bypass abs

everything but the drivetrain

Moderators: Greenleaf, BC847, Richie O

bypass abs

Postby hummin cummins » Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:43 pm

im bypassing all the abs brakes on the truck and was wondering if i have any reason to have to use the piece on the top of the rear axle on the driver side or if I can completely bypass it.
Cummins 250 bd xxx injectors, stage iv/18, bhaf, fuel pin, 3200 gsp, valet swtch, isspro tach, autometer pyro and boost, full screw turned up
hummin cummins
fuel pin?
 
Posts: 20
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 10:15 am
Location: WI

Postby sdstriper » Mon Jan 15, 2007 6:33 pm

You mean the part that is on the drivers side frame?
1989 D250, 727, 3.07, BHAF, 4" exhaust, Usual Suspect Gauges, tuned VE, OSPP
sdstriper
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 297
Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:57 pm
Location: Sioux Falls, SD

Postby RumbleFish » Mon Jan 15, 2007 6:53 pm

Yeah, there's penty of reasons to keep your abs box. Door stop, hammer, wheel chock, etc....I'm sure you can come up with something :wink:
User avatar
RumbleFish
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 2648
Joined: Thu Jan 11, 2007 1:19 pm
Location: Indiana
Top

Postby TWorline » Mon Jan 15, 2007 8:45 pm

Go ahead and bypass it, don't forget to unplug the abs computer behind the glovebox.
Tim Worline
1992 W250 Club Cab LE, S300 62/71, 5" stainless intake, 4" into 5" exhaust, ATS exhaust manifold, SDX 5X18 Injectors, AirDog 150, Borgeson shaft, Coolingmist Vari-cool, Con OFEK, 3" Stainless CoolerTubz, 354/749.

http://www.CoolerTubz.com/
User avatar
TWorline
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 2480
Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 6:32 pm
Location: Continental, Oh.
Top

Postby hummin cummins » Tue Jan 16, 2007 10:13 am

the two rear drum lines go into it and then there is a rubber hose going to the valve on the frame and i am also guessing that it is a breather hose that comes off of it? I think im gonna try bypassing it, if it doesnt work ill just go from there
thanks for all the info
Cummins 250 bd xxx injectors, stage iv/18, bhaf, fuel pin, 3200 gsp, valet swtch, isspro tach, autometer pyro and boost, full screw turned up
hummin cummins
fuel pin?
 
Posts: 20
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 10:15 am
Location: WI
Top

Postby PToombs » Tue Jan 16, 2007 4:30 pm

Not that! :shock: The Y on the axle stays. That is the splitter for each side, and the axle vent. The bolt is the vent, and the hose is on that. Only bypass the valve on the frame above the axle. And unplug the box behind the glove box, which will eliminate unwanted lights.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
User avatar
PToombs
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 11367
Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 6:13 pm
Location: Syracuse NY. Snow central!
Top

Postby sdstriper » Wed Jan 17, 2007 2:40 pm

The valve on the frame is definately all you need to lose, door stop, paper weight etc. And unplug the ABS controller behind the glove-box. Here's some fitting numbers for you, Napa parts, 202 x 5 and 252 x 3. These require some bending of the lines I believe. Daniel Pucket has some P/N's that don't require bending of the brake lines I think.
1989 D250, 727, 3.07, BHAF, 4" exhaust, Usual Suspect Gauges, tuned VE, OSPP
sdstriper
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 297
Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:57 pm
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
Top

Postby sdstriper » Wed Jan 17, 2007 2:46 pm

Here they are Napa numbers again, supposed to be no bending required, I wouldn't know for sure though... wea7917 and wea7828
1989 D250, 727, 3.07, BHAF, 4" exhaust, Usual Suspect Gauges, tuned VE, OSPP
sdstriper
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 297
Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:57 pm
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
Top

Postby hummin cummins » Wed Jan 17, 2007 8:59 pm

well got done bypassing the abs stuff and i installed a new tee where the old one used to be. bled the brakes and the pedal is still soft. im guessin that there must be some air bubbles. the pedal almost goes to the floor but when you pump it it gets firm
thanks
Cummins 250 bd xxx injectors, stage iv/18, bhaf, fuel pin, 3200 gsp, valet swtch, isspro tach, autometer pyro and boost, full screw turned up
hummin cummins
fuel pin?
 
Posts: 20
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 10:15 am
Location: WI
Top

Postby hummin cummins » Thu Jan 18, 2007 5:55 pm

the pedal almost goes to the floor until it works and when it is almost to the floor the brakes barely work... if i pump them they will get firm and work awesome but when i let off completely it gets soft again
Cummins 250 bd xxx injectors, stage iv/18, bhaf, fuel pin, 3200 gsp, valet swtch, isspro tach, autometer pyro and boost, full screw turned up
hummin cummins
fuel pin?
 
Posts: 20
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 10:15 am
Location: WI
Top

Postby sdstriper » Thu Jan 18, 2007 7:20 pm

I would bleed the whole sysytem again, in fact I would replace every drop of fluid as well. Brake fluid does get moisture in it which contributes to poor quality braking. I plan on going through the brakes on one of the trucks and using the spendy stuff, synthetic, less prone to moisture etc. The price will kill you though...
1989 D250, 727, 3.07, BHAF, 4" exhaust, Usual Suspect Gauges, tuned VE, OSPP
sdstriper
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 297
Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:57 pm
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
Top

Postby hummin cummins » Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:00 pm

thanks for the idea ill run through and do that tomorrow and if it doesnt work im just gonna throw an anchor out the window and save myself some stress :D
Cummins 250 bd xxx injectors, stage iv/18, bhaf, fuel pin, 3200 gsp, valet swtch, isspro tach, autometer pyro and boost, full screw turned up
hummin cummins
fuel pin?
 
Posts: 20
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 10:15 am
Location: WI
Top

Postby dpuckett » Mon Jan 29, 2007 5:20 pm

there is some flexing/ bending of the lines required. There is enough room to operate under there that I dont thinnk it is an issue.

DP
His- 93 W250 club cab LE, auto to Getrag conversion, piston lift pump, 3.54 LSD. 400k+
Hers- 04 QC 4x4. Built auto, Triple Dog, Air Dog. Funny Round truck that aint so quiet.
dpuckett
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 2196
Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2007 4:33 pm
Location: Perryville MO
Top

Postby mojo » Tue Jan 30, 2007 11:25 am

First reply here so let me give it a shot. I fought ABS and poor breaking for a while. Took it to a good break guy and with a little bleeding and some TIGHT adjusting they have neve worked better. I would bleed, adjust check and adjust until you can rule out they are not adjusted properly.
mojo
fuel pin?
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Thu Jan 18, 2007 11:15 am
Location: SE Wisconsin
Top

anti lock

Postby charger 69 » Mon Apr 30, 2007 10:13 am

I may be all wet but I wonder if the flexable brake lines are a problem.I have the same thing with a spongey pedal and I have replaced everything except the power booster and the 3 rubber lines and have blead it so many times I lost count. :? Since I eliminated the anti-lock valve the truck stops twice as good as it did before and the rear doesn't lock up.
92 White D350 132K,mi. fuel screw in 3,5 turns automatic with a Hughes converter and 26K add on cooler.Aluminum wheels,second fuel tank,gooseneck hitch,air bags tach.and gages,
charger 69
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 47
Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:27 pm
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Top

Next

Return to Chassis

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 28 guests