Driveshaft, u-joints and yoke questions

[GLHS]

What size are the stock u-joints on the front and back of W250 Dodges?
I've been thinking of getting larger driveshafts and joints but I don't know much about them.
Since my truck is an extended cab can I use a one piece driveshaft? If yes, what diameter? Stock is about 3".
Are larger yokes available for the Dana 60, 70, 80 and Dana 20 trasfer case?
Am I peeing my money away for no reason?

[flashgordon]

What size are the stock u-joints on the front and back of W250 Dodges?
I've been thinking of getting larger driveshafts and joints but I don't know much about them.
Since my truck is an extended cab can I use a one piece driveshaft? If yes, what diameter? Stock is about 3".
Are larger yokes available for the Dana 60, 70, 80 and Dana 20 trasfer case?
Am I peeing my money away for no reason?

There's got to be a drive line shop there some wares that could set yeah up.

Do you have a "SIX STATES" there?

I now that you can get rid of your 2pic driveline with a one piece........tube is going to be much larger, to handle the extra flex of a longer drive line.
Don't know the u-joint numbers or the larger yoke.
When i had a drive line built for my GV overdrive unit the driveline shop thru away the yoke that came with GV and and installed a stronger one.
With the new drive shaft i got a new yoke for the rear diff.................so i now they are out there.

Flash.

[Ace]

I think the 1410 joints on our Dodges are about the biggest you're going to find on any consumer-type pickup. Plenty strong enough. I don't know what they're puttiong on the new trucks, but I doubt they're any bigger, could be wrong.

I also think going to a 1-piece DS would be a mistake. It's not the diameter of the shaft so much as the wall thickness and overall length of the tubing that makes a DS strong and rigid. Like Flash says, it would have to much bigger to compensate for the increased length and end up being a poor compromise. Heavier "and" weaker, unless it was so large as to be much much heavier, resulting in more parasitic loss.

[KTA]

The problem is with the transfer case. You can get up to a 1480 yoke for the Dana60 and the Dana70. If you have a dana80 rear you can go to a 1550. The new Dodge trucks starting with the commom rails hve 1480 joints stock. Since the new trucks have double the horsepower they have to have a much beefier drivetrain than our old trucks had. I am not for shure because it has been awhile since I fooled with it, but is the front driveshaft 1410? I was thinking it was 1350 for some reason, in which case you could upgrade it to a 1410CV on the case and a 1480 on the axle. That would make 4wheel drive launches much more secure.

[bgilbert]

Front is not 1410.

If you are worried AND haven't broken anything yet, you might build yourself some driveshaft loops and shields. That would be cheaper and save you from taking out other parts during a break.

Another thing would be go to 1480 at the d70, not sure if a 1480 is available for the np205 t-case. Then take your old d70 1410 yoke and slap it on your front d60 and also upgrade the cv joint.

Find a good driveshaft shop and see how comfortable they are with building something 'different' for you. Plus ask them how long 'they' will build a one piece driveshaft. Local shop here has been building one piece units for 2nd gen extended cab long bed trucks for pullers and wannabe pullers with too much money lol. He said typically 70"-74" was about max for one piece. My crew cab dually long bed was about 110"... much to long for a one piece .

[GLHS]

The front joints are smaller than the rear, so it probably is a 1350.
Next question; Where do I find these larger yokes and CV?

[KTA]

I got a complete front shaft from a F550 in the bone yard. It was 1410CV and front yoke, and at $100 was cheaper than I could get one made and the length was even OK. You can buy any of the yokes or driveshaft parts from your local dana/spicer dealer, or if you need Spicer part numbers I can look them up for you.

[GLHS]

OK. Good info.
An observation; I see the Duramaxes run a one piece 5"(?) aluminum driveshaft. Maybe that could be modified to a Dodge?

[Ace]

KTA, you remember around what year was the truck you got that front shaft 'n yoke? That suonds like a really good cost-efective upgrade. No doubt the front shaft is the weak link, especially in 4wd drag launches - not that I have any application in that area myself.

I recall seeing a vid posted in one of these forums recently where a f250 was pulling a 4BT-powered Hummer in a parking lot somewhere and the Ferd dropped the front shaft. Probably not a 1410 joint, would be my guess.

[KTA]

I believe it was an 05 f550

[Underpsi]

is it possible to get a larger yoke for the getrag to accept a larger u-joint?

[dpuckett]

GLHS- there is a shop in Colorado Springs (and I think they have a Denver Branch) called Driveline Services or something like that (just off Garden of the Gods Road west of I15). Might give them a try. I have no driveline building experience with them, though. There is another one closer to downtown C/S, but I forget their name.

Daniel

[Ace]

You might be talking about Front Range Driveline. They've built two shafts for me recently, onr for my Duster and one for the CTD, Good work reasonable prices:

4000 S Federal Blvd Unit B
Englewood, CO , 80110-4467
Phone: 303-783-9954
FAX: 303-783-9958

[GLHS]

Are larger yokes available for the Dana 60, 70, 80 and Dana 20 trasfer case?

Did I say that! Must be thinking of my old POS Jeep Wagoneer.
I meant NP 205 transfer case.
No luck yet with a larger yoke for the rear output on the case. I was told a 5-801 spicer joint is forged steel and might be the best I can do.

[bgilbert]

No luck yet with a larger yoke for the rear output on the case. I was told a 5-801 spicer joint is forged steel and might be the best I can do.

5-801x is the non-greaseable version of 5-160x 'cold forged' Spicer 1410 u-joint.

You might try ProFab Machine for the bigger yoke. http://www.profabmachineinc.com/