop light at the bottom, the other has a sharp set of turns. Both have water, snow, and/or slush at the bottom. A great combination of conditions.
RIP 91.5 W250 5 speed. The great experiment.
92 W250 HD 47RH with Compushift. Upgraded H1C to 62/60/16, Scheid Lightning VE, 60# valve springs, DAP 7X.010 injectors, 4" DE exhaust, home made cooler tubes.
01 2500 "the work truck".
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Re: Brake disc discussion

Postby oldestof11 » Sat Feb 13, 2010 4:40 pm

Toquring the lug nuts too tight?
Jon
93 D250~ Mismatch of cheap parts, trying to look fast going slow
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Re: Brake disc discussion

Postby burnt_servo » Sat Feb 13, 2010 5:01 pm

oldestof11 wrote:Toquring the lug nuts too tight?

+1

i've never had a problem with warped rotors on ANY vehicle , assuming 2 things .

firstly the wheels nuts where all torqued properly , secondly the rotors where never turned down .

i used to work at a shop that will remain unnamed .
they used to over tighten the front rotors , and a few days latter when the customer complained about drivability issues ( ie warped rotors ) they'd sell them a brake job and turn the rotors .

funny thing about turning rotors , after a rotor gets used for awhile it " hard surfaces " its self .
the rotor gets turned to remove the warp , but most of the time the hard surface isn't completely removed and you create another problem .
if the hard surfacing is removed completely , now you have a rotor that is on the thin side and won't handle heat properly , and it warps , again .
'93 w250 .... stock ...
curently removing the dead moose parts ....
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Re: Brake disc discussion

Postby dpuckett » Wed Feb 17, 2010 12:04 pm

Since our rotors are inboard of the hub, would over tightening even be an issue? At least I seem to remember that on my 4x4; catn be for sure on the 2wd. Last 2wd SRW i had was in 2002.

DP
His- 93 W250 club cab LE, auto to Getrag conversion, piston lift pump, 3.54 LSD. 400k+
Hers- 04 QC 4x4. Built auto, Triple Dog, Air Dog. Funny Round truck that aint so quiet.
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