W250 D70 rear disc brake swap install - DIY4X.com

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W250 D70 rear disc brake swap install - DIY4X.com

Postby opiebennett » Tue Jun 03, 2014 9:58 pm

I bought the truck and as part of my inspection noticed that there was something wrong with the rear drums. So I replaced every part in them save for the wheel cylinders. After 11k miles, the brand new NAPA drums were out of round and pulsing so badly, that I decided I was done spending $$$ on drums, and going to discs - even if it would have been cheaper to turn the drums and replace the shoes.

So I did some research, and read about what folks had to say about the D70's in the back of our trucks. It seems that the general consensus was that no one made a bolt on kit, save for the semi-bolt on, really expensive, lacking a confidence inspiring fit based on their website, EGR brake system (http://www.egrbrakes.com/index-main.htm) which BC847 installed in detail here (http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/ ... 46673.html).

I decided that I could do better on the price and the same on performance with a semi-weld on kit. I shopped around the usual vendors - Great Lakes 4x4, RuffStuff Specialties, and DIY4X.com. Even more confused, I called the folks at DIY4X and inquired if we had a D70, or a D70HD - turns out the folks over there were helpful, had me take a few measurements, and determined that I had a D70 non-HD. (For reference, the axle tubes are 3.5" OD before they neck down on the non-HD version).

Ok, so I ordered the parts from DIY4X.com (http://www.diy4x.com/) part number: 00500K including the rotors, because I figured $40/rotor was a good enough price anyhow, and they mentioned that parts store rotors internal bore may not fit. (http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=p ... duct_id=50)

This is what showed up -
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The packaging could have been better, the parts were loose in a flat rate box with packing peanuts everywhere, jammed inside the rotor vents, but my parts arrived un-damaged, so I suppose it was good enough for the job.

I went to the parts store and bought the following:
2 EA 1986 Chevy K20 front calipers (right and left) - O'Reilly P/N BHH-18-4208 and BHH-18-4209 ($12.99 ea, with a $18 core)
1 Set 1986 Chevy K20 front brake pads (Wagoner Thermo-quiet) O'Reilly P/N WAG-MX52 ($34.99)
2 EA 1986 Chevy K20 brake banjo bolts (called brake hose bolt) O'Reilly P/N MTM-13940 ($4.99 EA)
2 EA 1996 Ford Explorer 4x4 passenger rear axle brake hose O'Reilly P/N BHH-BH380528 ($17.99 EA)
2 EA 1991 Dodge W250 Rear Axle Wheel Seals ($7.99 EA)

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Steal some driveway space, and a jackstand, pull the wheel off -

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Remove the axle shaft

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Remove the stake, giant nylock spinde nut, hub/drum assembly, then remove the 4 bolts holding the backing plate to the axle flange, and disconnect the brake hard line from the wheel cylinder. (If you're lucky, the wheel cylinder flare nut will not be frozen, and you wont strip it out. I'm not lucky - I used a cut off wheel to cut the brake hard line)

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Take a spare 1/2-20 nut and use it to protect your wheel stud threads. Pound out the wheel studs, discard the warped drums. Attempt to mate the rotor to the hub by pressing in the studs. Determine that the wheel stud holes in the brake kit arent the right size. Break out the dial caliper, and determine that the drums have an approximately 11/16" hole. Decide that your home machine shop (DeWalt cordless 18v XRP drill) can do the job. Make the holes 11/16".

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(Actually drilling cast isn't that bad at all)

Now install the rotor, and press (use your drift punch and hammer) the wheel studs in -

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Bryan 'Opie' Bennett
91.5 5.9L with 21mm H1C/A518/NP205 Reg Cab LE Pyro/Boost/Trans Temp/BD Fuel Pin/Some fuel screw/Diamond Eye 4" exhaust/B+M Deep Trans Pan/3rd Gen aluminum wheels
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Re: W250 D70 rear disc brake swap install - DIY4X.com

Postby opiebennett » Tue Jun 03, 2014 10:07 pm

See - looks better than those dumb warped drums already -

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Clean off the end of the spindle outboard of the axle flange.

Grab your weld on piece, your bolt on caliper bracket, bolt them together, and slide them onto the axle.

Toss the hub/rotor assembly back on, and temp reinstall the giant nylock spindle nut to locate the rotor.

Grab a caliper that will orient the bleeder screw as high as it can be. Throw the pads in, and bolt the caliper onto the caliper bracket.

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The whole assembly will rotate 360 deg. around the axle at this point. Rotate it to where the bleeder screw is up. I put the calipers on the back of the axle because for some reason that made sense to me. Also, the brake line is on the back of the axle.

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align the caliper with the rotor (the pads mostly do this for you) and tack the inner, weld on bracket on. Take all that stuff apart, hope you dont break your tacks, and protect the spindle from weld splatter (I used some tape).

Burn the weld on piece in, on both sides. Take 2 pictures for the internet weld inspectors to tell you that you suck at welding, and you're going to die. Post them.

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Drink a beer imported from Colorado while waiting for the welds to cool enough that you dont burn yourself.

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Bryan 'Opie' Bennett
91.5 5.9L with 21mm H1C/A518/NP205 Reg Cab LE Pyro/Boost/Trans Temp/BD Fuel Pin/Some fuel screw/Diamond Eye 4" exhaust/B+M Deep Trans Pan/3rd Gen aluminum wheels
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Re: W250 D70 rear disc brake swap install - DIY4X.com

Postby opiebennett » Tue Jun 03, 2014 10:19 pm

After finishing your beer, touch the welds, determine from your 3rd degree burns that its still too hot. Decide to change the seals on the hub, because one of them showed evidence of leakage. This also gives you a chance to inspect / grease the inner wheel bearing. (Some folks figure the diff fluid gets out there - your mileage may vary).

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Paint the bolt on caliper bracket

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Having learned your lesson, you look around, and try to figure out what else to do that doesn't involve testing the heat of your weld on axle flange. Decide to work on the brake hard line. I cut off the protective spring all the way to the inboard side of the axle spring perch by carefully using the angle grinder.

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Use your tubing cutter to make a nice clean cut -

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Use your double flare tool to double flare the line -

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(That was the 2nd flare, I forgot to put the tube nut on the first time). So the 1996 Ford explorer has 3/16" brake double flare hard lines, just like the dodge - how nifty! The 1996 ford explorer also uses a 3/8" banjo bolt. By 1987, Chevy had gone to a metric 10mm banjo bolt, that is slightly larger. No problem, back to the milling machine. (DeWalt XRP) Punch that guy out to 13/32". Blow air through the line to get metal chips out.

Bolt on your Ford brake line to your dodge brake line. Paint the axle flange. Test the heat once more. Determine that either you cant feel it, or its cool enough. Paint the flange. Bolt on the bolt on caliper bracket (with all 4 bolts). Throw the hub/rotor assembly, big nylock, and stake.

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Add caliper, pads, axle shaft... Mix thoroughly -

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Do the other side. Disconnect the E-brake cable. decide to zip tie that up out of the way for now.
Bleed brakes.
Test drive.
Bryan 'Opie' Bennett
91.5 5.9L with 21mm H1C/A518/NP205 Reg Cab LE Pyro/Boost/Trans Temp/BD Fuel Pin/Some fuel screw/Diamond Eye 4" exhaust/B+M Deep Trans Pan/3rd Gen aluminum wheels
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Re: W250 D70 rear disc brake swap install - DIY4X.com

Postby opiebennett » Tue Jun 03, 2014 10:24 pm

90% of my brake shake went away, and even empty / unloaded, I dont find that the rear brakes lock up too fast. I'm not entirely sure that one of my wheel cylinders didn't have a small leak, but the pedal feel actually got much better, and pedal travel seems appropriate.

I'm very impressed with the stopping difference. It feels better than when I had 100% brand new drums 11k miles ago.

I didn't spring for the Cadillac calipers, so I dont currently have an E-brake, but I do have an idea for that, which involves an intermediate master cylinder that feeds the rear axle only and is actuated by the OEM foot pedal, but I haven't figured that out all the way yet.

I'm happy with the performance, and very happy to have less brake shake. I imagine turning the rotors on the front / changing pads is in order.

Cue internet weld inspectors.
Bryan 'Opie' Bennett
91.5 5.9L with 21mm H1C/A518/NP205 Reg Cab LE Pyro/Boost/Trans Temp/BD Fuel Pin/Some fuel screw/Diamond Eye 4" exhaust/B+M Deep Trans Pan/3rd Gen aluminum wheels
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Re: W250 D70 rear disc brake swap install - DIY4X.com

Postby Tacoclaw » Wed Jun 04, 2014 2:41 am

Awesome writeup. :lol:


I especially liked the beer drinking part! Better enjoy that beer though, judging by those welds it'll be the last one you ever have. :mrgreen:
1990 W250 4x4
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Re: W250 D70 rear disc brake swap install - DIY4X.com

Postby CumminsPower59 » Wed Jun 04, 2014 4:42 am

X2 on the awesome write up :thumright:

Very nice welds too 8)
Ike

91 W350 SRW, 3.07's, NV4500, 370's, THD LPPP, Super HX40, 2nd gen IC swap, BHAF, Isspro's, 2" lift, 285's on 3rd gen 17"'s.
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Re: W250 D70 rear disc brake swap install - DIY4X.com

Postby DodgeFreak » Wed Jun 04, 2014 5:12 am

Very nice! Your welds are 10xs better than mine lol..
92 D350 Cab and Chassis. Auto stock, wiring gremlins. 330k miles
92 W250 Ext cab rotted completely out. Auto, pump maxed, 215 ppump nozzles, Denny T2 pin.
85 D350 single wheel, converted to cummins, getrag, turned up 2 turns and afc screw flush.
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Re: W250 D70 rear disc brake swap install - DIY4X.com

Postby RumbleFish » Wed Jun 04, 2014 6:19 am

Looks good! I did a swap on a rear d60 once and it was super easy. I just redid the rear brakes on my 93. I sure wanted discs but I need a parking brake with the 5 speed. Maybe in 10k when it needs done again lol.
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Re: W250 D70 rear disc brake swap install - DIY4X.com

Postby RumbleFish » Wed Jun 04, 2014 6:21 am

Oh, and I think I used 70s K20 calipers and they had 3/8" fittings already fwiw. That sure would cut down on your machine shop costs!
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Re: W250 D70 rear disc brake swap install - DIY4X.com

Postby Tacoclaw » Wed Jun 04, 2014 6:26 am

The calipers were right, Rumble, he had to drill out the explorer brake lines to match the banjo I believe.
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Re: W250 D70 rear disc brake swap install - DIY4X.com

Postby RumbleFish » Wed Jun 04, 2014 7:04 am

Ya, reading>me.
But now that I think bout it, pretty sure i used k20 hoses as well. i bought a kit off the bay for like $300 and it came with everything. This was also 10 yrs and several trucks ago.
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Re: W250 D70 rear disc brake swap install - DIY4X.com

Postby ellis93 » Wed Jun 04, 2014 11:40 am

Nice job! :)
93 D250 ,5 speed,4.11s,k&n autometer tach pyro trans boost guages,GDS 60mm h1c 14cm,honed 5x10,hplp/reg,1/8 timing,M+H M2 fuel pin, tims cooler tubz
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Re: W250 D70 rear disc brake swap install - DIY4X.com

Postby BC847 » Wed Jun 04, 2014 12:01 pm

Stuckied. 8)
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Re: W250 D70 rear disc brake swap install - DIY4X.com

Postby PToombs » Wed Jun 04, 2014 5:33 pm

Nice! How much was the kit and how long did it take you? Not counting trips to the fridge, yours may be closer to the driveway than mine. ;)
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Re: W250 D70 rear disc brake swap install - DIY4X.com

Postby opiebennett » Wed Jun 04, 2014 7:35 pm

PToombs wrote:Nice! How much was the kit and how long did it take you? Not counting trips to the fridge, yours may be closer to the driveway than mine. ;)


I started about 1 in the afternoon, ran to the parts store in the middle, and stared at the rotors for a while building up the courage to attack a piece of rotating equipment with a cordless drill, but had the brakes bled and tires on the ground for a 9:15 road test, so I'd say 8 hours.

Cost was about $350 for all the parts. DIY4X got me for $181.13 including shipping, and O'Reilly got me for $156.77 the first time, and about $30 the second (both including tax).

I'm still looking around locally for some calipers to turn in as cores, and get $36 back.

I'd previously spent the $$$ for some of the less than common tooling (brake double flare tool, 2-9/16" spindle nylock socket, welder...) so if you didn't already have those, it would probably be more.
Bryan 'Opie' Bennett
91.5 5.9L with 21mm H1C/A518/NP205 Reg Cab LE Pyro/Boost/Trans Temp/BD Fuel Pin/Some fuel screw/Diamond Eye 4" exhaust/B+M Deep Trans Pan/3rd Gen aluminum wheels
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