@ Andy: You really need traction. Once you get it, you may very well find out how strong the trans shaft(s) are.
It's been my experience that boosted launches find weak links. It seems 10psig is a comfortable max for the stock-shaft trans.
As far as shift-points: If you guys have recent dyno plots, look at you torque curve and try to have the next gear landing just before the torque peak (watch your tach while practicing passes).
DON'T build "Launch Boost" and hold it there while the dumbass next to you does his Ostrich dance chit. You only flash-heat the fluid in the converter, making it thinner, so it then doesn't hook as hard.
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It's my experience that another 100* hotter trans fluid makes a HUGE difference in the ET, especially in the 1st 300 feet. To the tune of .10 of a second in the 8th, in my mess.
- With no slicks (running street tires), and if you can, drive around the water-box keeping the tires dry. (I have no experience with slicks).
- Go ahead and creep into the first beam (shallow-staged), pump-up your brakes so as to have a good grip and wait for dumbass.
Have your brakes pumped-up GOOD!**- Let dumbass go ahead and fully stage.
- As soon as dumbass is fully staged, with the brakes held firmly, quickly build to launch-boost and creep into the next beam (again, shallow-staged). Be quick with this as you might red-light by taking too long (pending how the tree operator has things set. You may have a few seconds).
- I usually let fly halfway through the third yellow. The shallow-staging helps in this case . . . . for me anyway.
If you didn't do it at the dyno, set your WOT timing (with the KSB ON, if you do that) based on the ET improvement.
If you haven't, fix the danged AFC (lean is mean
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
).
** I say pump the brakes good cause 25psig launch-boost may push through the brakes.
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