D70 axle spindle threads boogered up

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D70 axle spindle threads boogered up

Postby bgilbert » Thu May 15, 2008 5:33 pm

One of the axle spindles threads is all messed up from a previous owner. The original nut is all boogered up too. I went and bought a new one at NAPA, and it wouldn't even go on without loosing all of it's threads. There went $16 :evil: . I tried a thread file and some regular files to clean the threads up but that didn't help. Long story short, ended up placing two lock washers (old style) behind the original boogered up nylock nut. This sorta spaced it out further to where it had 'good' threads and would hold tight. Without the two washers the nut would get loose before the hub unit would get tight.

Well now I have a oil seal leak from that side. Should've put a new seal in when I did the brake job a few weeks ago :roll: . Since I'm going to pull the two wheels, axle shaft and hub again to replace the seal, figured I'd try to fix these threads up/do it right etc.

My question or point of this thread is, is there a die this big to cut new threads or clean these boogered threads up? I imagine it would be high dollar, if one exists I wonder if a drivetrain shop would loan it out, for a fee of course...?
Bill Gilbert
85 D350 crew with 90 6BT intercooled Getrag 3.07's
93 D350 single cab Getrag 3.54's.
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Postby Ace » Thu May 15, 2008 5:48 pm

I hate it when that happens! I had to spend a couple days ripping out and redoing botched wiring the PO had put in mine before I got it. The tool you need probably exists somewhere, but I've never seen or heard of it....
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Postby Philip » Thu May 15, 2008 6:26 pm

Bill go to snap on and put in part # TR21A . These items are not cheap. I don't have one eather.



I dought if a shop would rent one out if they had it. It would have to a big truck shop.
93 W350 Club/cab w/duals, buckets & console, B&W flatbed, G56, 6 spd, 3:07 rears, gages, HX40/16, 4" exhaust, 6X.018 sticks, rear air ride suspension
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Postby PToombs » Fri May 16, 2008 6:12 pm

Just throw some extra nuts on it like the guy on TDR found. ;-) :lol:
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UPDATE

Postby bgilbert » Sat May 17, 2008 10:07 am

Ah, well I'm am sure glad I seen oil leaking from it when I did, before the drive to Indy. Pulled both dual wheels off. With the first smack of the hammer to the axle shaft to help get the coned washers loose, the whole hub/drum and axle shaft moved forward and back quite noticeable. Seems the worn out/boogered up nylock nut backed off. That or the threads on the nut and or shaft rounded more :mad: :mad: . This probly wouldn't have made it to Indy. I haven't driven it much if at all lately, since fixing the rear brakes.

So.. after some digging I've found an OTC and Euclid tool just like the HIGH dollar snap on tool Philip mentioned above. Euclid tool runs $130, NAPA wants $104. What I'm concerned about, in the tool description it calls it a thread chaser. Not an expensive thread cutting die/piece of equipment etc. Come to look closer at my threads, the first one or two are boogered up, the rest look to be rounded or flat. They are clean for the most part though, you can see they are straight.

Is this spindle gone for, or would one of these thread chaser's do the trick? Will it cut or shapen them or what? I don't mind spending the $100 bucks if it will work. But if the spindle is too far gone, I don't want to buy the tool, then turn around and have to get a new spindle welded on or a new housing altogether.

Philip or anyone know if these tools work ok?
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Postby dodgetkboy78 » Sat May 17, 2008 11:11 am

Sounds like you need some patience, and a little thread file. If the high spots on the threads are gone, put enough flat washers under the locknut to get to the good threads.
There is a machine shop here, that can rethread spindles, he has something that actually bolts onto the backing plate, and turns it if the bearing has galled, he even welds them back up and starts from scratch.
Or, find a 70 housing, it cant be that hard.
Make sure, if you use the flat washer trick, you take a cold chisel and nick the threads on the outside of the nut, because I don't trust them nylon ford type lock nuts anyway.
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Postby Philip » Sat May 17, 2008 2:24 pm

I have used them before Bill. They are a thread chaser. They don't cut new threads very well. From the way your talking about the shape the threads are in. It sounds iffy if they will clean up enough to work properly.
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Postby PToombs » Sat May 17, 2008 5:53 pm

I agree with Philip. It sounds like they are pretty bad. If the threads are pushed down, beat over or what ever, a thread chaser is only going to take the high spots off. This will leave you with less thread. If they are just boggered a little, it would be ok.
I think you should be looking for a new spindle or housing.
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Postby bgilbert » Sat May 17, 2008 6:13 pm

PToombs wrote:I think you should be looking for a new spindle or housing.

Well sorta leaning that way unfortunately after another round of trying to get the old style nuts on it, doing Bearkiller on DTR's trick of a homemade die of sorts. The nut will eventually go on there... after enough of it's threads are removed :mad: . I've got the Dana 60 that came out of the crew, it's got the exact same spindles. Guess I'll have to talk to the local medium/heavy duty drivetrain shop and price the cut/reweld of the spindle :shock: :oops: :oops: .

Note to guys thinking about a crew cab swap. It might be best to start with a known good donor vehicle instead of a beat to hell, everything needs rebuilt, no title junker :roll: .
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Postby Cschafer » Sat May 17, 2008 6:54 pm

I'm sure i'll get some argument over this but if it's possible to get the nut tight enough before it's junk get it there and tack weld it on.
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Postby bgilbert » Sun May 18, 2008 7:18 am

Cschafer wrote:I'm sure i'll get some argument over this but if it's possible to get the nut tight enough before it's junk get it there and tack weld it on.

The thought has definately crossed my mind. I suppose if/when I get quote on spindle replacement at my local shop I'll probly lean more to something like that.
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Postby BEARKILLER » Sun May 18, 2008 10:00 am

There is another option.

In most big truck-stops, there are racks of FREE trucking magazines.

In those magazines are ads for a MOBILE SPINDLE REPAIR company, that has representatives in every state.

These guys are spindle experts that can completely rebuild a spindle, still on the truck, on the side of the road.

What they will do to your spindle is lay on a layer of weld, true it to round, then cut new threads.

They probably have a website.
MY TRUCK = 1985 FORD F-350 2wd, 89 1st.Gen.Cummins,Getrag 5-sp,Dana70 3:55

WIFE'S TRUCK = 1991.5 D-250 I/C, Auto

SON'S TRUCK = 1990 W-250 Getrag

#4 = 1991 D-350 LE Getrag
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Postby PToombs » Sun May 18, 2008 1:06 pm

Shoot Bearkiller, they charge more than Bill paid for the truck. You think he's going to double his investment? :lol:
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Postby bgilbert » Sun May 18, 2008 2:18 pm

Actually I think what Bearkiller suggested has already been done to it. At least where the outer bearing rides, it's definately been welded up then turned down. I think the threads were done at that time as well. I'm gonna get two of the old style nuts on, then Matt and I are gonna try tacking it in three spots. I figure it's shot, so I won't be hurting it. Then I'll be looking for a dually parts truck or a D80. If I could just get Daniel to come down on his price for old Green :D .
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Postby BEARKILLER » Sun May 18, 2008 8:49 pm

Before you weld, install all new brakes, springs, park-brake cable, bearings, races, seal, etc., so it will be good for the long haul; you don't want to hear something squeeling and see part of a brake-spring sticking out the back side.


Are you afraid the nuts might jump over the threads; or, are you afraid they will simply loosen ??

With that folding-tab lock-washer, they can't go anywhere, unless they jump the threads.
MY TRUCK = 1985 FORD F-350 2wd, 89 1st.Gen.Cummins,Getrag 5-sp,Dana70 3:55

WIFE'S TRUCK = 1991.5 D-250 I/C, Auto

SON'S TRUCK = 1990 W-250 Getrag

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