Adjust your Bands, shift points, and line pressure (pics)

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Adjust your Bands, shift points, and line pressure (pics)

Postby DZL_Damon » Thu Mar 11, 2010 8:24 pm

I recently found some pictures of the screws you can play with on your 727 or 518 without too much quality or direction. Since my tranny has never been quite right in my 89, I figured I'd take pictures along the way to show how incredibly easy this really was!! I can't believe I didn't do it sooner!

If you have a 2wd, I would highly suggest lifting the front end and putting it on jackstands. It's a little tight under my 2wd vs my 4wd. I would suggest putting the front on stands anyway so your transmission pan is tilted aft, and you know where the fluid is going to come out when you loosen the pan.

I took the truck for a drive to get the tranny fluid warm so it would drain out better for me first. Once the front end was up, I set up a few pig mats and my oil drain pan under the tranny pan. Loosen the 1/2" pan bolts and gently pull down on the after end of the pan. I loosened the after ones more than the forward ones so it could til even more back. After it didn't drain anymore, I removed all bolts except 2 that were diagonal from each other. I then pressed the pan back in place with one gloved hand while I removed the other two bolts. I then carefully lowered the 3/4 full pan to the floor, and then drained it out.

Remove the filter with the 3 long allen head screws. Take note how it's orientated along with the aluminum spacer. You can figure it out, but it's much easier if you take note of it now, the hole on the back of the filter MUST line up with the hole in the spacer upon re assembly.

FIRST, lets adjust the bands. You will need a small torque wrench that can dial in 72 inch pounds, OR 6 ft-lb. They are kind of expensive but you can use them for all sorts of things that we usually just say "good n' tight will work". I'm not sure how critical this is, I've read some transmission guru's do it by hand sometimes, but I am FAR from a transmission guru!

Anyway, you will also need a 5/16" 8 point socket...

Image

The band adjuster bolts have a rounded, square heads. I couldn't get any SAE or SI 12 point sockets to work since the edges of the head are slightly rounded. Luckily I had 5- 8 point sockets that came with my Craftsman tool kit that I've never used in 7 years until now.

This is the Front (kickdown) band adjustment, the square head screw with the 3/4" locknut. This is on the driver side. Left is forward, right is aft. That cable with the rubber boot is the kickdown cable. So if you can't find this band adjuster, just follow the cable down and you'll find it. FYI, the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) is just to the right behind that transmission cooler line in the middle of the picture. It has a few wires sticking out of it...

Image

Loosen the band adjustment screw lock nut 4-5 turns. Make sure band adjustment screw turns easily. Tighten the band adjustment screw to 72 inch-pounds, then back it off 2 1/2 turns. Hold the adjustment screw in place and tighten the lock nut back up. It's difficult to hold this and get the locknut tight without removing some linkage. I used a swiveling head 3/4" ratchet wrench and was able to do it. I held the adjuster with a socket and extensions while the ratchet I was using was in OFF (CCW) position to hold the screw in place.

Now the Rear Band adjustment. Loosen the band adjustment screw lock nut 5-6 turns and make sure the band adjustment screw moves freely. Tighten the adjusting screw also to 72 inch-pounds, but only back of 2 turns this time...

Image

Hold the adjustment screw in place same as before, and tighten the lock nut. This one is far easier to do...

Image

There, that was pretty simple! Now, we can monkey with the line pressure and shift points a little more if your kick down cable can't get all the adjustment you desire. I can see this adjustment being VERY good for 3200 rpm spring installs since it will help delay low throttle shifting without screwing up your WOT shift points via the kickdown cable...

I read not to adjust this more than 2 full turns CW, this is a 3/6" allen wrench. I only did 1 full turn and felt it helped a bit, but I also increased line pressure so I'm not sure which had better benefits...

Image

Next you'll need to modify a 3/16" allen wrench. I used a cheapy kicking around in my tool box, not my nice, ball ended one...

Image

Now, this will adjust your line pressure. This is good if you turned up your engine some, it will give a little more pressure on the clutch pack I believe. You should test line pressure from the testing ports and adjust it to a certain pressure, and only adjust so much beyond that too. I was lazy. I was told I could increase pressure 5 or 6 psi extra no matter what. Since I have a 21 year old transmission, my line pressure is probably a little lower than stock anyway.

To adjust line pressure, you need to turn this screw CCW. Every turn is about 2 1/2 - 3psi of line pressure. I gave it 2 full turns...
Image

Now I'm done. I installed my new transmission filter (that's for another thread), and reused the old pan gasket because it was a soft rubber and my new one from NAPA was cork . Don't over tighten the pan cause you are screwing into Aluminum. I think torque specs are only 13ft-lbs or something like that (good opportunity to use that expensive fancy torque wrench you just bought again!). Refill your tranny and check you fluid level IN NEUTRAL, not park. I always checked in park, and was running about 2 qts low because of this!

I warmed the truck up and adjusted my kickdown cable off a little so my WOT shifting didn't require a lift anymore. MAN, this tranny feels MUCH nicer now! At 55mph climbing a hill by my house I no longer have the engine climb to 2000 or 2100rpm. It stays at 1800-1900 or so. Burnouts are way too easy now, I definitely am VERY happy with these adjustments!!! I hope others can benefit from this as well. Happy Dieseling!

-Luke
-93 W350,CC, DRW, A518, Pump maxed, DDP3, DennyT, 4" DP, black muffler stack with flapper. HE351cw, CoolerTubz, PS I/C, 4601HP elec. fuel pump, 205k
-89 D250, clean utility bed, TF727, new IP, 76k
-09 VW TDI 2.0L CR, ~45mpg, 20k
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Re: Adjust your Bands, shift points, and line pressure (pics)

Postby 1STGENFARMBOY » Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:05 pm

Luke my friend you are a GOD send, i have been needing to do this for a while
but did'nt have any idea how to do it, i have went so far as mill a pice of linkage
to hold my kickdown leaver part of the way back cause i could'nt get it to adjust
to sute me, i need to drop my pan and replace my gasket anyhow and have been
puttin it off for this reason.


thanks abunch Dar :salut: :salut:
93 W250 STD CAB, AUTO 3.55, GAUGES, 80HP DDP STICKS, DENNY T ,16CM HOUSING, 60MM GILLETT, VE MAXED,BHAF, BHFF, 366 SPRING,P/S INTERCOOLER, TIMS COOLER TUBS, TIMMING 1/8 BUMP,4in TURBO BACK TO DUEL 5IN STACKS,33 12.50 BFG, HOLLEY BLACK, CONVERTER COOMING.
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Re: Adjust your Bands, shift points, and line pressure (pics)

Postby DZL_Damon » Fri Mar 12, 2010 7:32 am

EDIT: Please note that recent information has cleared up how much line pressure will change with each turn. I was told 2.5-3psi per turn. I assumed he meant full turns, apparently he meant the amount of turns your are able to do with the valvebody in the tranny (which is about 1/4 turn). So 2 full turns will jack the pressure up about 25 psi I've been recently told. I have not heard back if this is too much or not, but he did say you don't want to go above 150psi total. Since the stock setting is 90-96psi at 1600psi with the TV cable all the way back, I'm guessing I'm approaching that maximum with 2 full turns.
-93 W350,CC, DRW, A518, Pump maxed, DDP3, DennyT, 4" DP, black muffler stack with flapper. HE351cw, CoolerTubz, PS I/C, 4601HP elec. fuel pump, 205k
-89 D250, clean utility bed, TF727, new IP, 76k
-09 VW TDI 2.0L CR, ~45mpg, 20k
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Re: Adjust your Bands, shift points, and line pressure (pics)

Postby dpuckett » Tue Apr 06, 2010 6:48 pm

I cant see the 3rd from last pic- would you mind emailing it to me?

Dan
His- 93 W250 club cab LE, auto to Getrag conversion, piston lift pump, 3.54 LSD. 400k+
Hers- 04 QC 4x4. Built auto, Triple Dog, Air Dog. Funny Round truck that aint so quiet.
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Re: Adjust your Bands, shift points, and line pressure (pics)

Postby 1STGENFARMBOY » Tue Apr 06, 2010 8:50 pm

me to
93 W250 STD CAB, AUTO 3.55, GAUGES, 80HP DDP STICKS, DENNY T ,16CM HOUSING, 60MM GILLETT, VE MAXED,BHAF, BHFF, 366 SPRING,P/S INTERCOOLER, TIMS COOLER TUBS, TIMMING 1/8 BUMP,4in TURBO BACK TO DUEL 5IN STACKS,33 12.50 BFG, HOLLEY BLACK, CONVERTER COOMING.
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Re: Adjust your Bands, shift points, and line pressure (pics)

Postby DZL_Damon » Tue Apr 13, 2010 9:07 pm

So sorry gents, just checked this again. It's the one next to the line pressure adjustment with the blue threadlock. NO MORE THAN 2 Turns in from stock. (someone told me no less than 0.800", I assume this is how much it's sticking out). I'm guessing something bad can bind up, you've been warned. I did 1 turn, and wish I did 1.5 or more cause it helped my early shifting quite a bit!

Here is is:
Image
-93 W350,CC, DRW, A518, Pump maxed, DDP3, DennyT, 4" DP, black muffler stack with flapper. HE351cw, CoolerTubz, PS I/C, 4601HP elec. fuel pump, 205k
-89 D250, clean utility bed, TF727, new IP, 76k
-09 VW TDI 2.0L CR, ~45mpg, 20k
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Re: Adjust your Bands, shift points, and line pressure (pics)

Postby slow_90firebird » Sat Aug 21, 2010 5:20 am

Hey man just found this post and have been looking for a while for something like this! Just a quick question though - what does the screw with the blue loctite actually do?? You mentioned it is "shift points" but thats it.

I understand what upping the line pressure does, i want to bump mine a little. But I also (correct me if im worng) understand that upping the line pressure will delay part throttle shifting because you have to wait for the gov. pressure to overcome the line pressure to command a shift.

I am pretty happy where the truck shifts now, just want to firm it up and make it snappier.
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Re: Adjust your Bands, shift points, and line pressure (pics)

Postby matchew » Sat Aug 21, 2010 1:33 pm

Yes, please explain the 2 adjustments made inside the tranny (3/16" screws)....now I'm kinda confused too. Got a new to me a518 coming and want to do this also.
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Re: Adjust your Bands, shift points, and line pressure (pics)

Postby Sutter1stgen » Mon Oct 15, 2012 3:18 pm

I was wondering if the line pressure adjustment would increase my shift speed for the 2-3 shift? Just trying to fine tune my wot shift point for my 2-3 shift. Thanks
Eric

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Re: Adjust your Bands, shift points, and line pressure (pics)

Postby Mckinney » Tue Dec 10, 2013 3:22 am

I'm also curious on what exactly these adjustments do. I'm a total noob when it comes to transmissions so a very basic explanation would be great.
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Re: Adjust your Bands, shift points, and line pressure (pics)

Postby cmann250 » Tue Dec 10, 2013 5:57 am

Front screw- line pressure. Applies more pressure to the clutches inside. Results in firmer shifts and less clutch slippage.
Rear screw- I interpret it as governor pressure. Delays shifts across the board.
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Re: Adjust your Bands, shift points, and line pressure (pics)

Postby directinjktn1stgen » Fri Aug 29, 2014 5:47 pm

i just want to clear this information up, front 3/16 screw is how many turns in which direction? Then the rear 3/16 screw is how many turns in which direction?
1992 w250 4x4 4" custom turbo back exhaust 5x.012 HVLP lift pump 3200 181/210 M3 fuel pin, gated hx35 auto important meters
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Re: Adjust your Bands, shift points, and line pressure (pics)

Postby cmann250 » Sat Aug 30, 2014 6:22 am

Front screw-line pressure-turn it CCW.
Rear screw-tv cable slack- turn it CW.

How many turns is up to you. It's a fine tuning thing.
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Re: Adjust your Bands, shift points, and line pressure (pics)

Postby b4autodark » Tue Apr 19, 2016 4:52 am

Great pics and explanation, thanks for taking the time to do this.
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