HX35 Upgrade!

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HX35 Upgrade!

Postby m880cummins » Tue Nov 15, 2011 2:47 pm

So, I can't drive my truck for another 2 weeks due to my broken leg concluding the major healing process so I decided it would be a good time to tear into it. The stock H1C produces 24 psi of boost but has some lag and I need to get rid of the lag with my stick shift so figured I might as well put on the FREE turbo. Turbo has 60,000 miles and was on a mid 90s ram.

Plan is;
1. Take manifold and turbo off as a unit,
2. sandblast manifold and exhaust housing,
3. gasket-match the ports,
4 rust treat manifold and ex housing,
5. coat with cast manifold gray,
6. Tap the turbo compressor for a boost elbow
7. set up the exhaust brake
8. mount using new exhaust manifold bolts and gaskets and adapt the aftermarket filter for a 4" inlet 45 degree bend steel tube.

Current set up:

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The HX35

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The locked-up WH1C that's donating the w/g 12cm2 exhaust housing.

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I will post pictures of my home-brew exhaust brake. It is a 1/4" steel plate with 3" standoff and a butterfly valve. It is controlled by an electric actuator that will have a momentary toggle switch on the shifter!

New outlet was made from 3" schedule 80 pipe tig welded to a piece of 1/4" plate (first time ever tig welding)

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Sandblasted exhaust housing:

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Butterfly made out of 1/8" steel and 5/16 SS bolt that I put into the mill and milled it to half the diameter for a flat spot to weld the plate onto:

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Waste gate welded shut:

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Then treated with muratic acid and washed, then brushed on some POR 20 heat resistant paint to 2000 degrees

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The way it works is the spring returns the butterfly to the open position and then I plan on buying a continuous duty actuator from mcmaster carr and that will close it and I will have to make an adjustable stop so I don't make too much back pressure and blow stuff up :S:

NEW VS OLD!

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Manifold was sandblasted, rust treated, casting deburred, egt drilled and ported:

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Exhaust:

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Turbo on:

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I am very impressed with the quick spool up but this turbo is actually making LESS boost than stock!!!:confused013: I had a great bit of trouble getting the compressor housing on (Has the snap ring) and the snap ring would not seat completely. I had it apart for a few months and I'm thinking the O ring might have swelled enough to increase the clearance between the compressor and compressor wheel. We are talking .020". Would that affect my boost much?

Also, the exhaust brake works great manually. I need to mount the actuator for it later this week......

As a result of the new turbo with the homemade exhaust brake, the downpipe was moved back 2.5" and had some clearance issues with the heater. I had to shorten the downpipe on the turbo side. Have the full exhaust on now with a muffler (4") and love it. Nice deep tone but quiet inside.

If you hook a manual pull cable to the exhaust brake you can pull it on and if someone is riding your ass down the road just hammer the accelerator and black out the whole road.

Charlie
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Re: HX35 Upgrade!

Postby oldestof11 » Tue Nov 15, 2011 4:04 pm

Nice project!

Now, get the flamesuit on...

Welding the butterfly valve to the shaft was probably not the best thing. Especially since you had the means to mill in a flat spot in the shaft. Would have been nothing for 2 screws and since it was downstream of the turbo, I wouldn't have worried anything coming loose to destroy anything expensive.

12cm, welded wastegate, stock valve springs, exhaust brake, and stock NON-IC sticks is asking for a headgasket failure.

Sorry about the bum leg...
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Re: HX35 Upgrade!

Postby Tacoclaw » Tue Nov 15, 2011 4:20 pm

Cool stuff. 8)

I don't see the harm in the welded brake, since it's self contained. If something happens it's just 5 bolts to pull it off the turbo. Besides, better it's stuck in there than to have it fall off while coming down a mountain with a load.

No comments on the HG issues though. I had a 12cm housing and no IC/non-IC'd sticks and never had any HG problems, but I didn't have an exhaust brake either. :/

It may not hurt to pull them, clean/oil them, and retorque them.
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Re: HX35 Upgrade!

Postby cmann250 » Tue Nov 15, 2011 4:57 pm

Just my $.02 here on the exhaust brake, but 7.3L PSD's have an EBV (exhaust back-pressure valve) right behind the turbo, it's a butterfly valve just like that and the valve part never fails. The valve part is riveted onto the shaft, not welded though
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Re: HX35 Upgrade!

Postby ahale2772 » Wed Nov 16, 2011 4:49 am

first, you may want to think about getting exhaust valve springs upgraded. IDK how tight that butterfly is in the flange, but its probably a good Idea to pull it offand put a bleed hole in it (if you dont want to upgrade the exhaust valves)

all the big MFG's do it, so that its not completly killing the engine.

I really like the idea though, i was thinking of making one a while back, but i dont want to have a leak around the butterfly shaft.

if that front cover is not seated all the way you will not see much for boost

also, probably not a good idea to mash the go-pedal with the exhaust brake closed. (even though, closing the brake with thre truck at idle is how some of the MFG's help warm up the engine)
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Re: HX35 Upgrade!

Postby collegekid » Wed Nov 16, 2011 8:42 am

Why is it not a good idea to weld the shaft to the butterfly valve??? You want it permanent don't you
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Re: HX35 Upgrade!

Postby ahale2772 » Wed Nov 16, 2011 9:02 am

well, if you found out it worked like crap then you would have to cut it out, or re-modify your douwpipe to put the stock outlet on
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Re: HX35 Upgrade!

Postby m880cummins » Wed Nov 16, 2011 1:47 pm

It works well and if I didn't like it I could easily bolt the cast blockoff outlet on and then use one of the v-band spacers.

Charlie
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Re: HX35 Upgrade!

Postby oldestof11 » Wed Nov 16, 2011 3:45 pm

I was thinking for ease of replacement/modification.
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Re: HX35 Upgrade!

Postby ahale2772 » Thu Nov 17, 2011 5:26 am

yup thats all, kudo's for having the guts to make your own thought, ive always thought the major brands charged a bit much for a valve :roll:
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Re: HX35 Upgrade!

Postby 1stgenblowingsmoke » Sat Nov 26, 2011 6:04 pm

oldestof11 wrote:Nice project!

Now, get the flamesuit on...

Welding the butterfly valve to the shaft was probably not the best thing. Especially since you had the means to mill in a flat spot in the shaft. Would have been nothing for 2 screws and since it was downstream of the turbo, I wouldn't have worried anything coming loose to destroy anything expensive.

12cm, welded wastegate, stock valve springs, exhaust brake, and stock NON-IC sticks is asking for a headgasket failure.

Sorry about the bum leg...


Am I missing something or are you saying this because he has the W/G welded shut? I'm upgrading my 90 to a hx35 in about 2 weeks not sure on if I'm going to use the stock first gen exhaust housing or the w/g'ed 12cm housing yet. The only way I can see that head gasket blowing is from to much boost.
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Re: HX35 Upgrade!

Postby Tacoclaw » Sat Nov 26, 2011 8:32 pm

Well, technically the wastegate won't matter once the brake is closed off, the exhaust still isn't going anywhere. You have to remember that boost is on the intake side, but drive pressure is on the exhaust. When the exhaust gets closed off, drive pressure will go through the roof. That would be just as likely to cause a H/G failure as any overboost.

I would personally always run a 'gated housing. It's not like it hurts anything down low, and it can only help up top.
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Re: HX35 Upgrade!

Postby m880cummins » Fri Dec 16, 2011 7:00 pm

Hey guys,

The HX has been working beautifully but now on to the exhaust brake....

I would like to run this:

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But not sure how to hook it up...

I was first thinking of on board air and then pressurize it to activate with an electric solenoid switch. But, now since people are talking drive pressure, can I make it so the higher the drive pressure, the more it opens the brake? I'm thinking like maybe I can tap the drive pressure in and when I accelerate the drive pressure increases and opens the brake or when the brake becomes too powerful the brake opens a little. Maybe with an adjustable spring? Trying to make this as simple as possible. How do I tap into exhaust drive pressure?
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Re: HX35 Upgrade!

Postby oldestof11 » Fri Dec 16, 2011 8:19 pm

What you can do is put the air cylinder on. Find out which end needs to open the wastegate. Now connect a sturdy spring to operate the other way.

Bimbo make a 1 input cylinder with a spring built in to return it to the closed position.
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Re: HX35 Upgrade!

Postby Tacoclaw » Fri Dec 16, 2011 9:17 pm

Depending on how crazy you are willing to get, you could run it off brake vacuum. Have a 12 volt valve set up to run off the brake switch. Anytime you hit the brakes it pulls the exhaust brake actuator.

Worst thing is that it will do it every time you hit the brakes, but you could wire a switch inline so it only works when you need it too.
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