Gooseneck balls

everything but the drivetrain

Moderators: Greenleaf, BC847, Richie O

Gooseneck balls

Postby Farmboy » Fri Feb 05, 2010 5:43 am

Has anyone ever seen those gooseneck balls that have the safety chain straps attached to the bottom of the ball and you screw it down into the frame under the bed? Kind of like a big wingnut, if you will. I am thinking about building a goosneck hitch for my truck while I have it apart painting it. That is the design that I am currently leaning towards but I can't find a ball anywhere. Worst case, I will just take a long shanked ball and tack on the safety strap/wingnut part. So, if anyone knows where to get them please inlighten me. :D
1990 W350 4X4 NOW INTERCOOLED 5-speed. Boost/Pyro. Few light tweaks to the pump. Now a dually with an aluminum flatbed!!
User avatar
Farmboy
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 620
Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2008 11:47 am
Location: Between the corn fields of Ohio

Postby KTA » Fri Feb 05, 2010 7:28 am

Yeah Redneck trailer sales in Sikeston Mo had those last time I was there.
Fleet of Junk: 1989 D350 627rwhp 1300 tq B-1/Hx60 twins, KTA pump/injectors, ported head, BIG fuel supply. 13.75@ 109.5mph 1/4: 1992 W350 Cab-chasis, 1993 W350 ext cab cust.370 inj Hx40/16cm 290rwhp hydroboost brakes,1984 D350 crew-cab another project.
User avatar
KTA
diesel guru/mod
 
Posts: 1855
Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 2:23 pm
Location: Shelby County, Ky

Postby Mark Nixon » Fri Feb 05, 2010 8:49 am

Technically the safety chains are supposed to be connected to a point that's on the frame, or ball securement structure.
Most frame-type 5th wheel plates have a pair of high tensile strength U-bolts that pass through the bed, via the 5th wheel plate, to attach the safety chains to.

The reasoning is that a 5th wheel ball, like a tagger ball, is actually the weak link, in that the threads are a fracture point, therefore are not the place for any apparatus to attach in the event of a breakaway.

Your breakaway brake lanyard is technically also supposed to be connected to a point with a frame-related attachment.

Mark.
Mark Nixon
 
Top

Postby txs » Sat Feb 06, 2010 8:51 am

breakaway landyard, you mean a trailers supposed to have BRAKES! What a concept, I should try it sometime.
93 w250 6 speed 4" exhaust, caution, work truck, she's no beauty. building 1 ton dually 4x4, dana 80, 48rh, 205 Scratch the one ton, bought frt. dually 4x4 98 12 valve with the tiny rear doors. rides so much better than the 93.
txs
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 556
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:48 am
Location: south cumberland plateau, tenn
Top

Postby Mark Nixon » Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:34 am

If you've ever had a trailer WITH BRAKES, try one with a good set.
You'll never want one without them.
Federal Law requires braking axle(s) and a breakaway system for trailers over 3,000 pounds and they require it on ALL WHEELS TOUCHING THE GROUND.
Most STATES require at least 1 braking axle on a muti-axle trailer, along with a breakaway system.

Trailer brakes, electric or hydro-surge, aren't the most responsive, nor the strongest, but the control you have with them, after having not had them, is definitely noticeable.
It also stands to reason, would you drive a car/truck that had no brakes at all?
Then why pull the same vehicle and weight with no brakes, behind a truck designed to carry only half again it's own weight in braking, too?

The biggest mistake I've seen is people not keeping them maintained.
If you go long distances all the time with your trailer, when you grease and change oil on the truck that pulls it, you should adjust the brakes and lube the trailer, too.
They are extremely sensitive to adjustment.
Pull hubs and re-pack wheel bearings AT LEAST once a year.

Remember, with the absolute control of Law Enforcement, you can get stopped for ANYTHING, and getting tickets for faulty equipment in the process isn't unheard of.

Mark.
Mark Nixon
 
Top

Postby txs » Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:56 am

hell my trailer tags have been expired for a year, I can get anywhere around here within a 75 miles radius by going the back way, I call it avoiding the dot game.
93 w250 6 speed 4" exhaust, caution, work truck, she's no beauty. building 1 ton dually 4x4, dana 80, 48rh, 205 Scratch the one ton, bought frt. dually 4x4 98 12 valve with the tiny rear doors. rides so much better than the 93.
txs
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 556
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:48 am
Location: south cumberland plateau, tenn
Top

Postby GO OVRIT » Sat Feb 06, 2010 5:46 pm

txs wrote:hell my trailer tags have been expired for a year, I can get anywhere around here within a 75 miles radius by going the back way, I call it avoiding the dot game.


That only lasts so long. ;)
92 W250 ext cab 518, big sticks, a-1000, PDR HX40, 4" exhaust w/aeroturbine, pump tweaked, K&N filter Tims Cooler tubes and 3" i/c, gauges
GO OVRIT
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 554
Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 8:59 pm
Location: Gloucester Va.
Top


Return to Chassis

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 65 guests