KDP Fix On The Cheap

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KDP Fix On The Cheap

Postby RSWORDS » Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:15 pm

All the 12v and 24v Cummins engines have one deadly, fatal flaw... The KDP! 2001 and up are less likely to have the problem due to a case change but it is still worth a look! This small steal pin is used during assembly to locate the timing housing on the front of the engine. The problem though is that after many years and miles the vibrations of the engine work the pin loose and it can fall into the gear case and do ALOT of damage. Here you can see some damage caused by a KDP. (A) Is were the pin was once located and (B) is the damage done. (I found this pic on the net along time ago and am not sure whos it is, if you know please let me know)
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There are kits on the market to fix this problem or you can do it yourself, I'm a cheap ass so I went the DIY route.

I already had the front of my truck off for some other work but you can do this with just removing the radiator.
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First you need to remove the belt, then go after the four bolts holding the fan support to the block, I find it easier to remove the six bolts that hold the fan pulley to the shaft, slid the pulley forward so you have room to get to the bottom bolt, and take it off as one assembly. Here the six bolt have been removed and the pulley moved toward the front of the truck for access.
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And here is the front of the engine with the whole assembly gone
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Next we need to go after the crank pulley, its just four 15mm bolts. The easiest way to remove them is with a impact. If not you will need to keep the engine from rotating some how while you go at the with a 1/2' ratchet. Also go ahead and remove the oil fill tube. Un-bolt the mounting bracket at the head and then rotate th whole assembly counter-clockwise to unscrew it.
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Gone! Now start removing the 20 10mm bolts that hold the cover on, keep track because there are two lengths.
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Here is were you should be at! I put a red box around the area we will be concentrating on.
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Here is a close up, mine is still in place and has not moved. Yours may or may not be, go ahead and take a punch and hammer and tap it till it sits flush with the case.
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Now we are going to tab it. I got this solution from BC847, Thanks David!!! Remove the bolt next to the pin, then take a coat hanger and cut a small piece. Using some pliers bend up your piece of coat hanger to resemble this shape. Make sure the loop is a snug fit around the bolt.
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Now with your tab in place replace the bolt, put some red thread locking compound on the bolt and torque it to 18 ft/lbs.
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It would be a good time also now to remove the rest of the case bolts and put thread lock on them also, one of mine was not even snug any more... That would have been as bad as the KDP! There are two hidden behind the cam gear, don't forget them! You will have to rotate the engine till you can access them through the holes in the gear. I circled them in red here.
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Now its time to replace the cover, make sure all the old gasket material is removed and everything is REALLY clean. Then grab some RTV and run a bead around the lip and around all the bolt holes, you want NO gaps. Replace the cover and snug the bolts down. This is the RTV I use.
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Finally simply replace everything you took apart and enjoy your truck knowing that a 1/4" piece of steal wont kill your pride and joy!
Last edited by RSWORDS on Mon Jan 25, 2010 8:07 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby pulltilbroke » Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:22 pm

Nice wrightup :D

I usually use this stuff though

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automo ... aker_b.htm
90 W250 reg cab, Modified knuder valve, reversed reciprocting dinglearm adjusted, High volume flux capacitor,upgraded whirlygig, A clutch and a hitch
93 W350 ext cab dually, getrag and a few adjustments
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Postby RSWORDS » Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:28 pm

Quick question... Did you have to pull the front seal to remove the cover? Mine stayed in the cover and went back on with no troubles...
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Postby pulltilbroke » Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:34 pm

No, But we did replace the seal and used a speedi sleeve on the crank and we used the special seal guide when the cover went back on when we did my buddys ext cab

I havn't done mine yet. I know I know I should of done it a long time ago
90 W250 reg cab, Modified knuder valve, reversed reciprocting dinglearm adjusted, High volume flux capacitor,upgraded whirlygig, A clutch and a hitch
93 W350 ext cab dually, getrag and a few adjustments
pulltilbroke
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Postby RSWORDS » Sun Jan 24, 2010 9:04 pm

Yeah I need to replace my seal...
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Postby dpuckett » Mon Jan 25, 2010 3:41 pm

Be careful if you sleeve your cranks- not all sleeves are created equal. I had (a cheap) one on my W350 for a while, and it eventually leaked worse than with no sleeve. Turns out the sleeve had a groove worn in it. I took the sleeve off (or what was left of it), took a flat file, and filed down the grooves on the crank. finish up with some emery cloth, then crocus cloth (~600grit, IIRC), and clean it off real well.
His- 93 W250 club cab LE, auto to Getrag conversion, piston lift pump, 3.54 LSD. 400k+
Hers- 04 QC 4x4. Built auto, Triple Dog, Air Dog. Funny Round truck that aint so quiet.
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Postby pulltilbroke » Mon Jan 25, 2010 3:49 pm

We use only genuine Cummins parts
90 W250 reg cab, Modified knuder valve, reversed reciprocting dinglearm adjusted, High volume flux capacitor,upgraded whirlygig, A clutch and a hitch
93 W350 ext cab dually, getrag and a few adjustments
pulltilbroke
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Postby RSWORDS » Mon Jan 25, 2010 4:17 pm

Got a part number for the seal and install kit?
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Postby pulltilbroke » Mon Jan 25, 2010 4:21 pm

Yeah somewhere, i'll see if I can dig it up
90 W250 reg cab, Modified knuder valve, reversed reciprocting dinglearm adjusted, High volume flux capacitor,upgraded whirlygig, A clutch and a hitch
93 W350 ext cab dually, getrag and a few adjustments
pulltilbroke
14mm rotor
 
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Location: Eagle Ne
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Postby huntinguy » Mon Jan 25, 2010 7:34 pm

This should be a sticky!
89 non-I/C W-250, flatbed. 4" turbo back. Ground fuel pin, AFC tuning.
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Postby soggy » Mon Jan 25, 2010 7:40 pm

FWIW I did mine without removing the radiator. Good write up RSWORDS.
92 W250 VE Powered

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Postby PToombs » Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:28 pm

I did mine with the radiator in too. Lots more room this way though. I used a flat washer and welded another to it.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Re: KDP Fix On The Cheap

Postby rattlebox93 » Tue Aug 10, 2010 1:20 pm

mine fell out and got me so im taking the new gearcase to the local community college and welding the dam hole shut no mer kdp issures fo me!!!!
93 d350 extended cab dually, 5 speed, he351cw, industrial man ported, ported head, 60# springs, 6x16's, ballanced, coated slugs, lowerd comp, 354 spring, piston lp, 1/2 lines, con f, home made water in the works still not running but getting close
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Re: KDP Fix On The Cheap

Postby PToombs » Tue Aug 10, 2010 6:06 pm

If you bought a NEW gearcase, the hole is smaller on the front side so the pin can't come out. Typical manufacturer, shutting the barn door after the pin falls out. ;)
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Re: KDP Fix On The Cheap

Postby rattlebox93 » Tue Aug 10, 2010 7:45 pm

no used gearcase it will look pretty sharp im polishing the case intake plate and rocker covers painting the block and head red and ALL the accesseries, inj pump, brackets, oil pan, gear case cover oil cooler ect ect ect blackand detailing everything inder the hood and i even scored a neer perfect rams head hood orniment from the junk yard :!:
93 d350 extended cab dually, 5 speed, he351cw, industrial man ported, ported head, 60# springs, 6x16's, ballanced, coated slugs, lowerd comp, 354 spring, piston lp, 1/2 lines, con f, home made water in the works still not running but getting close
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