Torque Links

Moderators: Greenleaf, BC847, Richie O

Torque Links

Postby Ace » Mon Mar 24, 2008 4:56 pm

Not sure if this is under the right heading here.
Last edited by Ace on Fri Feb 19, 2010 9:27 am, edited 4 times in total.
User avatar
Ace
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1023
Joined: Thu May 31, 2007 2:10 am
Location: CO

Postby TWorline » Tue Mar 25, 2008 12:11 pm

Ace, I for one am very impressed!!! :salut: I know just the guy to try these out, Bill you need a set on the Drag Queen! 8)
Tim Worline
1992 W250 Club Cab LE, S300 62/71, 5" stainless intake, 4" into 5" exhaust, ATS exhaust manifold, SDX 5X18 Injectors, AirDog 150, Borgeson shaft, Coolingmist Vari-cool, Con OFEK, 3" Stainless CoolerTubz, 354/749.

http://www.CoolerTubz.com/
User avatar
TWorline
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 2480
Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 6:32 pm
Location: Continental, Oh.

Postby GO OVRIT » Thu Mar 27, 2008 7:09 pm

Very nice. After looking at it and picturing how well it should work, I'm surprised that its the first design like it that I've seen.... other than the huge amount of time you obviously have in them. How well do you think the copper will hold up? If it wears out maybe this would work. http://www.mcmaster.com/ type UHMW in the search. Nice work. :grin:
92 W250 ext cab 518, big sticks, a-1000, PDR HX40, 4" exhaust w/aeroturbine, pump tweaked, K&N filter Tims Cooler tubes and 3" i/c, gauges
GO OVRIT
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 554
Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 8:59 pm
Location: Gloucester Va.
Top

Time will tell...

Postby Ace » Fri Mar 28, 2008 6:12 am

Yeah, I wondered about that and actually did not know exactly how that was going to be addressed at first. There's really not alot going on there. Most of the time they are just riding along not doing anything. So I got a sheet of .1" thick copper, cut out and attched those strips with tiny brass screws and JB weld. It's fairly trivial to replace them if/when necessary. Just grind off whatever's left when they wear out, re-drill/tap and put new ones on. So guess I'll just wait and see how it goes.
User avatar
Ace
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1023
Joined: Thu May 31, 2007 2:10 am
Location: CO
Top

Postby mhuppertz » Mon Oct 20, 2008 8:37 am

Hey Ace,
How are the traction bars holding up?
Are they working like you thought they would?
mhuppertz
 
Top

So Far, So Good...

Postby Ace » Mon Oct 20, 2008 9:57 am

No problems noted, rear seems solid and compliant under all conditions, even backing the trailer. I added some shock boots for dust covers to keep the sliders clean:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbum/C ... TD_169.jpg

Plan on taking them apart in the spring after they've been on there for a year to check for wear.
User avatar
Ace
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1023
Joined: Thu May 31, 2007 2:10 am
Location: CO
Top

Postby mhuppertz » Mon Oct 20, 2008 10:18 am

Did it completely stop the hop?
Do you have a side shot? I want to see how much ground clearence there is.
The geometry for the slider boggles my mind!!! :lol:
mhuppertz
 
Top

Postby Ace » Mon Oct 20, 2008 10:40 am

This pic shows the ground clearance better:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbum/C ... TD_151.jpg

I think that is going to be an issue with any type add-on bar. But they are out near the wheel, so not a big deal, especially if you don't offroad much.

I don't know if I was experiencing wheel "hop." Probably so in a race launch situation, but I don't beat on it too much. I just noticed it as some clutch grabbiness. It would shudder and lurch if I wasn't real careful letting out the clutch, especially in reverse. I guess it would be hopping if the clutch was just dumped like at the starting line, but not anymore. ;-)
User avatar
Ace
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1023
Joined: Thu May 31, 2007 2:10 am
Location: CO
Top

Postby Richie O » Mon Oct 20, 2008 5:44 pm

I have never had any wheel hop with my 89 w250. I think it is because the lift blocks in the rear are shorter then the later trucks.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
User avatar
Richie O
Administrator
 
Posts: 4171
Joined: Sat May 17, 2008 9:01 pm
Location: New England
Top

Postby redneckroot » Sun Oct 26, 2008 8:21 pm

Do you have any pic's of the bars connected to the rear axle?
1990 Restored with a bit of aftermarket goodies might be for sale?
1993 ex. cab 2wd soon to be 4wd Newest Project
1998 ex. cab 12v 4x4 now a 5 speed SOLD
User avatar
redneckroot
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 755
Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2008 7:50 am
Location: south of buffalo ny
Top

Postby Ace » Mon Oct 27, 2008 5:52 am

User avatar
Ace
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1023
Joined: Thu May 31, 2007 2:10 am
Location: CO
Top

Postby redneckroot » Mon Oct 27, 2008 6:33 am

Did you just washer space it down?
1990 Restored with a bit of aftermarket goodies might be for sale?
1993 ex. cab 2wd soon to be 4wd Newest Project
1998 ex. cab 12v 4x4 now a 5 speed SOLD
User avatar
redneckroot
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 755
Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2008 7:50 am
Location: south of buffalo ny
Top

Postby Ace » Mon Oct 27, 2008 6:49 am

Nope. Pics 127 and 129 show how the Torque Link bar mounting plate was contoured to fit the bottom of the shock plate like I mentioned in the initial post.

It snugs down on there for a tight fit and solid mount that would not be possible if it was spaced out like you asked. You'd need some pretty long u-bolts to do that and would make it weak and crappy - from an engineering standpoint. :P
User avatar
Ace
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1023
Joined: Thu May 31, 2007 2:10 am
Location: CO
Top


Return to Cool projects YOU can do

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 13 guests