HELP!

everything but the drivetrain

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HELP!

Postby NJDodge » Wed Jan 23, 2013 9:03 pm

Image

This is complete bull. Has anyone ever had these bolts snap?! I figure I have to drill the broken piece out or get it out some how? I was thinking about welding everything together....This is my only current vehicle. Very bummed about this considering I just got the steering done, and got some new wheels....

Please help!
-Nick
1990 Dodge W250- 360 V8, 35x12.5x16.5 BFG, 4" rough country lift, NP205 transfer case, 727 trans.
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Re: HELP!

Postby bubba » Wed Jan 23, 2013 9:49 pm

I wouldn't suggest welding it together. The best thing would be to tear it down, extract the broken bolt, and get a replacement.
1992 Dodge W350 CTD A518 DRW Flatbed
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Re: HELP!

Postby CumminsPower59 » Thu Jan 24, 2013 5:35 am

Easy fix? GET RID OF IT. Use an adjustable drag link. Those steerng blocks aren't very good, as the turning force applied to factory cap is minimal in stock form because of the small vertical area being clamped together by the factory studs, now add 2 or 3 inches of height to it, that turning force becomes twisting force, resulting in what happened. Also, if you weld it together, how are you going to service anything in there? Plus, it takes a sh!t ton of skill and patience to weld to cast iron ;)
Ike

91 W350 SRW, 3.07's, NV4500, 370's, THD LPPP, Super HX40, 2nd gen IC swap, BHAF, Isspro's, 2" lift, 285's on 3rd gen 17"'s.
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Re: HELP!

Postby NJDodge » Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:07 pm

Where can I buy an adjustable drag link? I'm going to try and get the studs out today....Lots of drilling ahead of me. I looked it up and these are aftermarket? They don't even look like hardened bolts from the get go....
1990 Dodge W250- 360 V8, 35x12.5x16.5 BFG, 4" rough country lift, NP205 transfer case, 727 trans.
NJDodge
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Re: HELP!

Postby RumbleFish » Thu Jan 24, 2013 1:07 pm

Skyjacker makes an adjustable draglink.
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Re: HELP!

Postby CumminsPower59 » Thu Jan 24, 2013 7:27 pm

RumbleFish wrote:Skyjacker makes an adjustable draglink.


^^^This. I have one on my W350, I bought it back in 2004ish, and it's still nice and tight. Well worth the $200+ for it, plus, since it's lifted and all, you can use it to fine tune your steering wheel back to center.
Ike

91 W350 SRW, 3.07's, NV4500, 370's, THD LPPP, Super HX40, 2nd gen IC swap, BHAF, Isspro's, 2" lift, 285's on 3rd gen 17"'s.
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Re: HELP!

Postby RumbleFish » Thu Jan 24, 2013 7:38 pm

Previous owner put chevy style steering on my truck. They came with an adjustable draglink. It was nice when I swapped in lift springs a few weeks ago.
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Re: HELP!

Postby NJDodge » Wed Jan 30, 2013 6:35 pm

Need another steering knuckle. Drilled through the studs, tried easy out, will not budge. That after soaking with pb blaster, tapping on it with a hammer, and a torch, looks as though I'm whAt?. Are the dana 60 knuckles different from the 44's? And If anyone has a spare one please let me know.
1990 Dodge W250- 360 V8, 35x12.5x16.5 BFG, 4" rough country lift, NP205 transfer case, 727 trans.
NJDodge
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Re: HELP!

Postby CumminsPower59 » Wed Jan 30, 2013 7:46 pm

Oh yeah. Way bigger. Check out eBay or a good wrecking yard.
Ike

91 W350 SRW, 3.07's, NV4500, 370's, THD LPPP, Super HX40, 2nd gen IC swap, BHAF, Isspro's, 2" lift, 285's on 3rd gen 17"'s.
04 VW Jetta Wagon TDI 5speed
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Re: HELP!

Postby NJDodge » Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:18 pm

Yea, going to call the wrecking yard near me. Says they have it online and I need to call for a price. I'm not looking to pay 200 bucks for another knuckle....I mean I can buy brand new offroad ones for 300 each....Also does anyone have experience with these brakes? Looks as though the studs hold the hub and rotor together?
1990 Dodge W250- 360 V8, 35x12.5x16.5 BFG, 4" rough country lift, NP205 transfer case, 727 trans.
NJDodge
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Re: HELP!

Postby CumminsPower59 » Thu Jan 31, 2013 5:31 am

Can you take your knuckle to a machine shop or something? They could probably get the rest of the stud out, saving the cost of getting another knuckle ;)

As for brakes, there is a small "bolt" on the bottom side that holds the spring and shim thingy in, which holds the caliper in place. Those little bolts can snap pretty easy if someone over-tightend them before. Yes, the wheel studs hold the rotor and hub assembly together.
Ike

91 W350 SRW, 3.07's, NV4500, 370's, THD LPPP, Super HX40, 2nd gen IC swap, BHAF, Isspro's, 2" lift, 285's on 3rd gen 17"'s.
04 VW Jetta Wagon TDI 5speed
CumminsPower59
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Re: HELP!

Postby NJDodge » Thu Jan 31, 2013 2:53 pm

I could have but I found a whole knuckle at a junkyard for 133 bucks, including caliper, hub, rotor, kingpin, yada yada. I don't need all that stuff, but eh, I needed the knuckle and its the right one.

And the brakes, I know how to get the caliper off, I was just wondering about the rotors haha. Thanks!
1990 Dodge W250- 360 V8, 35x12.5x16.5 BFG, 4" rough country lift, NP205 transfer case, 727 trans.
NJDodge
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Re: HELP!

Postby Mark Nixon » Thu Jan 31, 2013 9:47 pm

NJDodge wrote:...I found a whole knuckle at a junkyard for 133 bucks, including caliper, hub, rotor, kingpin, yada yada. I don't need all that stuff, but eh, I needed the knuckle and its the right one.

Hub and Spindle/Bearing support will bring the price you gave, easily.
Save the "extra" pieces, chances are you'll need them and the HUB is especially hard to obtain at times.

Mark.
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