Gap between locking hub and hub itself.

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Gap between locking hub and hub itself.

Postby qmikep » Tue Feb 11, 2014 12:21 pm

I just finished replacing my u-joints spindle bearings, and wheel bearings. After I got everything back together I noticed a small (1/32ish) gap between the locking hub and the hub itself. I don't remember if there was a small gap there before I took it apart but it doesn't seem right.

If I remove the sealing o ring from the locking hub it will sit flush with the hub. If I remove the internal locking hub companents the locking hub face still wont sit flush with the o ring in, so its not that I screwed something else up.

I can't tighten the six hex head screws enough to get rid of the gap. If I tighten them anymore I'm sure the threads on the internal piece will strip out.

I think warn makes two types of sealing o rings one that is square cut and one round I'm thinking maybe a PO replaced it with the incorrect one.

Anyone have any ideas? Do you have a gap between the locking hub/hub itself.

I'll attach a picture.

Thanks

Image
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Re: Gap between locking hub and hub itself.

Postby 1992gen1_fan » Tue Feb 11, 2014 4:57 pm

The hub locks are the same way on my truck. I can actually wiggle them. Not sure why they're like that, I put new ones on not long after I bought the truck about 6 or 7 years ago and they've always been like that. They seem to work fine though.
'92 Dodge w350, 5 spd, Dana 80 3.54, timing spacer, ground stock pin&3200 spring, vgt, hungry diesel piston pump, water/meth, Honed stock injectors, 4" turbo back, light IP adjustments
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Re: Gap between locking hub and hub itself.

Postby CumminsPower59 » Tue Feb 11, 2014 6:49 pm

Its fine, run it. As long as it seals, no worries ;) My pile has the same condition, and it works and seals properly.
Ike

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Re: Gap between locking hub and hub itself.

Postby qmikep » Wed Feb 12, 2014 11:33 am

Interesting, thanks for the replies. They do work fine, however that gap is going to bug the hell outta me. I'm going to give warn a call and see what they say. Maybe the square cut version of the o ring would get rid of the gap.
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Re: Gap between locking hub and hub itself.

Postby PToombs » Wed Feb 12, 2014 6:07 pm

I used to work for a guy that had a bunch of early '70's Dodge plow trucks. I remember almost all of them had a small gap like that pic shows, and you could wiggle the hub a little bit. The hub moves because it's bolted to the inner piece that's only held with a snap ring, movement is normal. When we had them off we Neverseized the crap out of them on assembly, and still had to drill the small Allen heads off to remove them sometimes.
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Re: Gap between locking hub and hub itself.

Postby CumminsPower59 » Wed Feb 12, 2014 6:14 pm

If it is going to bother you, there are two fixes. 1. Double up the snap rings, putting the inner locking hub section further inside the hub, then when you crank the little screw down to lessen the gap of the hub to cap, it will go away. 2. Take some black RTV and run it around the circumference of the gap, sealing it. Wipe off the excess smooth and enjoy!
Ike

91 W350 SRW, 3.07's, NV4500, 370's, THD LPPP, Super HX40, 2nd gen IC swap, BHAF, Isspro's, 2" lift, 285's on 3rd gen 17"'s.
04 VW Jetta Wagon TDI 5speed
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