Rear pinion seal

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Rear pinion seal

Postby mrc » Sat Mar 26, 2016 9:15 am

Getting ready to replace rear pinion seal on my 92 w350. Would you recommend having a redi sleeve before hand with the new pinion seal or checking the yoke for grooves and just getting a replacement seal?
Recommended gear oil for occasional towing?
RTV to use?
Any advice on the whole process?
How to clean rear differential cover without damaging?
Thanks in advance.
92 W350 flatbed with duels, club cab, stock engine, automatic (for now), 4" exhaust, air bags
mrc
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Re: Rear pinion seal

Postby PToombs » Sat Mar 26, 2016 5:30 pm

I think I would look at it and see how bad it is before buying a sleeve. Usually a different seal is used with a sleeve. You can put the seal in not as deep to stay out of the same spot.
I ran 85w-140, then after I put in my LSD I put in 80w-90 with LSD additive. It was what we had at work.
Your choice as long as it withstands gear oil.
Pull the cover, clean it out, maybe use brake cleaner to get a look at things.
Scrape it off, maybe use a wire wheel to clean the gasket or RTV, then rinse with brake cleaner.
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Re: Rear pinion seal

Postby thrashingcows » Sat Mar 26, 2016 6:57 pm

Is your diff a LSD, or Powerloc? If it is then you'll want to stay away from the synthetic fluid...only good old conventional gear oil. I was having clutch chatter from my rebuilt D70 rear diff, with rebuilt power loc, and thought going to synthetic would make it better...NOPE...made it worse! Finally went back to my diff guy and explained what was happening. He told me to go buy Lucas 85W140 and then add 1.5 bottles of the Ford Motocraft limited slip additive....Anything else is junk in his opinion. ;) Within a week the chatter was gone, and the diff has never been so smooth!
1984/93 Dodge Crewcab, W350, 1 Ton SRW, long box, 330K Km's, M&H spacer, 366 spring, fuel pin to deep side, 14cm housing, Piston LP, PS IC, Isspro Boost, Pyro and tach, NV4500, 29 spline NP205, 3.54's.


Check out the build....http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/ ... 05923.html
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Re: Rear pinion seal

Postby mrc » Sun Mar 27, 2016 7:50 am

I was going to go with 75w 140 synthetic, but after the advice think I'll go conventional. I'm new to working on this truck and finding that the previous owner left a lot of things undone. Guess I'm a little OCD with a 23 year old truck. This will be first time doing pinion seal and all I know is what I saw online. Any words of wisdom?
92 W350 flatbed with duels, club cab, stock engine, automatic (for now), 4" exhaust, air bags
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Re: Rear pinion seal

Postby thrashingcows » Sun Mar 27, 2016 10:48 am

Sorry I can't offer any other advice....I was going to re/re my own diffs, but time and circumstance dictated that I take it to my diff guy to get the work done. And I'm not sad that I did either. After the re/gearing from 4.10 to 3.54 I had both front and rear diff pinion seals start leaking...so just brought it back and he looked after it. Haven't had any other issue other then the clutch chatter mentioned earlier.
1984/93 Dodge Crewcab, W350, 1 Ton SRW, long box, 330K Km's, M&H spacer, 366 spring, fuel pin to deep side, 14cm housing, Piston LP, PS IC, Isspro Boost, Pyro and tach, NV4500, 29 spline NP205, 3.54's.


Check out the build....http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/ ... 05923.html
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Re: Rear pinion seal

Postby mrc » Sun Mar 27, 2016 12:33 pm

Thanks for input, I'm trying to save a little money and learn at the same time, if all else fails I know a good mobile mechanic.
92 W350 flatbed with duels, club cab, stock engine, automatic (for now), 4" exhaust, air bags
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Re: Rear pinion seal

Postby mrc » Sun Mar 27, 2016 7:52 pm

Having trouble getting the pinion nut broke free, going to try tomorrow with a large cheater bar. Glad I opened up the diff, looked like light chocolate pudding, breather valve was clogged, replaced everything, just put a couple cans of brake cleaner through it, looks good. Heard a guy put diesel in and ran it, sounds crazy. Hopefully get it apart and back together tomorrow. Crossing fingers that I can get the nut off. Any suggestions?
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Re: Rear pinion seal

Postby CumminsPower59 » Mon Mar 28, 2016 5:13 am

The pinion nut is a typical "pinch or top lock" nut, so it'll be on there good. Usually, a 1/2 impact will get it free, but I have had to put a little heat on them before. Usually, I don't reuse them either.

thrashingcows wrote:Is your diff a LSD, or Powerloc? If it is then you'll want to stay away from the synthetic fluid...only good old conventional gear oil. I was having clutch chatter from my rebuilt D70 rear diff, with rebuilt power loc, and thought going to synthetic would make it better...NOPE...made it worse! Finally went back to my diff guy and explained what was happening. He told me to go buy Lucas 85W140 and then add 1.5 bottles of the Ford Motocraft limited slip additive....Anything else is junk in his opinion. ;) Within a week the chatter was gone, and the diff has never been so smooth!


Also depends on what style of clutches were used. Did they use steel and fiber disks or all steel?

mrc wrote:Guess I'm a little OCD with a 23 year old truck. This will be first time doing pinion seal and all I know is what I saw online. Any words of wisdom?


Here are some good, old school PDF versions of the Dana Spicer service manuals ;)
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5312-9.pdf
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/AXSM-0053.pdf
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5315-3.pdf
Ike

91 W350 SRW, 3.07's, NV4500, 370's, THD LPPP, Super HX40, 2nd gen IC swap, BHAF, Isspro's, 2" lift, 285's on 3rd gen 17"'s.
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Re: Rear pinion seal

Postby mrc » Mon Mar 28, 2016 7:40 am

Thanks for all the great info, I'll be looking inside with more of a critical eye. I bought synthetic 75w 140 by royal purple with the additive mixed in. But still in the bottle at this point, I could go exchange it for something different. My local parts store didn't carry Lucas gear oil in that weight and I read that some guys have had success with royal purple. Worst case I'd be out $60 and replace with a different weight. I'll keep you posted on progress and thanks for the pdf files.
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Re: Rear pinion seal

Postby CumminsPower59 » Mon Mar 28, 2016 10:12 am

I forgot to mention in my post earlier, that all I used in the diffs in my 91 is just plain old farm store 80W90 and a bottle of Spicer limited slip additive. I've always wondered how well the heavier weights and synthetics would work, especially in colder temperatures.
Ike

91 W350 SRW, 3.07's, NV4500, 370's, THD LPPP, Super HX40, 2nd gen IC swap, BHAF, Isspro's, 2" lift, 285's on 3rd gen 17"'s.
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Re: Rear pinion seal

Postby PToombs » Mon Mar 28, 2016 4:22 pm

I usually put a 2 or 3 foot pipe wrench on the yoke to hold it, braced against the frame or the ground, then the 3/4 drive with a cheater pipe to break the nut loose. 3/4 drive torque wrench to tighten. (with the pipe wrench ;) )
pete

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Re: Rear pinion seal

Postby mrc » Mon Mar 28, 2016 5:05 pm

Got it all done, had to use a pipe wrench, a cheater bar, and my brother. Yoke slid right off and seal came right out, and low and behold, it was installed backwards with the spring on the outside. Installed new seal after cleaning and it fits in there perfectly. Now I know if it goes out again, it's only a half hour job. Going to let the RTV set overnight and put in the oil in the morning. Ended up getting the cheap 80w90 that Spicer recommends and some additive. Not too bad for a novice. Thanks for all the advice, will definitely post more on this site. Have a valve adjustment scheduled in 2 days, then my truck should be golden. Thanks again.
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Re: Rear pinion seal

Postby b4autodark » Sat May 14, 2016 6:36 pm

Great info, I will have to put a new seal in mine soon, dripping all over the floor.
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Re: Rear pinion seal

Postby Remps » Sun May 15, 2016 8:43 am

I am running conventional 85-140 in the 96. On the hill where I live I can hit 50 kph in neutral in plus temps. -40 C = 15 kph coasting down the same hill. I just drive really slow till the truck feels like it "rolls easier", then I know its warmed up. Running 140 wt got rid of my pinion seal leak for now, only reason I'm running it.
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