installing dust boots on tie rod and drag link ends

everything but the drivetrain

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installing dust boots on tie rod and drag link ends

Postby U.S MMA » Thu Jan 01, 2009 8:06 am

what is the best way to do this without having to get another alignment? I got one about 1000miles ago and don't want to pony up another 60 bucks. I figure on a level shop floor, wheels straight ahead, then what, count the threads on the end links? What is the sure fire method? After 1 1/2 years Ive gotten my pile to track straight down the road, I don't want to mess it up(or pay anyone).
90w250,5spd,flatbed,dually swap, power lock ,kelderman, fresh trans rebuild, valair stocker,newer 9leaf,2"skyjacker
3200,60wheel65 16 pacbrake,60exhaustsprings,93 head, snowstage3,
custom bumper broken winch,topboxes,underboxes. J&H helped out a lot. slowly restoring(real slowly)
U.S MMA
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Location: fairbanks ak

Postby Ace » Thu Jan 01, 2009 10:40 am

Just put it back together as close as you can, count threads or whatever, measure the toe and go from there. That's about all there is to adjust on the solid axle 4wd trucks. The adjustment is pretty fine, quarter turn increments is all I ever had to do.

I can't believe anyone takes a Wx50 to an shop for alignment. It's too easy to do it yourself.
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Ace
14mm rotor
 
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Postby U.S MMA » Thu Jan 01, 2009 12:46 pm

thanks ace. I have been told that having the nut on the drag link end off just a little bit can cause problems, and generally when I just go ahead and do something without fully understanding it first, I screw it up somehow.
90w250,5spd,flatbed,dually swap, power lock ,kelderman, fresh trans rebuild, valair stocker,newer 9leaf,2"skyjacker
3200,60wheel65 16 pacbrake,60exhaustsprings,93 head, snowstage3,
custom bumper broken winch,topboxes,underboxes. J&H helped out a lot. slowly restoring(real slowly)
U.S MMA
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 28
Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 6:02 pm
Location: fairbanks ak
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