Broke my Steering Bracket.

[Kebo]

I thought I had posted something here looking for a new bracket, but I can't find it. So anyway, I found this earlier this summer:



I got this thing running a few weeks ago. I tried like hell to find the elusive "20-dollar OEM bracket," at the dealership, junkyards, and online auto parts suppliers, but no avail. I finally found one on E-Bay for $170. That was pretty good, but I don't have $180+.

So I set out to fabricate a new one. Here's what I did. The original was a 3/16" stamped piece of plate that was really complicated, so it took me a while to wrap my head around how to duplicate the geometry of it as near as I could.



Materials: all mild steel

1-1/8"x.25" wall tubing - one foot of it from McMaster @ $20 (est.)
1" solid stock - one foot of it from a local metal supplier @ $3
3/8" plate @ $30 (for CNC time)

First I made a cardboard template of the old bracket.


I then scanned this template and imported it into Solid Works, traced it, scaled it, created a .nc.txt file for it and did some of this:





Then I ran into a little problem. The four small holes were supposed to bolt right up to the steering box itsself. . . Not happening. I needed to make some spacers to clear. SO I drilled out the holes to 1", and turned down some spacers out of the 1" round stock:













To clear this:



Burned them in:





Next, I determined that the bracket actually held the steering box with a 25* tip to the outboard of the frame. I had planned this and oversized the outer holes to accommodate the 1-1/8" tubing and still allow for the 25* tip. Then I fitted it up to the frame rails and busted out the angle finder to get it where I was happy with it.

Fit up:



With some final welding and paint:





Installed:

[Tacoclaw]

Holy sthi, nice work!!! I'm totally jealous.


I saw that nasty-ass factory bracket and you mention taking some measurements and expected the next pic to be some ghetto fab pic that I would take, not a CNC machine and a mention of solidworks.

[Kebo]

I've also been wheeling this truck lately. I can't help it, it wheels amazing for a stock rig!

Kelly Flats:





I need new tires badly!

[DodgeFreak]

Awesome work man!

I was thinking the same thing as taco. I was invisioning my fab work lol.

[BC847]

That's right sporty right there!

I'm sure you could sell a good number of those if you were into that sort of thing.

[RCCUMMINS89]

I'm sure you could sell a good number of those if you were into that sort of thing.

Agreed

[Kebo]

Well, I could turn another one out in a few hours, now that I have a .nc file for it. I would need to find a way to jig it all up, though. I used my frame and steering box as the jigs this time.

[Kebo]

Alright, I'm digging this thread back up because my truck has developed DEATH WOBBLE! I have done some poking around and found that all of the steering joints appear tight. I had a buddy of mine saw the steering wheel back and forth while I checked all of the steering linkages. I probably have 30,000 miles on the drag link but only 10,000 on the tie rod ends. These are very rough estimates, but I can't see rod ends wearing that fast.

One thing I did notice is that the shaft which the pitman arm is bolted to right out of the steering gearbox moves a little bit (1/8-1/16") vertically. Is this normal? Is there a way to fix the slop? I know there is a set screw of some type directly above:



Is this to adjust a bearing pre-load or anything like that? (I'm not a mechanic so I don't know anything about these steering boxes.)

Also, I don't know how long it has been since the knuckles were rebuilt, Do you think this could be the culprit? Do I need a new steering box?

Thanks!

[Mckinney]

Is the 2WD and 4WD bracket the same? Id be interested in purchasing one if they are

[ihredneck]

ok, you don't have money, but have access to highly expensive equipment and software

[m880cummins]

I'd say do the upper king pin bushings while you are thinking about it. Takes about 20 mins per side and is really just a plastic bushing that needs replaced. Buy two moog kingpin bushing kits part number K6652.

As for the box, I have rebuilt one but best just leaving it together. I believe that set screw will adjust endplay to an extent. I usually loosen the jam nut, tighten set screw until it suddenly feels snug then back off about 1/8 of a turn.

Also, see if there is any end play in your box input...

Charlie

[Kebo]

Is the 2WD and 4WD bracket the same? Id be interested in purchasing one if they are

I don't know if they are the same.

ok, you don't have money, but have access to highly expensive equipment and software

Yes, the lab I work at is pretty cool about us having access to the tools. Add to that, access to all the latest design software through the Mechanical Engineering Department here at CSU. Exhibited here is a poor college guy (not a kid anymore at 28) with more resources than money trying to keep a 20 year old pickup on the road (barely).

I'd say do the upper king pin bushings while you are thinking about it. Takes about 20 mins per side and is really just a plastic bushing that needs replaced. Buy two moog kingpin bushing kits part number K6652.

As for the box, I have rebuilt one but best just leaving it together. I believe that set screw will adjust endplay to an extent. I usually loosen the jam nut, tighten set screw until it suddenly feels snug then back off about 1/8 of a turn.

Also, see if there is any end play in your box input...

Charlie

I will tighten that bolt and see what happens.

I already have two kingpin rebuild kits that I was going to use in the Dana 60 going into the front of my Wrangler, but I guess now it has been re-purposed.

[ihredneck]

If I have time I'll look at my brackets to see if they're the same between 2wd and 4wd. The gears are the same, pitman arm isn't though

[PToombs]

After you adjust the screw, drive it carefully in the parking lot before you go down the road. Due to the age of the truck and mileage the gears maybe worn in the middle (straight driving) and still tight when you turn a little. If you tighten the screw too much the steering will bind when you turn and not float back to straight. Also check the input shaft on the gearbox. Have somebody saw the wheel and see if it goes in and out. If so, loosen the sheet metal nut on the input housing, and screw in the big input with 2 holes in the face. Snug it, then back it off about 1/8th and tighten the nut.

[RumbleFish]

2wd is mounted directly to the frame. No bracket needed.