What should I do?

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What should I do?

Postby STEvil » Sun Sep 08, 2013 11:57 pm

Hi :)

I've got a 1990 ve non-ic truck that I use for mud bogging and i'm looking to increase my power over time. You know, budget contraints and all ;)

What is the cheapest (hah) route? I'd like to run about 4,000 rpm, maybe more but not likely.. so probably tougher valve springs (#150 titanium or is #60 enough? i've heard of the retainers weakening on the #60'ers), head bolts, injectors (or nozzles?? - http://www.dynomitediesel.com/#!dodge-i ... shop/c1w6m), some air flow plumbing, methanol/propane/nitrous?..

Currently all i've done to the motor is turn the smoke screw and full power screw.

Here's some videos of the truck in its current form, though i've got a larger set of tires for it now (14.9x24 rather than the 12.5x22.5's in the videos). Just need to change the front u-joint as I keep breaking it since its so small (!!!)

Any help appreciated, thanks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_aMSpcV ... F3F131DF47
STEvil
smoke screw?
 
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Re: What should I do?

Postby Tacoclaw » Mon Sep 09, 2013 3:01 am

Here's a good start, since you're looking for RPMs moving the throttle linkage to the inner bolt and taking all the slack out of your cable will be a good bandaid until you actually crack the pump open.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=12300&hilit=Zero+buck


A lift pump will be needed, though you seem to be keeping smoke throughout the run it may just be the pump timing going retarded from lack of supply.
1990 W250 4x4
Rattles, growls, whistles, and whines.
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Tacoclaw
14mm rotor
 
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Re: What should I do?

Postby STEvil » Mon Sep 09, 2013 2:13 pm

Awesome info, thanks! I wouldnt doubt that i'm running a bit short on fuel.

Has anyone tried running lift pumps in series or parallel?
STEvil
smoke screw?
 
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Re: What should I do?

Postby Tacoclaw » Mon Sep 09, 2013 2:32 pm

There's only one boss on the block for a mechanical, if that's what you're asking. People have run an electric pump pre-mechanical on trucks, back towards the tank to help push fuel to it, but IMO it's kind of a waste to keep the diaphragm pump around. If it fails and ruptures you'll have an electric pump dumping its full capacity into your crankcase until you kill power to it. No way to know until your oil pressure drops or you notice oil flowing out of your draft tube.
1990 W250 4x4
Rattles, growls, whistles, and whines.
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Tacoclaw
14mm rotor
 
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Re: What should I do?

Postby STEvil » Tue Sep 10, 2013 2:27 pm

Yeah, that was my intention, to run electrical pumps and remove the stock one.

Whats up with the transmission cooler lines snaking all over? I have a leak on one that i've temporarily fixed with fuel hose until I know if its safe to unhook them from the side of the block on the passenger side.
STEvil
smoke screw?
 
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Re: What should I do?

Postby Tacoclaw » Tue Sep 10, 2013 6:11 pm

Ehhhhh, for racing I'm not sure the liquid heat exchanger is really needed. If you spend much time on the line spooling off the brake then it may help take the brunt of the heat but in a quick, 15-40 second run it won't matter much anyways. You can bypass it and just run it up to the one in the grill.

The liquid one may seem more efficient, but you need to have your engine up to operating temp anytime you run it that hard so it'll never drop temps below ~180*.
1990 W250 4x4
Rattles, growls, whistles, and whines.
User avatar
Tacoclaw
14mm rotor
 
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Re: What should I do?

Postby STEvil » Tue Sep 10, 2013 10:15 pm

I try not to spool too long, tranny has had enough beating over the last 400,000km of its life as is lol.
STEvil
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